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05-08-2016, 06:50 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Welllington
Posts: 20
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Oil Change in a 2015 Seneca
Has anyone out there changed the oil in their Seneca? This is our first diesel and I have never changed oil in a diesel and was wondering how difficult it is compared to changing the oil in our previous gas powered motorhome which had the ford v-10. Thanks
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05-08-2016, 08:41 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Akron
Posts: 3,196
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Changing it on my former Ford V-10-equipped motorhome was somewhat easier due to easier access to the oil filter on the Ford. The filter on the Cummins is located on the passenger side of the engine and oil has a lot further to fall and splatters all over when the container is on the ground! Next time I will cover a much larger area with old newspapers! I also had to buy a larger drain pan due to the large oil capacity, but I knew that going in. I got a Hopkins 24 quart pan from Amazon. Mine took 18 quarts of Rotella to refill it right to the "full" line.
Be advised Cummins also recommends fuel filter changes at the same time you do the oil. And there are two, the primary and the secondary. Both located on the driver's side of the engine. Also a messy proposition!
I will change them again myself, next time I won't be so messy.
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Rob R.
Akron, OH
2014 Seneca 37TS
Toads: 2019 Ford Edge ST or 2013 Ford Focus ST
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05-09-2016, 01:17 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Welllington
Posts: 20
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Thank you. Sounds like a bit of a bigger job but in the long run will save some money.
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05-09-2016, 04:06 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Lafayette
Posts: 254
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I changed all of my filters in the driveway, but left the oil change to the local oil change experts that have a drive through large enough for RV's. I supplied the filter. As was mentioned, it was a task getting to the oil filter...and messy.
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Terry
N5QWA
2014 Jayco Seneca 37FS
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05-10-2016, 08:54 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Orange County
Posts: 644
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My 2006 Seneca is a different drivetrain and chassis, but still a diesel. Diesel oil is usually much much blacker with soot and carbon than oil from a gasser, and it stinks. But the biggest thing is the volume! Took 14 quarts to do the whole job, and I also used Rotella T6. Got a few drips on the driveway, so I'll dedicate a dropcloth to future oil changes and service work. I just put it on the jacks and slid a 5 gallon Home Depot bucket underneath. Works like a champ, and I just put the lid on it and delivered it to the local Auto Zone for reclaiming. Changed the filter while I was at it. Seemed like a waste not to do that for the extra 10 or 12 bucks anyway.
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2006 Jayco Seneca 34SS
2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Toad
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05-10-2016, 10:00 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Rochester
Posts: 109
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As a Cummings owner in my truck, the oil change is not that difficult. As stated, the amount and quality of the oil is different than a gasser but the steps are the same. One thing I will caution strongly, DO NOT use Fram oil filters or other aftermarket oil filters. Stick with Fleetguard, Mopar or Freightliner brand filters. Fram filters especially, have caused multiple engine failures. They do not hold up and come apart. I have links to these if someone feels the need for them. I do use Fram on other vehicles I have own and have owned without problems but they dropped the ball when it came to the Cummins.
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05-10-2016, 04:26 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Orange County
Posts: 644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wertles
As a Cummings owner in my truck, the oil change is not that difficult. As stated, the amount and quality of the oil is different than a gasser but the steps are the same. One thing I will caution strongly, DO NOT use Fram oil filters or other aftermarket oil filters. Stick with Fleetguard, Mopar or Freightliner brand filters. Fram filters especially, have caused multiple engine failures. They do not hold up and come apart. I have links to these if someone feels the need for them. I do use Fram on other vehicles I have own and have owned without problems but they dropped the ball when it came to the Cummins.
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Good insider information to know. On my Duramax, I ended up with a Mobil 1 filter, as it came highly recommended by some in the Kodiak/Duramax/Allison forum I joined. Not necessarily the same case with a Cummins, as you and the OP are using. I am also considering a 2 micron fuel filter for my chassis, as today's injectors are operating at such high pressures, it has now become critical to protect them to avoid costly premature repairs. I lived with a first-generation Duramax for 13 years in a pickup truck I recently sold, and I am convinced I avoided much more costly maintenance as a result. I have also learned that the Duramax is not overly picky about what oil is used, as long as it is good quality diesel-specific motor oil. I ended up choosing the Rotella T6 synthetic, which most seemingly-knowledgeable folks recommended, along with the Mobil 1 filter. Don't know if that's the case with Cummins, but that's a hell of a good engine you guys have there. Pays to protect it.
