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Old 07-11-2016, 11:36 AM   #11
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The outside wrap-around cover for the cab windows makes a huge difference. Maybe as much as 50 degrees in the glass temp. That makes the inside cab an oven. Also, the reflective covers for windows helps also. Helps even more if they are on the outside, although that often entails placing velcro or something on the outside of the rig. Awnings help tremendously. Anything to keep that glass and surface temp cooler.
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Old 07-11-2016, 05:04 PM   #12
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We sometimes leave the 2 slides closed in the brutal western heat, Cheyenne, Wyoming is where we are right now. Cooling less area keeps it cooler inside. However, it's just the 2 of us and the pugs so we still have plenty of room.

We have the slides closed now as we have 40+ mph winds; the entrance door is an adventure to open.
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Old 07-11-2016, 09:38 PM   #13
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Another method I use to help keep some of the cab heat out of the coach is a "drape" hanging down from the cabover bunk isolating the cab. Despite having reflective window covers up front a large amount of heat still is created when the sun shines. The drape also works to help keep things warmer in the coach when winter camping.

On our current Seneca we used what was the original rear bedspread. Matches other items in the decor, and we use a RV Superbag on our bed and so the Jayco bedspread was rendered obsolete. But dear wife tailored it to fit (including ladder cutouts) and its original quilted construction does help insulate. Sticking one's head into the cab during the day confirms it!

I think it also makes the coach look less truck-like and more home-like. But that's just my opinion!
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Old 07-11-2016, 10:15 PM   #14
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Cool Freezon

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadester View Post
Makes you wonder, I had a 1995 Fleetwood Tioga 31' class C. Never had a issue keeping cool with one 13.5 BTU coleman. It had the rubber roof and, white carpeting stuff on the ceiling. But what about the freon changes over the years ?...maybe that's part of the difference?
I can tell you this much I am not positive about the R12 to R134a automotive freon differences, but I do know the "new R410" is less efficient than R22. That is right out of the textbook, (HVACR fundamentals by Carter Stanfield), R410 also removes less humidity from the air than R22. The modern manufacturers are using larger coils with R410 to try and compensate on home units. If MVR is using the same size coils with the different refrigerants there will be less cooling with the R410 units.

I had to replace my home heat pump my old carrier R22 unit gave up the ghost, my new unit has a higher SEER rating and does not cool as efficient as my old R22 unit.
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:20 AM   #15
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We agree with leaving the drape down on hot days. Our new 31xl was miserably hot. The fan would kick on but the cool air was minimal. When we finally heard enough about "this unit should have two air conditioners" or "it works the way it is supposed to"...we finally took it to Thermo King. Jayco approved the service and they replaced the probe, cleaned the vent of cottonwood and we were on our way. They also said, "Wow, that's a BIG air conditioning unit for this size rig." Our advice is keep looking for someone who knows what they are doing. We had it in three times before someone actually fixed it. It now could freeze us out even in the warmest weather.
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Old 07-30-2016, 08:13 AM   #16
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Here are 2 things that I have done to cool my Melbourne:
1) If traveling and the MH has been sitting in the hot sun for hours or days, I will crank on the generator and roof air conditioner. The interior cools down nicely with the engine AC running as well.
2) If in direct sun at a campsite and the "house" AC cannot do the job, I bring in all three of my slideouts. The reduced cubic footage makes a big difference. I have done this as well in really cold temps.
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:00 AM   #17
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My experience is this:


Any RV over 30 feet must have two AC's
All slides must have roll out covers (virtually no insulation on top of slides)
Cool the RV in the morning to 68 before the sun hits the walls and roof
Use vent covers over the lids and foam on the inside vents
Keep shades drawn and insulated aluminum behind the shades
Keep AC filters clean
Park in the shade if possible
Don't argue politics, it raises your body temperature
Use your awning when the winds are light
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:37 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by pconroy View Post
This thing is an oven.

If your AC is ducted, make sure all ducts are connected. Pull the inside cover on the AC and look in there to make sure. Could be that you"re losing some AC inside the roof. Put your hand up against all ceiling vents to make sure they're working. Our 35" Eagle stays cool with one 15k AC. If your AC isn't ducted, ignore this post.
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Old 08-01-2016, 08:02 AM   #19
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For the cab we use the heat shield brand window shades. They make a huge difference.
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Old 08-02-2016, 07:07 AM   #20
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1. Cut custom sun shades for your cab windows from that foil/bubble sheeting you can buy at Lowes/Home Depot in rolls. Do the same for every window in the coach.

2. Find the best winshield solar shade you can fit to cover the entire windshield area.

3. Cover the doghouse area with a thick blanket. This works in summer and winter to keep the heat/cold from the E450 cab up front.

4. During the day close the curtains to the top bunk over the cab. If no one is up there, dont waste the A/C on that space.

5. circulate air with fans on the floor. We use two during the summer, one up front, one in the back. Move the air around.

6. park in shade wherever possible. We position coach with fridge side away from sun in the evening.

I TOTALLY agree that Jayco should consider standard double a/c set ups for larger class c.
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