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Old 10-07-2016, 04:38 PM   #1
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Greyhawk 29me

we have a new greyhawk 29me that ended up with zero electric - battery or shore power. We have since purchased a new battery because the new motor home came with a two year old battery. When we installed it there was nothing. It went to a independent repair shop and traced the first problem to a wire nut that separated at the junction under the kitchen sink. We now have shore power. Second, he could not get power by hooking the battery back up. Now we do not know which wires should be on which positive or negative posts. Does anyone have access for a picture or to be able to tell us exactly which ones go where. One heavy duty in corragated tubing we thought was neg, but the inside wire is red. One harness with four wires that end in three battery attachments that we thought were positive. One wire has a white tape circle on it. The repairman does not think that is correct. (We have also done such things as bypassing the solenoid also). Thank you
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Old 10-07-2016, 05:01 PM   #2
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It might be in the best interest of the motorhome to take it to a Jayco dealer for repair or a reputable RV dealership.
If the 12 volt or 120 volt systems including battery, solenoid, converter, inverter, generator, microwave, fridge, lighting, or the vehicle's electrical system are damaged by a person with lack of knowledge, who will be responsible and more importantly have to pay for additional repairs.
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Old 10-07-2016, 05:50 PM   #3
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it was an authorized repair company paid by Jayco warranty, but now not completely finished
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Old 10-07-2016, 07:11 PM   #4
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I think they or someone ought to be calling Jayco and getting a wiring schematic and letting someone that knows how to read them go to work.
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Old 10-22-2016, 09:41 AM   #5
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Attached are a photo of the coach battery correctly installed as well as a wiring diagram for the battery.
Note that the battery in ours when delivered six weeks ago was incorrectly wired (and the battery had a bad cell) with the cable enclosed by the plastic corrugated cover on the negative terminal. It is, in fact, the positive lead that goes to the 100 amp fuse/breaker mounted behind the battery.
The correct negative cable should have a piece of white electrical tape wrapped around, maybe 10-12 inches back from the end of the cable.
I hope this helps.

BTW, when the replacement battery was correctly installed it caused a failure of the stabilizers. It is now back at the dealer for that to be diagnosed and repaired.

Jim
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Old 10-25-2016, 04:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim&Laura View Post
Attached are a photo of the coach battery correctly installed as well as a wiring diagram for the battery.
Note that the battery in ours when delivered six weeks ago was incorrectly wired (and the battery had a bad cell) with the cable enclosed by the plastic corrugated cover on the negative terminal. It is, in fact, the positive lead that goes to the 100 amp fuse/breaker mounted behind the battery.
The correct negative cable should have a piece of white electrical tape wrapped around, maybe 10-12 inches back from the end of the cable.
I hope this helps.

BTW, when the replacement battery was correctly installed it caused a failure of the stabilizers. It is now back at the dealer for that to be diagnosed and repaired.

Jim
Hey where did you find that wiring diagram? I would like to find one for a 2017 Greyhawk 29MV
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Old 10-25-2016, 08:43 AM   #7
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I sent a request to Jayco at Customer Service | RV Manufacturer | Jayco, Inc. and they sent the wiring diagram a couple days later.

Jim
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Old 10-26-2016, 01:51 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Jim&Laura View Post
I sent a request to Jayco at Customer Service | RV Manufacturer | Jayco, Inc. and they sent the wiring diagram a couple days later.

Jim
awesome thanks Jim I have sent them a request for a diagram for my model.
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Old 11-26-2016, 12:20 AM   #9
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Can you put two batteries in the coach so that the invertor will power a cPAP machine all night long with out shore power or generator power? Will just the one supplied battery work?
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:48 AM   #10
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I have the same question. Thinking now that just one new group 27 Interstate battery that is fully charged should be able to get me through the night with my c-pap and small inverter feeding it power. Considering that I have a 4000W generator on the coach to back up possibility of a low battery in the morning...it should work. Will try that out when vacation time rolls around next spring but somebody on the forum should already know.
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Old 11-27-2016, 05:54 PM   #11
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If you want to run a C-pap I suggest a more energy efficient method. Check to see if your C-pap can run directly on 12v. I had to buy a 12v cord for mine. Some C-paps can run on 12v. Mine is a Phillips Respironics System One. I installed a 12v fused outlet in my bedroom direct to the battery (batteries). So instead of converting 12v to 110v thru an inverter and then back to 12v (C-paps that can run on 12v) you just run the machine on 12v. When you do this you can't run the humidifier or heated hose. On one 12v battery I don't think you could run an inverter with the humidifier and heated hose all night anyway. In my MH, I installed 2 6v golf cart batteries so I have no problem. Now my wife is getting a C-pap also so I need to install a second 12v outlet. I hope the 2 6v batteries will be enough.
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Old 11-27-2016, 11:20 PM   #12
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One battery for CPAP

If you don't use a humidifier or heated hose, you will definitely get through at least one night on a group 27. My wife and I both use CPAP and get through the night with a group 27. We recharge each morning. We both use 12v direct, no inverter.
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Old 11-27-2016, 11:22 PM   #13
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C-pap Machine when Boondocking

My c-pap is a ResMed AirSense 10 Elite which is 24V and not a 12V. It does not include an accessory like that at this time which is workable. Trying to avoid running my MH generator all night if you know what I mean. This is why I am thinking about using a small portable 200W inverter providing me with power plugged into my Group 27 house battery. I don't use the heater or humidifier on the c-pap anyway so that may help. Here are my specs.....

90W power supply unit
AC input range: 100–240V, 50–60Hz 1.0–1.5A, Class II
115V, 400Hz 1.5A, Class II (nominal for aircraft use)
DC output: 24V 3.75A
Typical power consumption: 53W (57VA)
Peak power consumption: 104W (108VA)

Will my small inverter with the Group 27 house battery do the trick?
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