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Old 04-08-2015, 05:15 PM   #101
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Sorry to jump in, but I used the leveling jacks on the RV. Did both on one side evenly, then the other side. If you don't have them I would recommend a couple of heavy duty hydrolick jacks on the frame before and after the tires.
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Old 04-08-2015, 05:43 PM   #102
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Did Mine Today

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Was not as hard as I thought. First nut I took off (the bottom one) stripped and I had to cut the U-bolt to get it off. Just had to cut an inch off no problem. I did use a c-clamp when I thought the nut was turning hard c-clamp worked great may not have been needed but was afraid of stripping the U-bolt. I used the jacks to raise each side to take weight off.
On the pass side where exhaust pipe come out the U-bolt hit the exhaust pipe when that side was jacked up. I cut an inch or two off the U-bolt so it did not hit the exhaust pipe.
I put the right at 2" and the left at 1.75". The left side has both slides and a loaded fridge. Don't know if that was smart but that's what I did. Was not sure to go 1" or 2" will continue to monitor this thread.
Thanks to all who have posted here.
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Old 04-09-2015, 02:18 AM   #103
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Just to clarify, I have the 31 FS model. The U-bolts were adjusted to 2 inches all around as MadDad and others have suggested and based upon their test rides after this procedure was done. No bolts were removed. Tighten up (clockwise) on one side slightly and slowly and then on the other (same U-bolt) slightly and slowly. I always followed up immediately with the security/locking bolt as I did not put much faith in the threads as two bolts are better than one on the same bolt. Did not use an air-gun as I was concerned about stripping these bolt threads and they turned with just slight resistance using my 7/8" ratcheting tool. The bolt threads still appeared brand new and if there was evidence of any corrosion there I would have probably taken this to a shop and paid out the money. Finally, I took the added safety precaution of placing heavy duty jack stands under the frame. This because each side had to be raised up as described in previous posts.
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:12 AM   #104
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Thumbs up

Don't know how to show two thumbs up, but good job!! Oh, there's an emoticon for that.
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Old 04-10-2015, 09:47 PM   #105
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Thanks to MadDad for suggestions. Did adjustment today. Haven't taken out to interstate to test yet. C Clamp, levelers, and 7/8" wrench all a must. The 2nd nut was cinched down tightly and was a "bugger". Used a 15" adjustable crescent wrench with a mallet finally to break seal. Pics attached.

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Old 04-11-2015, 09:08 AM   #106
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I adjusted mine myself as well. I had two u bolts that were stripped out. I called hellwig and they said they were getting a lot of calls on this and sent me newu bolts. Only problem was they did not send thenuts . I had run all over town to find the right ones.
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Old 04-11-2015, 09:44 AM   #107
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Wonderful to hear they are getting lots of calls. Apparently that is the only way folks can encourage responsible behavior and step forward to address or dismiss the issue. It's sad that's how things roll.
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:25 AM   #108
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Thanks msturtz!!! I was able to get the nuts to break free, without stripping fortunately. While doing the adjustment on the helper springs I came to realize 2 things. First Mor-Ryde doesnt know what the final weight of the chassis is going to be so best to leave them locked down on a light setting then have a really harsh ride. Second has anyone had to cut the inside Ubolt to clear the rear sway bar? My unit they are both with in 1/4 in, which i think is a bit close for moving suspension pieces.
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Old 04-12-2015, 12:49 PM   #109
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Originally Posted by fam cruiser View Post
Thanks msturtz!!! I was able to get the nuts to break free, without stripping fortunately. While doing the adjustment on the helper springs I came to realize 2 things. First Mor-Ryde doesnt know what the final weight of the chassis is going to be so best to leave them locked down on a light setting then have a really harsh ride. Second has anyone had to cut the inside Ubolt to clear the rear sway bar? My unit they are both with in 1/4 in, which i think is a bit close for moving suspension pieces.
Well somebody DOES know what the final weight of the chassis is going to be. Maybe Mor-Ryde needs to talk things over with the somebody who DOES know so that you won't have to cut U-bolts.
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Old 04-13-2015, 11:22 AM   #110
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I adjusted mine yesterday as well. Wasn't too bad however I did notice that the end of the bolt connecting the rear spring to the chassis is rubbing a hole in my black tank! It's so tight I couldn't get a tape measure blade between them!
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:44 PM   #111
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So finally finished a long ride home, some 1600 miles and can say for sure that adjusting the helliwigs made a big improvement in handling and also not allowing the rear suspension to bottom out.

