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Old 07-18-2016, 05:47 PM   #11
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Tried to attach the Fridge-fix instructions but the file is too large. The instructions state to splice into the red wire that goes to the control board. Not the large high voltage wire, but the smaller wire that's right next to another wire going to the board. If you would like a copy of the instructions I'll have to email them to you. You can private message me with your email address if you'd like them.

Yes, the fan light will be on when the fan is running. LEDs don't generate enough heat to be a concern.
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Old 07-18-2016, 06:08 PM   #12
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I too have the Fridge Fix and love it. Like hoppers4 I too ran the power wire down the drain line into the rear exterior area. I made a slight modification here, I went to an auto parts store and purchased a plastic vacuum line "tee" and run the power wire out of the short leg of the tee letting the original drain line run down into the cup.

My Fridge Fix came with a wire "tap" that I used to tie into the main power wire leading to the fridge's power module. If I remember correctly the connection on the module was even marked "12-volt +", or something like that making it easy to identify the correct wire. And like mentioned earlier, the ground connection is a clip in the fridge that attached to the metal fins near the fan assembly.

My Fridge Fix fans and lights can be turned on and off on the Fridge Fix unit itself by a small toggle switch. Whenever I turn on fridge, I turn on the fan/lights. If I were to accidentally leave the Fridge Fix switch on, it will shut down anyway whenever I shut off my coach master power switch, that kills all the power going to the fridge anyway.
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Old 07-18-2016, 07:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbbyr View Post
My Fridge Fix fans and lights can be turned on and off on the Fridge Fix unit itself by a small toggle switch. Whenever I turn on fridge, I turn on the fan/lights. If I were to accidentally leave the Fridge Fix switch on, it will shut down anyway whenever I shut off my coach master power switch, that kills all the power going to the fridge anyway.
You don't have to worry about accidentally leaving the Fridge Fix fan on as it's wired to the fridge control board. When you turn off the fridge the fan power goes with it . I don't bother with the switch on the Fridge Fix.
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Old 07-19-2016, 09:22 AM   #14
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Allrighty then,

I pulled off the outside access panel to the Norcold N811... There are only 3 red wires. One is a large (115v) red wire, and 2 are small 12v wires. The problem is, both of the small wires go to the exhaust stack, and I presume, are for the temperature sensor.

I just don't see any other hot wires to use.

Help!
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Old 07-19-2016, 12:48 PM   #15
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Those two red wires you see should lead to the control board on the other end. If they disappear out of sight, I'm at a loss. Not trying to be a wise acre, but are sure you're looking at the back of the fridge and not the water heater?
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:13 PM   #16
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I bought a frig fan on Amazon that uses 1 D battery. It lasts about 3-4 months and has a switch to turn it off when not in use. I don't have the part number but a search on Amazon will find it.
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Old 07-20-2016, 06:54 PM   #17
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The manufacturer suggests that if the power wire would cause the drain tube to stop up, to drill a small hole from the back of the fridge, into the inside of the fridge, to one side or the other of the cooling fins.

Has anyone tried that?
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Old 07-20-2016, 07:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
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The manufacturer suggests that if the power wire would cause the drain tube to stop up, to drill a small hole from the back of the fridge, into the inside of the fridge, to one side or the other of the cooling fins.

Has anyone tried that?
I did that on our old pop-up. A small hole in the plastic to run the wires, sealed up again with caulking when it was done. I measured many many times to make sure that I wasn't going to drill into any part of the cooling unit. A small computer fan and another larger one in the back to exhaust the heat, both wired to the same switch and into the 12 volt supply. Each fan drew less than half an amp.

On our hybrid, I wired just one fan into the power supply for the light switch, right before the switch itself, so it was on whenever the fridge was turned on. And it wasn't permanent, so I just removed it when the trailer was traded in.

I haven't done anything with our current trailer; the fridge cools just fine the way it is, IMHO.
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