Jayco RV Owners Forum

Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-25-2014, 03:55 PM   #1
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Springfield
Posts: 2
Electrical Problem

I have a 2004 Greyhawk 25DS
Lately when I am dry camping the battery goes from fully charged to dead in ~9hrs. I think a wire is shorting out on the frame. In my driveway it holds its charge for 3-4 days. I bought a new battery. I have tried to position the RV a couple of different ways and different angles. I have checked it with the slide in and out, with the fridge running or not. anyone have anything similar happen??? I am running out of ideas and its driving me crazy.

probilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2014, 04:11 PM   #2
Senior Member
mcfarmall's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, West Michigan
Posts: 1,815
Welcome to the forum! Could it be due to the fact that you're using power when camping and not using power when it's parked in your driveway? I'm not trying to be a smartypants but if there was a wire shorted to ground (frame) it would blow a fuse.

2006 23B Hybrid with 10k round bar WDH
2011 F150 4x4 SCREW Ecoboost, Max Tow, Integrated TBC, 3.73 LS axle, Firestone Ride Rite airbags.
mcfarmall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2014, 04:31 PM   #3
Senior Member
RoyBraddy's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: King George
Posts: 2,124
I am assuming you are camping off the power grid here... No Shore Power connected...

Most folks that camp off the power grid usually have a couple of batteries on-board with a AH rating of around 220AHs.

Only a few big things that really draw alot of battery current is Incandescent automotive type lights, furnace blower, and any POWER INVERTER you may have that generates 120VAC to operate some of the 120VAC Appliances. All of these items pull power from your Battery setup.

Each Incandescent type automotive bulb will draw around 1AMP each.
The Furnace Blower will draw around 5-6AMPS when running.
The Power Inverter (Not your Converter) will draw alot of DC CURRENT depending how big it is. If it is a 2000WATT Inverter it could draw 180AMPS DC CURRENT when fully loaded.

Need some more info of what you are doing I guess...

Roy Ken
Roy and Carolyn
I claim Horse Creek Country in Southern Ill - Momabear is from North Texas
We live in King George VA

"We're burning daylight" - John Wayne
2008 STARCRAFT 14RT OFF-ROAD POPUP with PD9260C and three 85AH 12VDC batteries
2010 F150 FX4 5.4 GAS with 3.73 gears - Super Cab - Towing Package - 2KW Honda EU2000i Gen
K9PHT (since 1957) 146.52Mhz
"We always have a PLAN B"
RoyBraddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2014, 01:04 PM   #4
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Springfield
Posts: 2

I am camping off the grid with no shore power. This happens at night or during the day. The only thing consistently on is the fridge. We don't have a power inverter. A short that is not direct (i.e. high impedance) would not necessarily blow a fuse (this is a low voltage, 12V, system).

We are trying to figure out what is different from Dry Camping and the driveway.

The slide has a fridge, closet and the dinette.

One possibility is weight in the slide, since there is no food in the fridge and no clothes in the closet, and no beer under the dinette.

Any other ideas?
probilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2014, 01:41 PM   #5
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 924
Battery connections? Easy to check the voltage at the post and then at the other end of the wire.
How old is the battery? Battery could be sulfated from age.
No man has a good enough memory to be a successful liar. Abraham Lincoln

2016 36FBTS Pinnacle
2016 F350, 6.7, 4x4, DRW, long bed
B & W Companion 5th wheel Hitch
eldermike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2014, 09:45 PM   #6
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 60
I strongly recommend you install a battery monitor that displays your voltage, current draw, and total amp hours used. Without a monitor, you have no idea what is going on; with one, you can quickly determine what's using up your battery and keep track of it's charging.

Short term, you could buy a clamp-on DC ammeter from Sears for $60, and use that to check the current periodically.
Eric6A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2014, 08:41 PM   #7
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 123
A monitor that would do all that is great, but if it does amps, I assume it'd need to be in the "middle" of everything with a fairly thick gauge wire.

You do need an amp meter to tell you what is discharging your system. A simple 20A DC amp meter will likely work if you're discharging in a days time. <$30 tool on Amazon.

Without that amp meter, we can guess all day long.. And there are some good guesses above (inverter, fridge, other power) - but no way to tell. Unlikely something is shorting to ground - that usually blows a fuse or starts a fire.
cb1000rider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2014, 09:55 PM   #8
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 60
A clamp on DC ammeter is invaluable for chasing RV battery problems - and many other uses. This is the kind of device I'm talking about:


$40 from Amazon. There are many similar units available on Amazon and elsewhere, and even Sears sells a decent one in $50 range. I have a Sears unit, and one other, older one with fewer features.
Eric6A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2014, 10:26 AM   #9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 123
Clamp on would be easier.. I actually didn't know that they worked for DC, but they do.
cb1000rider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2014, 02:30 PM   #10
Senior Member
Mustang65's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL area
Posts: 2,391
Is your battery getting fully charged? If it is not getting fully charged, it will discharge in no time at all. Are all the connections clean and tight?

A clamp meter will do fine. First place to check with the meter is the main feed from the battery to the controller. Then pull the fuse and see if the drain disappears, which would mean that the drain is toward controller. If the drain remains then you have something connected directly to the battery that is discharging it.

If the drain is toward the controller, you need to do is pull all your 12VDC fuses on the charge controller and reinstall them one at a time while monitoring the clamp meter. One of the fuses should show a large drain. Then look at the Jayco wiring diagram for your RV and try to determine what circuit has the drain on it.

Good Luck


2013 Jayco Eagle 284BHS
250Watt Grape Solar Panel, MorningStar MPPT 60 Charge Controller
1500 Watt Ramsond PSI, 2 Trojan T145 Batteries (260Ah)
2 - AirSight Wireless IP Cameras (used as rear view cameras)
EnGenius WI-FI extender, D-Link wireless (n) modem
MagicJack Internet Phone
2012 Ford F150XLT, EcoBoost w/3.73
157" Wheel base, HD Towing Package

Our Solar Album http://www.jaycoowners.com/album.php?albumid=329
Mustang65 is offline   Reply With Quote

battery, electrical problem, electrical system, wiring

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

» Virginia State Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:20 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.