Much less sawing at the wheel and most semis went by with little notice.

Now to look at installing the 5Star tune.
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:31 AM   #112
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Finally looked at making this adjustment to our coach. I noticed a potential problem. Our helper springs are offset forward nearly 4". This puts the front of the helper spring almost in contact with the spring hanger. I'm afraid that after the adjustment, the helper spring will be so close that it may contact the spring hanger. Has anyone else's looked like this?
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Old 04-20-2015, 11:42 AM   #113
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Adjusting it down I think would definitely move it further away from the spring hanger. I don't see a problem.
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Old 04-20-2015, 12:32 PM   #114
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Sorry to muddy everything up, but I just got off the phone with Kevin at Hellwig. He says the absolute max you can adjust them to is 2". I believe he meant to say "the least", because he went on to say that anywhere from 3"-4" is fine if it rides ok and doesn't bottom-out.
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Old 04-20-2015, 01:08 PM   #115
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Yes. That is exactly what mine liked like. When you tighten them down the arch bows them into recess of leaf spring mount. You may have to trim the rear sway bar side of the u bolt. Remember when they flex once almost flattened out they will actually being to shorten in length as the bow upward with suspension flex.
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Old 04-20-2015, 03:43 PM   #116
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Kevin at hellig told me same last year and someone at Jayco said they left their facility after inspection. Even though moryde puts them on..mine are close to 4" and ride seems good with 40 pieces of wood...left tbis issue alone a while ago
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:30 PM   #117
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We just put the Greyhawk into the shop at our local Jayco dealer to take care of our list of items accumulated since we bought it in August. This was on the list:

Quote:
The Jayco Owners Forum has a recent thread about Hellwig helper springs being incorrectly installed on many Greyhawks. The thread link is:
http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=23499
Please verify with Jayco and/or Hellwig that the helper springs on the Greyhawk are adjusted to the proper heights for maximum load support.
When we get the Greyhawk back, I will post the results.
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NC Roamer, please let us know your results. How much are you planning to have them adjusted??

Also a slight correction, they ARE installed correctly, just not adjusted for the load.
Finally got the Greyhawk back from the dealer. (Yes, it was in their shop for three months.) The work order states:

"Tech talked with Jayco and they stated for this application based on weight loaded on the axle that the provided measurements on the spring system all is correct. The system could be tightened up but this would result in more preloading of the suspension and affect the driveability of the coach causing wagging when going down the road."

So they did not adjust my springs, but they did say that they would if I insisted. I told them to leave it as is for now. We have not used it all that much and, as this is our first motorhome, have no other driving experience with which to compare. But I must admit, it seems to drive well considering the size of the darned thing. We've never bottomed out and it does not wander all over the road.

Also, the one time I put it on some CAT scales, the rear axle was nowhere near GAWR but the front was 140 pounds over. It may be that the 31FKs with the front kitchen do not have as much weight on the rear, so my spring settings may be okay. We will use it this season, and I'll weight it again, and then I can reconsider the springs next winter.
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:40 PM   #118
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:51 PM   #119
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my springs are at about 3 inches on my 2015 29k red hawk, there is a second set of shakes in the middle behind the rear wheels, and 1 in front, the middle one is adjusted at about 1 inch, dealer said this was fine but he will keep and eye on it or let me know if anyone has a problem, have almost 10,000 miles with no problems, i had a class a with no helwig springs e450 no problems on stock ford springs, my real question are these really needed most class c do not have these, also the question someone had about the water lines against the springs, they are actually drain lines for something
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Old 04-30-2015, 06:19 AM   #120
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Does anybody know what Jayco has done about this ? My 2015 Greyhawk Hellwigs' are also not installed correctly according to this thread.
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