Wider & Longer Sewer Tube for Rhino Hose

[ChristopherW]

Part 1
First I want to thank others who have posted their "Sewer Tube Pipe" projects which inspired me to replace mine to hold the larger "Rhino" fittings and longer hose (Pic 22).
-My real addition in this post is the GREAT fit I found using a new Hatch, PVC fence post and a spacer made from a fence post end cap. This allowed a clean "no gap" finished product, (Pic 21).
-The 11 stainless screws securing the hatch is overkill but the holes came with the new hatch so I used them.

-Starting Point: A pipe too small for longer hoses with larger fittings (Pic 1)
-Comparison between the old 22” tube and new 73” one (Pic 2)
-Pic 16 is a test fit of most parts which are described below. The square tube in this photo is 14” of extra tube that I used to test the fit.

[ChristopherW]

-New RV Sidewall Hatch (Model 50008TW) from D&W Inc. $8 + shipping. (Pics 4 & 5) http://www.dwincorp.com/products/84/Sewer-Hose-Hatch-Cover-5000-Replacement-hatch-for-Maxi-Tube-
-Since the hatch is designed for a round tube, you need to cut off the round and tapered section to allow a “square to square” fit with the tube. Pic 6 is after the cut using a table saw.
-Fence Post, (5 x 5) $28 from Lowes (Pic 7)

[ChristopherW]

-Fence Post Cap (two needed) $3.50 ea. from Lowes (Pic 8)
-Make a spacer from the second Post cap by cutting in on a table saw at the edge of the flat section. (Pics 9 & 10). This is used to fill the small gap between the 5 x 5 tube and hatch. (See Pic 16 above)

[ChristopherW]

-New RV Sidewall Hatch (Model 50008TW) from D&W Inc. $8 + shipping. (Pics 4 & 5) http://www.dwincorp.com/products/84/Sewer-Hose-Hatch-Cover-5000-Replacement-hatch-for-Maxi-Tube-
-Since the hatch is designed for a round tube, you need to cut off the round and tapered section to allow a “square to square” fit with the tube. Pic 6 is after the cut using a table saw.
-Fence Post, (5 x 5) $28 from Lowes (Pic 7)

[ChristopherW]

-A "Cover Plate" (Pic 13) was needed to hide the expanded hole in the coach sidewall. The enlarged hole was necessary as I had to move the new hatch and 73" tube up about 3" on the sidewall so the tube would clear the coach frame. The previous 22" tube did not sit on top the frame, but instead stopped an inch short of it and therefore could be lower on the coach sidewall. Note: I am not proud of the over-cuts and chipped gel coat on Pic 18. All this is hidden with the cover plate (Pic 20 above). I included this pic to stress the need to be careful when enlarging the sidewall opening.
-Pic 12 shows cutting the inner part of the cover plate. Drilling holes at the corner reduces the chance for cracking. Two holes along each side allow room for the jig saw blade to cut between each corner.
-Pic 13 shows the cover plate with the tube opening cut. This is not the final size as it will be shortened and lower corners rounded during final installation.

[ChristopherW]

-My installation needed a 1/2" spacer above the coach frame (Pic 15) so the tube would clear the spare tire hoist actuator tube. (Pic 19)
-Pic 14 illustrates the ¾” x 1/16” aluminum strap used to secure the tube to the spacers, which are on top the coach frame rails. These may be optional and custom to each vehicle. They are screwed to the ½” spacers in Pic 15 and the overall installed view is in Pic 19.

[Jhowemca]

Wow!
Nice work!

[ChristopherW]

Materials/Supplies/Tools
-Gatehouse 5x5 Vinyl Post, Two Post Caps, (Lowes)
-RV Sidewall Hatch (50008TW) from D&W Inc. Model 50008TW ($8 + shipping) http://www.dwincorp.com/products/84/Sewer-Hose-Hatch-Cover-5000-Replacement-hatch-for-Maxi-Tube-
-Brackets 1/16 x 3/4 Aluminum + screws to secure to spacer
-Stainless Screws and nuts for securing Hatch to sidewall
-Pop Rivet gun, Pop Rivets and backing washers, to secure the tube to the hatch (inside the tube)
-Caulk, foam sealant (low expansion), Flex seal (for waterproofing on inside of coach wall when finished)
-Small hand saw, Dremel tool including angle drill attachment (for making Pop rivet holes in tube and hatch)
-Screwdrivers, wrenches, small square, sockets, Pliers, Jig saw, Bosch or drill Driver and bits
-1/2" Square steel tubing for spacer between frame and Tube (optional)
-Table saw (to trim cover plate and cut hatch and end cap to make spacer)
-Aluminum strap 3/4 x 1/16 for tube straps (to frame), optional and custom to each vehicle. (Lowes or Home Depot)
-Cover plate for the side wall, I used 1/8 PVC Plastic Sheet from TAP plastics ($3.25). See note below

Misc. Notes:
-For final fitting have a helper to speed things and keep caulk from setting up before you are finished
-I used paintable caulk in-between all parts in the hatch, spacer, tube and sidewall
-Do not plan on gluing parts together. The Hatch is made from Polypropylene which does not glue (at all) as it is not affected by solvents. I spoke to the Mfg. (D & W) about this and I tested glues and epoxy on scrap pieces (which did not hold).
-For the cover plate take the hatch with you and have Tap Plastics cut it for width. Round corners with a Jigsaw (very fine blade) and sand to what you want. 120 grit sandpaper works well followed by 220.
-Raingo white Vinyl Gutter (Lowes $8) is used for the “slide out tray” inside tube.
-Test the final fit several times before assembling.
Total Cost approx. $100; Overall time approx. 30 hours

Sorry if the posts are out of order, some needed "moderator review" that delayed the post, hopefully the moderator can place them in order.
Good Luck!

[Crabman]

Nice mod!

[Mnwelsh]

That's a really good idea. Nice work