Shower door plastic latch broke

[mtnester]

Any ideas for a homemade fix or after market latch to replace the cheap black plastic one that came with a Greyhawk 29MV.

Thanks

[RVermont]

A photo of your set up might help to get replies, I dont know the specific latch involved but with a photo someone might speak up as they have a similar set up but not the same unit you have. best wishes, these parts can be a pain to locate as jayco doesnt provide a good parts manual for the owner.

[LI-Camper]

My latch broke soon after we bought our 2016 29MV also. I use a small bungee cord to hold the shower door open while we travel. The bedroom door has a white plastic nub(?) it connects to when you close the bedroom door. I hook one end of a small bungee cord around this nub and the other end hooks around the shower door when it is open. This keeps the shower door panels from moving. I hope this helps.

[mtnester]

Yes that's what I've been using also, just wanted something that looked more factory.

Thanks

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by mtnester

Yes that's what I've been using also, just wanted something that looked more factory.

Thanks

Call or email Jayco service.

Every time I've done so, they've dropped parts in the mail for me without question or hesitation.

[Rustynuts]

I now have a replacement Aluminum one available and an ad is posted on the classifieds. This replacement is for the 3 FLAT panel sliding shower door that is in our 37RB and many other Jayco models.

[MrJackSprat]

Can you post link to ad?

[Foretm]

Here's the link. I will be considering this once mine fails...


https://www.jaycoclassifieds.com/rv-...her-models-292

[Hoski]

Thanks for the link on the aluminum latch. One question though. My wife and I just picked up our 29MV last week (We are first timers!). This string caught my eye, because as we were measuring things to start the move in process, my wife tried to release the plastic latch on the shower door and just couldn't do it. Ours is very tight. I discovered that applying downward pressure on the top of the latch while pulling up on it made it release. Despite many tries she couldn't do it. It may be that the hook end on ours just needs to be sanded down a slightly, but don't know. Is the aluminum latch just as tight? Is there something we are missing on releasing this latch?
Thanks

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by Hoski

Thanks for the link on the aluminum latch. One question though. My wife and I just picked up our 29MV last week (We are first timers!). This string caught my eye, because as we were measuring things to start the move in process, my wife tried to release the plastic latch on the shower door and just couldn't do it. Ours is very tight. I discovered that applying downward pressure on the top of the latch while pulling up on it made it release. Despite many tries she couldn't do it. It may be that the hook end on ours just needs to be sanded down a slightly, but don't know. Is the aluminum latch just as tight? Is there something we are missing on releasing this latch?
Thanks

When I broke my first original latch we were getting ready to leave on a trip and having the tools and equipment I just quickly made an aluminum one by hand to get by until my dealer got me a new one, but really just wanted a spare as a couple friends also have Senecas that might need one. The second one I received was a little different than the first one so it looks like word got to the manufacturer and they made changes and it sounds like you have the newer version with the little nub on the end. One thing you can have her try is to gently push the door panels toward the latch, this can relieve the pressure from the rubber bumper cushion mounted in the aluminum door frame, but it still can be a little tricky.

The aluminum latch I made, the notch is open like the original I had in my Seneca. I moved the mounting hole slightly (.03125”) toward the notch that goes over the handle so that it uses a little more pressure from the rubber bumper in the door frame and this keeps everything snug. I also suggest when installing to tighten the mounting screw to the point where the latch has some resistance to move it and it is not just loose and flopping around. So you can try filing the nub off a little and tightening the screw a little and if you can’t get a friction fit tightening the screw, you can take the bushing the screw goes through and file a little off the back of it so you can snug the screw up a little more.

A friend with a Seneca 37k had the newer style latch and also had the same complaint. I didn’t have the new aluminums ones done yet and He was on a trip and had to do an emergency stop in rush hour traffic and his new style latch failed and when the doors slammed forward one of the panels shattered into a million pieces. Now I am retired and just like making things and am not in this for the money as I want them to be affordable and cover the cost with a little left for more tools ..........but with these latches I feel it’s not a matter of if they will fail, it’s a matter of when.

[Hoski]

Thank you. Our rig is a 2019 so it should have the latest clip. I’ll try sanding down the hook just slightly to see if that helps. You will probably get another order soon!

Thanks

[pconroy]

I put my son's 3D printer to work when a shower bracket broke on ours. 3D printers are awesome for fabbing lot's of things!

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by pconroy

I put my son's 3D printer to work when a shower bracket broke on ours. 3D printers are awesome for fabbing lot's of things!

