Grayhawk A/C What The !!!!

[katiedog]

Our 2016 with Mach 3 A/C has never had good A/C flow to the ducts and last trip
out air was almost nil!!
I took off the cover on the roof unit and removed the box off the front of unit and found a large piece of hard backed insulation blocking the vent and air return.
Turns out to be a duct diverter to be installed by the MFG.
I firmly glued and Duct taped it between the air return and cold box ..
Yee ha we have air going through out coach.
There was no evidence of any effort to by Jayco to fit this with anything but
friction so I bet there are more units out there with a similar issue.
Happy Travels

[Larry Mac]

smh, but good to know


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[t18skyguy]

I have yet to try out my 2017, so that's a good tip that might help a lot of us.
Thanks for that

[stillwater]

Same here..

[BigJohnD]

Should be a small metal strip / track on the bottom of that piece with 4 screws holding it to the inner frame piece, at least on the Mach 15. Even then, friction mostly holds the foam piece there. Gotta have it or no worky. What you did is a good thing. Better the seal there better the efficiency.

[Jopopsy]

My foam block has been shifting around, allowing cold return air to get sucked back into the intake. From there it trips the frost sensor and my compressor cycles on and off for hours on end until I realize its doing it.

Next project - yep. Tape that sucker in place somehow so it doesn't shift. And bring a roll of aluminum tape w/ me for the next trip in case I didn't get it right.

[pconroy]

It took me three tries to finally fix it on ours. Even duct tape (3M!) wouldn't hold on ours. Finally - being a woodworker, I took some light pine and built a little support backer. There's three pieces of pine in an "I" shape wedged behind the baffle that keeps it from shifting.



Whomever at Jayco thought "Just jam it in there and call it good..." needs a size 12 in their tuckus...

[BullDozerBob]

Jayco should have someone in Customer Service reading this Forum. Owners seem to be fixing too many failures-I know I have.
BullDozerBob

[katiedog]

Oh Boy
Didnt think some many people had the same problem.
Wonder if I can check the baffle from the inside through the filter area.
I used aluminum tape and duct tape.
Maybe glue and screws are needed!!
I have had RVs since 1976, The greyhawk is the first new one ever,
Doing all the repairs just like on all the others since wait times are forever at the dealer and I can do most myself. Wonder what the Warranty is for??

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by katiedog

Wonder if I can check the baffle from the inside through the filter area.

That's what I did.

Drop the white cover off from inside. I think it was 4 screws (maybe 6) and you've got access to the baffle.

Maybe yours will hold with duct tape.

[t18skyguy]

If someone could post a picture of that sometime I'd love to see it.

[BigJohnD]

I'll post one tomorrow if someone doesn't beat me to it. Gonna put a solid piece in its place secured to the framing.

[Jopopsy]

I'd like to see this too.

[BigJohnD]

Here you go. First picture still has that little track / keeper piece with 4 screws, second picture that's been removed.

[t18skyguy]

Thank you Bigjohn, that pic makes it all understandable.

[Jopopsy]

My rig goes in for service on Monday. I added this to the list. Lets see what they do.

[t18skyguy]

I just came in from removing the inside cover of my 2 AC units on my 2017 31fs. There was no metal track on the bottom, but there is two plastic slots molded into the cover where you might think the baffle would be supported. However, those slots cannot be used because the ducts do not come out evenly at the top, so the baffle has to sit at an angle. What I did was use metal tape at the top to secure it as best as possible. So I'll see what happens. The rear air conditioner is set up a little differently, but the baffle is there and used metal tape the same. Will take more drastic action if the need calls.

[Ljnasa]

Originally Posted by t18skyguy

I just came in from removing the inside cover of my 2 AC units on my 2017 31fs. There was no metal track on the bottom, but there is two plastic slots molded into the cover where you might think the baffle would be supported. However, those slots cannot be used because the ducts do not come out evenly at the top, so the baffle has to sit at an angle. What I did was use metal tape at the top to secure it as best as possible. So I'll see what happens. The rear air conditioner is set up a little differently, but the baffle is there and used metal tape the same. Will take more drastic action if the need calls.

I have a2017 gray hawk Ds with 2 a/c units, I
ran the both at night on out last trip , both kept cycling on and off every 10 min. Or so all night. Should I not run the both at night , maybe just run the one in the bedroom .

Thanks for any advice.

[t18skyguy]

Ljnasa, I've only had my Greyhawk about a month and haven't even used the air conditioners yet. But I wanted to try and solve the problem beforehand. I can see that the comment made about the air blowing on the thermostat is an issue I think. Maybe divert the ceiling ducts away from that area might be some help.

[katiedog]

Had the Grayhawk at the track last weekend. A/C seemed to be much better
since we fixed the baffle.
I also wrapped the outside metal box with Reflectix foil film as per other post
on the forum.
I also cover all the seams while the cover was off