Electrical

Chappy · 04-09-2017, 08:05 PM

Anybody help me figure out why my 12 volt battery isn't charging when plugged into 30 amp service on my Redhawks 29xk? House Lights go dim after awhile but TV works outlet plugs power cell phone chargers etc. start vehicle engine and lights brighten refergerator light works again and furnace will operate. Unit is a 2017 only 7 months old and being used for 2nd trip.

Robbbyr · 04-09-2017, 08:10 PM

It sounds like your converter is not working. Could be a breaker in your power panel that is tripped/off, the converter is fed 120-volts and then changes it to 12-volts to charge the coach battery and feed the 12-volt systems.

Also could be blown 12-volt fuses through which the converter uses as part of its system to send 12-volts to the coach battery or batteries.

Chappy · 04-09-2017, 08:31 PM

Thx for info. I checked breaker and none are tripped . Will have to check fuses next . Do I have to check one by one?

Robbbyr · 04-09-2017, 08:39 PM

The individual 15 or 20-amp fuses that feed circuits likes lights, water pump, etc. are likely not the issue. Many units have one or more large fuses (25-amp or higher) that serve to protect the converter from wiring issues. I would check those if you can identify them.

If you are able to identify the exact 120-volt breaker that feeds the converter try to cycle it all the way off then back on. Sometimes they can trip without looking tripped.

Could be a bad converter too, they sometimes do just fail.

Wrascal · 04-09-2017, 08:48 PM

I'm no expert but I would suggest removing the battery and connecting it to a regular car charger. It just may be your battery is bad and can't store a charge.

GrayHawk51 · 04-09-2017, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wrascal

I'm no expert but I would suggest removing the battery and connecting it to a regular car charger. It just may be your battery is bad and can't store a charge.

That's a double check. Had a similar problem and ended up being that the house battery was dry. I was lucky that I didn't burn the cells. filled up with distilled water and all is good.

Also, remember, when not in use, turn off amp button that powers the TV signal. It will drain battery.

tdcoody · 04-10-2017, 07:01 AM

I need help understanding batteries in my RV. Looking to install new batteries in my 5th wheel. I asked my service technician to install two 12 volt batteries wired in parallel. He mentioned I would get more amp/hrs if I install 6 volt batteries in series.
I was taught that if you wire battteries in parallel, voltage stayed the same but current doubled. If you wire batteries in series, voltage doubles current stays the same.
What am I missing? Why would it make sense to place batteries in series to increase amp/hrs?

Tim

sennister · 04-10-2017, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdcoody

I need help understanding batteries in my RV. Looking to install new batteries in my 5th wheel. I asked my service technician to install two 12 volt batteries wired in parallel. He mentioned I would get more amp/hrs if I install 6 volt batteries in series.
I was taught that if you wire battteries in parallel, voltage stayed the same but current doubled. If you wire batteries in series, voltage doubles current stays the same.
What am I missing? Why would it make sense to place batteries in series to increase amp/hrs?

Tim

It is a capacity thing. Look at the AH rating on a pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries compared to a pair of 12v. Another thing you have to watch is a lot of times a 12V deep cycle is just a sticker on a regular battery. There isn't much difference. The Golf cart batteries are more industrial and have much thicker lead plates. They are more expensive and heavy but will last longer with maint.

Your thinking is right but you are not doing a current application you are doing sustained load for a longer period if boondocking. I guess that is another thing to consider. How do you camp. If you rarely boondock and only go to full hookups, then it doesn't make any sense. Just go with a single 12V because it doesn't matter and it is just additional weight. If you boondock and are going to run a generator anyhow because you want AC, TV and Microwave. Go with a single 12V and save weight as you will be charging the 12V every time you fire up the generator. If you run for days on end without a generator or hookups then look at a dual 6v system.

I was considering this very thing. Do I go dual 6V or dual 12V in my camper. Well the more I thought about it, we boondock but plan on taking a generator. I would rather mount the generator to the A frame of our camper but weight will be an issue. I might as well save the weight of a dual 12V or dual 6V setup so I can put the generator there because we will be running the generator at least a bit everyday so a single 12V is plenty for my needs capacity wise.

bansai · 04-10-2017, 08:57 AM

One other consideration, for us anyway - was matching the amp hour rating of the batteries we're planning on getting with the capability of the solar panels we are installing to *fully* charge them in a reasonable period (1 day).

I've seen people install over 200 amp hours of battery capacity, and they are very dissapointed when they discover that their 100 watt solar system will *never* come close to charging their batteries. These 'partial' charges are not ideal for many reasons. First, they ended up spending a lot of money on capacity they cannot use, second, these wimpy recharge cycles reduces the life of your battery system. These things are only good for so many cycles.

If Solar is in your future, you'll want to factor that into your plans now, so you end up with a battery system that is well matched to your solar generating capacity.

Thread is veering off course a little, but just wanted to piggy back on some of the other replies.

jott56 · 04-10-2017, 11:11 PM

My 2017 23X2 wouldn't hold a charge from the get go. I nursed it through the winter by keeping it plugged in, in one week intervals, taking it for drives and exercising the generator. Monitored it with a meter almost daily. Dropped it off at the dealer last month ( same dealer as you I assume) and they monitored it for a week to look for any unusual parasitic draws. Eventually they determined there was a dead cell in the Harris battery. Replaced it with an Interstate. I'm keeping a close eye on the new batteries performance.

jott56 · 04-10-2017, 11:21 PM

P.S I had no low voltage issues when plugged in.

herewego · 04-11-2017, 04:54 AM

Go to Home depot and buy yourself a Volt/ohm meter.....than check the leads going to the battery ,Take leads off to do this ,see if you have over 12 volts going to the battery, that's DC voltage not a/c ....

Robbbyr · 04-11-2017, 09:26 AM

Chappy - Any resolution to your issue yet?

4468461 · 04-12-2017, 07:56 AM

We have recently purchased a 2007 Jayco Melbourne and can't get DC power on.

When filling up propane I hit the battery disconnect rocker switch so that no power was on while filling. When we got to new site...nothing came on but the plugs, convection oven, TV....when I would hold the disconnect switch on all the power would come on, so I thought the switch was bad, not realizing it was a rocker type and didn't click on and off. Went to auto parts store and got a on & off switch (not rocker type) it worked and all power came on. Next day went off again except plugs, tv, confection oven....went and got a rocker type switch...still no power....repair guy came and everywhere showed power including breakers, fuses, solenoid near battery and the converter only place no power was at the switch....so we assume there is a disconnect between switch and battery and it is locked in disconnect mode for battery power. When generator is on the same only plug power. No battery power, but 120 from power pole. So we don't know where else to check, etc.
Fuses ? Any suggestions would be helpful.

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