Yes they are, been making all kinds of things for our Seneca like this extended vent handle so my wife come reach it.

[don_kleinschnitz]

Originally Posted by mtnester

Any ideas for a homemade fix or after market latch to replace the cheap black plastic one that came with a Greyhawk 29MV.

Thanks

My shower door latch broke as well. There is no way that latch will survive RV motion and repeated opening and close.

The shower doors rattle like crazy [like many other items in this RV] when underway so I used insulating tubes to hold the doors back and stop the rattle.

Does anyone know who is the manufacturer of these shower doors?

I am looking for a better solution as well, looking at that latch but I also want to stop the rattling at the same time.

[CAG]

I replaced the heavy, rattling trifold door that my wife and I hated cleaning with a Nautilus Retractable. About 40 lbs lighter, self cleaning and it opened up more space in the shower. You are not always dodging the handle and bar.

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by don_kleinschnitz

My shower door latch broke as well. There is no way that latch will survive RV motion and repeated opening and close.

The shower doors rattle like crazy [like many other items in this RV] when underway so I used insulating tubes to hold the doors back and stop the rattle.

Does anyone know who is the manufacturer of these shower doors?

I am looking for a better solution as well, looking at that latch but I also want to stop the rattling at the same time.

The latch you show in the first 2 pics is just a tension clip to hold the door closed while in use, don’t you have a hook style latch that hooks over the handle? When I designed the aluminum replacement I sell, I moved the notch back a bit to increase pressure on the rubber bump stops to help stop rattling. The plastic latch allows the doors to move and rattle because it flexes.

[don_kleinschnitz]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

The latch you show in the first 2 pics is just a tension clip to hold the door closed while in use, don’t you have a hook style latch that hooks over the handle? When I designed the aluminum replacement I sell, I moved the notch back a bit to increase pressure on the rubber bump stops to help stop rattling. The plastic latch allows the doors to move and rattle because it flexes.

No, there is no latch that captures the handle. The plastic bracket latches the glass together when in the open position and latches into the channel when the door is closed.

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by don_kleinschnitz

No, there is no latch that captures the handle. The plastic bracket latches the glass together when in the open position and latches into the channel when the door is closed.

Interesting, they might have never put one on during the build. Mine looks the same as yours and the clip you show spaces the doors apart when open. Check to see if there is a screw hole in your frame for a latch, if not, one could be added. Do you have a rubber block that the glass goes into when in the open position like in the pic?

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by don_kleinschnitz

No, there is no latch that captures the handle. The plastic bracket latches the glass together when in the open position and latches into the channel when the door is closed.

In your 3rd picture, I can see the factory latch hooked over the handle, this is the travel latch.

[don_kleinschnitz]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

Interesting, they might have never put one on during the build. Mine looks the same as yours and the clip you show spaces the doors apart when open. Check to see if there is a screw hole in your frame for a latch, if not, one could be added. Do you have a rubber block that the glass goes into when in the open position like in the pic?

In your last picture, I noticed the toilets position and realized that I am looking at this from the front and you are talking about the backside ...... so I went out to the RV to pay more attention to detail.

The latch that broke on mine is on the left edge of the door (looking in) and is accessed from the outside (toilet side). My "travel latch" on the right (looking into the shower) interior is not broken.

That said and after more careful inspection I now realize (pictures attached):

• _132644 The inside latch does not latch the door fully back into the stops as you earlier mentioned. It is too long or the notch is in the wrong place. I can also see how this thin plastic would break.
• _132804 Something is stopping the outer glass from seating fully into the plastic guide and I do not know what. Perhaps the guides gap is not wide enough for the glass.
• -113023 There is no guide in the channel on the left side (looking in) to capture the glass. I suspect this was part of the purpose of the latch that I broke. To open this latch you have to deform the plastic and it expectedly breaks at its corner.
• The middle glass is canted relative to the other doors I don't know if this a misadjustment as I do not see any. It's also free to rattle in the stowed position as it fits sloppily in the guide at the right. I assume it should be stowed to the right to travel.
• When the doors are stowed to the right they still rattle as there is nothing on their left edge to keep them from vibrating against each other and the upper and lower tracks.

All in all, like so many other elements of this RV, this thing is an awful design for an RV.

I think to fix this I need:

• A better and compliant right rear latch
• Compliant guide blocks at two places in the right vertical track that grab all three pieces of glass.
• Removable compliant spacer guides installed on the left top and bottom side of the glass when it is stowed for travel.
• Replace the whole thing with a Nautilus Retractable