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Old 05-14-2017, 07:18 PM   #81
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Nice job! Sure better than the wimpy stock horn aren't they!
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Old 05-14-2017, 07:22 PM   #82
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I just changed the window in the entry door from a small glossy window to a large new one that can be found on the more recent ( 2016 and up ) Senecas.....WOW what a difference in clarity and vision from inside the coach !

I also solidified the water tank and re-riveted and caulked the screws of the front topper...many screws were broken.
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Old 05-14-2017, 07:26 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by goofy View Post
I just changed the window in the entry door from a small glossy window to a large new one that can be found on the more recent ( 2016 and up ) Senecas.....WOW what a difference in clarity and vision from inside the coach !

I also solidified the water tank and re-riveted and caulked the screws of the front topper...many screws were broken.
Can you please tell us more about your entry door window? Does it now match the other frameless windows of the coach? Where did you find it and how much $$ please!
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Old 05-14-2017, 07:32 PM   #84
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Window matches perfectly ! As a matter of fact,its the old one that looked odd.

Cost of window from local Jayco dealer $400 Can $ ( about $300 USD) took about 90 minutes to install....probably one of my favorite mods to date !
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Old 05-14-2017, 07:35 PM   #85
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Thanks! On my list now!
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Old 08-04-2017, 07:55 PM   #86
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SeeLevel tank indicator installations and hot water recirculation

I have just spent a week installing my new SeeLevel tank level indicating system and simultaneously installing a hot water recirculation system. Also took the opportunity to clean up wiring, plumbing, fasteners, and rust that was starting. Also insulated where I could in accessed areas to improve cold weather operations.

Upgraded to the SeeLevel system to give me more accurate tank levels and to include the propane tank level which was not part of the original KIB monitor. I also installed a second indicator panel in the wet bay so I can actively monitor filling and dumping.

Installed the hot water recirculation system so we don't waste water down the drain waiting for it to get hot. It should be noted that I previously replaced the on-demand hot water heater with a 10-gallon tank heater. So it is sitting there waiting to be used. I used a 12-volt solenoid valve activated by a bathroom switch which triggers an adjustable time-delay relay allowing for a recirculation flow for an adjustable period of time. Also includes a LED indicator at the switch that shows when the system is recirculating. Water is recirculated at end of shower hot water line which is the furthest fixture from the hot water tank. So by default the recirculation system will improve hot water delivery to every fixture. Hot water is bypassed back to the fresh water tank via a manifold I constructed that combines the return and overflow functions. The manifold should also provide an air break in the overflow lines hopefully preventing excessive siphoning when the water tank is full.

Added some pictures of my progress in an album located here: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/me...lbums1497.html

Happy to expand upon my project if anyone needs more information.
Attached Thumbnails
Control center with SeeLevel.jpg   Wet bay after renovations.jpg   HW Recirculation switch and indicator light.jpg   LPG level indicator.jpg  
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Old 08-06-2017, 04:54 PM   #87
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Rob,

You are seriously afflicted!!! HaHaHa. Nice work and thanks for sharing. Did you also change the sensors on the black tank? If so, was the black tank difficult to get to. My black tank sensors are pretty much useless (like everyone else) and my main gauge is a flashlight down the toilet At a minimum, I would like to upgrade these sensors. Thanks!
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Old 08-06-2017, 06:30 PM   #88
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Rob, You are seriously afflicted!!!
My wife would agree 100%!

In regards to the black tank, I first thought I would attack it from the passenger side above the propane tank. But I quickly figured out the tank is tapered and if I installed it on the passenger side I would not get accurate readings. So I had to tear apart the wet bay to get access to that side of the tank. It worked out well, the paint on the control/hookups panel in my wet bay was starting to fall off and rust, so I refinished it while it was apart. I also cleaned up the wiring, plumbing, and heat ducts while it was apart.

If you convert to SeeLevel, it is an "all-or-nothing" proposition. It uses flexible printed circuit board sensors that stick to the outside of the tank and shoot a signal through the wall of the tank. So no internal sensors to gunk up, and the system gives you percentage readings from 0 - 100%. Not just the E - 1/3 - 2/3 - F guesses the original panel did. The SeeLevel monitor I chose also has programmable alarm points you can set to warn you when the tanks are low or high. Right now I have my fresh water tank set to 15%, my gray and black at 80%, and my LP at 20%. My display also has Bluetooth capabilities and sends the tank information to my phone. Don't even have to go look at the panel!

And regarding the propane tank I am now able to monitor it from the panel. I installed a sending unit on the tank gauge and used what was originally the wiring to the gray tank sensor to get its signal to the monitor panel. All the other tank sensors use a common bus design. So a single pair of signal and ground wires tie into the gray, black, and freshwater tanks. I used the original wires and that part was easy.

I can say this was a labor-intensive job, I had to tear apart both wheelwell assemblies and the wet bay. But doing so gave me the opportunity to cleanup and improve things as compared to the factory. I even braced up the bottom of the compartments for the gray and black tanks. I used 1" x 1" steel tubing across the frame rails to prevent the compartments from sagging between the frame rails. I also put rigid foam insulation under both the gray and black tanks to (hopefully) improve future cold weather operations. I also insulated the wheelwells since there was nothing but a layer of plastic between the outside and the heated underbelly. And I installed new Freightliner mudflaps when I put things back together.