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2006 Jayco Seneca 34SS
2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Toad
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05-11-2016, 07:08 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Saskatoon Sask Canada
Posts: 10,714
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You will probably need a bigger oil pan for the cummins that you did for the V10
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Seann
2004 Chev Silverado Duramax optioned past the max. 2009 Jayco Eagle 308 RLS 900watts of solar, Lithium batteries (400amp hour), 2000 watt (4000 surge) whole house inverter.
145days boondockinig in2023 2022/151 2021[/COLOR]
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05-20-2016, 11:19 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 14
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I use a plastic shopping bag or a large zip lock back to slide over the oil/fuel filters to avoid the spillage. I have both the Cummins ISB and the Duramax diesels.
I've always used the best filter available, save $5-10 to pay BIG $$ because the filter failed?
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05-20-2016, 06:35 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Akron
Posts: 3,196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cactusogre
I use a plastic shopping bag or a large zip lock back to slide over the oil/fuel filters to avoid the spillage. I have both the Cummins ISB and the Duramax diesels.
I've always used the best filter available, save $5-10 to pay BIG $$ because the filter failed?
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What a simple yet effective solution to much of the mess! I will use it next change for sure. And I agree, a cheap filter is no bargain.
Thanks!
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Rob R.
Akron, OH
2014 Seneca 37TS
Toads: 2019 Ford Edge ST or 2013 Ford Focus ST
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06-01-2016, 07:20 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Canon City
Posts: 230
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At what mileage do you change your oil. My Cummins ISB manual says 3 different mileages. 8k for severe service, 10k for normal and 14k for RV service. 14k seems like a lot. Course I'm from the old school 3k for cars. But I know they go for 7k now with better oil and filters. 14k still seems like a long time. I'm thinking once a year no mater the miles. ???
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Buddy Brown
2016 Seneca HJ
2004 Wrangler
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06-01-2016, 07:24 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: DFW
Posts: 3,493
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I do my Cummins every 6 months regardless of mileage. I've had my Cummins since December '14. I'll have my 3rd oil change done this month and I have 11,021 miles on my TV.
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Dan
'24 GMC 2500 AT4X AEV Edition
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06-01-2016, 09:50 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 14
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I change my Duramax oil (RV) once a year regardless of mileage.
My Dodge pick up I do 10K, I use syntheic and factory filters in both.
Over the road fleets will run up to 50k with filter changes at 10k intervals, replacing only the oil lost in the filter.
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2008 Seneca 35TM
2011 CVO Ultra Classic
2014 Fatbob
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06-02-2016, 12:12 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Welllington
Posts: 20
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I spoke with a mechanic at a local diesel repair shop and he suggested every 7000 miles or once a year.
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06-05-2016, 11:39 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Kingman AZ and where our Seneca is today.
Posts: 3,114
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Our 2015 Seneca 36FK hit the 10k mile mark. the manual says it needs it's first service at that mileage... I asked a good friend who is a Service manager over fleet operations for a huge construction / trucking company - he says they charge $310 for heavy equipment and trucks. He said to call Freightliner to get their cost.
So - I called Freightliner of Utah (Warner Truck Centers) - They told me that because the Seneca is on the M2 chassis, we don't have to make our appointments as a Motorhome (they treat it as a fleet Truck) and we can just drop in anytime for a 2-hour express service. That's exactly what I did and they did everything - all of the filters, oil, coolant, inspection, scanned for recalls, Chassis Lube, Coolant test, Oil test... I mean everything... for $206.00 out the door.
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06-05-2016, 01:00 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Peachtree City
Posts: 1,130
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For a less messy oil change I would recommend a fluid extractor like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-F...rch_detailpage
You put a tube down the dip stick tube and pump the handle a couple of times. It automatically shuts off when full so you will need to empty at least once in the middle of your oil change with a typical deisel engine. To empty it just put the tube into an empty container flip a switch and pump the handle a couple more times. After my first time I used it I pulled the drain plug to see how much was left and about an ounce came out. Most deisel are easy to get to the drain plug but I didn't have a container large enough to drain into. That is where this comes in handy and also cars with all the pans and guards underneath that need to be removed for access or cars low to ground.
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