Parking pad ideas...

[vdubee]

Ok, please see the pics below. I'm currently parking my Greyhawk 31DS underneath the cover. I want to put gravel in to get it out of the dirt. I was hoping that you guys could give me some ideas on how to border the cover to hold in the gravel from the yard. Also, how thick should I go with the gravel and any smoothing or grading that may need to be done. Thanks for any help!!

[Wertles]

I used landscape timbers to keep my gravel away from my lawn. It has worked very well for two years and it was quite inexpensive. I secured them with two foot sections of half inch rebar into the ground and they haven't moved yet.

[vdubee]

Originally Posted by Wertles

I used landscape timbers to keep my gravel away from my lawn. It has worked very well for two years and it was quite inexpensive. I secured them with two foot sections of half inch rebar into the ground and they haven't moved yet.

Wertles, how thick did you go with your gravel?

[WDW]

Lowes has metal edging that would be easy and cost effective to install. Give the ground is solid and drains well, 2-5" would be good. I would look at crushed limestone as an option. It packs nice, looks pretty and becomes rock hard. Smarter builders may have better ideas.

[jimp]

I built an elevated pad for my GH 31ss last year, as the best spot in my yard was sloping and the guy brought two or three small dump truck loads of gravel in, the actual parking pad area is about 1" thick and the sides are a bit less. I think there is too much gravel at the very front of the pad as the gravel shifts very easy but has not caused any issues so far.

[robkelly]

We had a gravel driveway (with the exception of a parking pad now paved) and found that 1 1/2" - 2" deep with the gravel worked best. Too deep and it will take forever to pack down, and in the meantime you'll be creating deep ruts while driving on it, especially with a heavy vehicle.

We have gravel walkways and have found landscape timbers to be the best at keeping the stone in place.

[TWP723]

Use Bluestone driveway gravel about 3" deep. Bluestone is a universal drive stone used everywhere. It comes in different sizes but I'm not sure what they are. You really should use a base to keep the stone from sinking into the ground. Crush & run or stone dust tamped down very well. For the border, I'd use the plastic garden edge you can buy from the big name home improvement stores. Lanscape timbers attract insects (ants escpecially). I replaced all the landscape timbers around my gardens when I bought my current home and there were millions of ants colonized in them and nobody wants these pests in their RV. Also consider drainage and runoff. If needed, you can use a French drain. 6" perforated drain tile will work. These heavy beasts need support when parking them on earth. Even with 3 inches of stone, they'll continue to sink unless supported with a base. JM2C.

[Sundancer330]

The best material to use for a pad is crushed limestone about 3-4" deep. This is a self locking stone since its crushed and it will pack tight and not rut, if you use smooth natural stones they roll and do not lock which causes ruts as the tires pass over it.

[vdubee]

Do you guys think I need to do much dirt work? Would it be ok to just till up a few inches and level?

[Sundancer330]

The pictures show it being pretty level no need to till it, leave it compacted as is, will help with drainage as long as its not ponding after a rain now. I would just place the stone and crown it in the middle a bit so it drains properly.

[TWP723]

I'd just build on top. Remove or kill the grass first. Unless you don't mind grass and weeds coming through.

[Wyn]

I am considering building an enclosure similar to yours, how did you anchor it to the ground?

[jestew3]

I usually use CR-6 also called crush and run. Is is gravel mixed in with stone dust and when it's compacted it is very hard.

[vdubee]

Originally Posted by Wyn

I am considering building an enclosure similar to yours, how did you anchor it to the ground?

Wyn, the building came with 36 inch, I think, rebar stakes that I used to hammer into our Louisiana clay. Also, maybe a little weird, I purchased some of the metal strapping that they use down here to anchor mobile homes. Then I bought 6 hurricane ground anchors and attached the straps which go over 3 of the arches but under the roofing. Does that make sense?

[norty1]

I had one installed on the ground in my back yard. I was not happy with the re-bar anchor system due to being in a hurricane prone area. I spread the feet apart about 10 inches on each side, had a crew come in and build a form and pour a 4 inch slab. It was moved back up on the new slab and drilled holes thru the slab and put 3/8 inch galvanized bolts every 4 ft down the sides.

I ordered mine with side braces up near the top of every other down post.

I know it won't withstand a direct hit bu We have had some 60mph winds in the last 6 years that did not move it. The frame is not going anywhere.

[vdubee]

Originally Posted by norty1

I had one installed on the ground in my back yard. I was not happy with the re-bar anchor system due to being in a hurricane prone area. I spread the feet apart about 10 inches on each side, had a crew come in and build a form and pour a 4 inch slab. It was moved back up on the new slab and drilled holes thru the slab and put 3/8 inch galvanized bolts every 4 ft down the sides.

I ordered mine with side braces up near the top of every other down post.

I know it won't withstand a direct hit bu We have had some 60mph winds in the last 6 years that did not move it. The frame is not going anywhere.

Norty, thanks for the input. Your setup sounds very interesting.
A couple of questions:
How did you "spread" the feet out??
Also, if you don't mind me asking, how much was it to get the slabs done?
That is how I really wanted to do it.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by vdubee

Norty, thanks for the input. Your setup sounds very interesting.
A couple of questions:
How did you "spread" the feet out?? drove 4 of the re-bars in the inside of one sides rails, then used some metal poles to move the other side over 20 inches or a little less to allow for the forms.
Also, if you don't mind me asking, how much was it to get the slabs done? Concrete costs vary, I think it was around $800 back then.
That is how I really wanted to do it.

I'll post a picture when we get home. Mine is 16' x 36' and 12' at the sides.

[Sundancer330]

Prices vary around the country for concrete flatwork, its always priced by the square foot. Cost for setting up forms and concrete placement is $4-5 per square foot, you will also have to add for base material which can be cheap sand four inches deep.

[vdubee]

Originally Posted by norty1

I'll post a picture when we get home. Mine is 16' x 36' and 12' at the sides.

Waiting on the rv cover porn pics Norty!!

[norty1]

Originally Posted by vdubee

Waiting on the rv cover porn pics Norty!!

Not porn pics! LOL. Another fun thing we did was raise the side poles a extra foot when we got the Jayco. Our old Sunnybrook was not as tall. Now that was fun!