I shudder to think what it would cost had I had someone else do the work at current labor rates!
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Manchester tank sending unit.jpg  
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Old 08-06-2017, 08:42 PM   #89
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LED Light Bar

I installed a 20" LED light bar in the cooling slot in the bumper. Highly recommend this modification. Best $50 I could have spent. The difference is remarkable. I do a lot of night driving (young kids). I aimed it down and never have anyone flash brights.
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Old 08-06-2017, 09:39 PM   #90
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Rob, can I get you to upload some pics of your LED headlight mod. I bought the bulbs, but dont see a way to stash the ballasts and what not.
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Old 08-07-2017, 04:57 AM   #91
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LED Light Bar Nilight 20 Inch 126w LED Work Light Spot Flood Combo Led Bar Off Road Lights Driving Lights Led Fog Light Jeep Lights Boat Lighting ,2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WE47FVM..._yBeIzbT5HXA44

I will snap a photo tonight. All ballast etc are internal to this unit. Bolt on and run a couple wires. Put mine on a separate toggle. Ran the hot wire to the fuse box behind the drivers seat.
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Old 08-07-2017, 06:57 AM   #92
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Rob, can I get you to upload some pics of your LED headlight mod. I bought the bulbs, but don't see a way to stash the ballasts and what not.
I have OPT7 LED bulbs, my low beams are their newest FluxBeam X model (FluxBeam X LED Headlights - OPT7), in my picture it is the larger unit on top with two wires coming out of it. The high beam (the lower lamp) is their standard FluxBeam model. But for a while both were the standard Fluxbeam units (9005 high beam and 9006 low beam units) and they fit the same way.

In both cases the driver module for the lamps is very compact and both fit inside the Freightliner housing. They are tucked inside the housing towards the centerline of the truck in both lights, the picture below is the driver's side. You can see the factory wiring come in from the left to connect to the OPT7 driver modules. Plug and play, no wiring modifications whatsoever. Did not need to use the supplied ECM capacitors on the Freightliner.

I hope that helps!
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LED headlight wiring.jpg  
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Old 08-16-2017, 03:31 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by Robbbyr View Post
I have just spent a week installing my new SeeLevel tank level indicating system and simultaneously installing a hot water recirculation system. Also took the opportunity to clean up wiring, plumbing, fasteners, and rust that was starting. Also insulated where I could in accessed areas to improve cold weather operations.

Upgraded to the SeeLevel system to give me more accurate tank levels and to include the propane tank level which was not part of the original KIB monitor. I also installed a second indicator panel in the wet bay so I can actively monitor filling and dumping.

Installed the hot water recirculation system so we don't waste water down the drain waiting for it to get hot. It should be noted that I previously replaced the on-demand hot water heater with a 10-gallon tank heater. So it is sitting there waiting to be used. I used a 12-volt solenoid valve activated by a bathroom switch which triggers an adjustable time-delay relay allowing for a recirculation flow for an adjustable period of time. Also includes a LED indicator at the switch that shows when the system is recirculating. Water is recirculated at end of shower hot water line which is the furthest fixture from the hot water tank. So by default the recirculation system will improve hot water delivery to every fixture. Hot water is bypassed back to the fresh water tank via a manifold I constructed that combines the return and overflow functions. The manifold should also provide an air break in the overflow lines hopefully preventing excessive siphoning when the water tank is full.

Added some pictures of my progress in an album located here: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/me...lbums1497.html

Happy to expand upon my project if anyone needs more information.
Would love to hear more about the tank access and wiring for the SeeLevel project. I am thinking about doing this on my Embark which is very similar config.
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Old 08-16-2017, 08:50 PM   #94
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Would love to hear more about the tank access and wiring for the SeeLevel project. I am thinking about doing this on my Embark which is very similar config.
Sent you a PM, let me know what else I can do. Happy to help!
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Old 08-17-2017, 06:51 AM   #95
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Rob, we are sitting in St. Martin, New Brunswick and as the miles add up so do the list of mods I want for next season.

I really need to find a way to get you to Florida
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Old 08-17-2017, 12:57 PM   #96
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I really need to find a way to get you to Florida
Or Las Vegas
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Old 09-02-2017, 03:12 PM   #97
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You mentioned removing the dash to access the audio unit in one of your posts. On the 2018 Seneca, I see several torx screws around the dash panel. Do I also need to remove the allen head screws around the gear shift, and do I need to remove the screws surrounding the air cond panel? Thanks in advance. Hope to install my Sirius radio antenna later today before the Alabama/Florida State game.
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Old 09-02-2017, 03:21 PM   #98
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You mentioned removing the dash to access the audio unit in one of your posts. On the 2018 Seneca, I see several torx screws around the dash panel. Do I also need to remove the allen head screws around the gear shift, and do I need to remove the screws surrounding the air cond panel? Thanks in advance. Hope to install my Sirius radio antenna later today before the Alabama/Florida State game.
On my 2014 it is just the Torx screws on the panel, all the way over to the headlight switch side. I think there might be 10 total. You do not need to remove the shifter or the A/C controls panel. You do however have to remove the parking brake valve handle. To do that you need to punch the roll pin out of the handle with a pin punch. Be careful, don't let the pin go flying!
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Old 09-02-2017, 03:38 PM   #99
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Super info, thanks! And "Roger That" on the pin on the air brake knob!!!!
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Old 09-04-2017, 03:26 PM   #100
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Well finally got to installing a bed lift to our master bed. Now it's a one person job to get into the storage space under the bed.

FYI it was a Hatchlift BLK-LGE Large Bedlift kit
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2016 Seneca 37FS Bed Lift.jpg   Bed Lift Brace.jpg  
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