Originally Posted by klassic
What happened to plan B with the micro inverter?
Good question. Never tried it. Just the issue is to keep the micro-inverter alive I have to have pure sine on the same circuit it is feeding. To do that off the grid requires either an inverter fed 120v or generator. I thought I had that sorted by using an ATS but overnight while thinking about it (instead of sleeping) I realized if the "Controller" AKA "Battery Charger" inside the Main Controller was off I'm not going to ever charge the batteries (off the grid) and they will go flat even with the Solar Going. If I turn the thing on (controller) I now risk damaging the thing because it's now raising the voltage on the DC line that's also feeding the inverter to charge the batteries. Likely under load from the inverter the controller will be working hard to raise that voltage pushing it to max...this was all as Einstein called a "Thought Experiment" but I couldn't see how that would not be the case. So I came up with the new plan.
Just I must leave the Jayco installed wires alone or risk voiding any warranty claim I have on them doing the work to make that right. So going down the vent for the fridge/furnace is easy. I'll run the two solar extension cables down that to the same place the romex was run for the micro-inverter. Put the charge controller there. Now the DC wires going into the main controller are 4 gauge. Oddly, there's no 4 gauge wires off the battery so that's a bit of a mystery. But since those wires go to the battery I can output from the solar charge controller (TS-60) to those same wires. Essentially the output from Solar if it's a good day will really just feed right into the main controller and it will be happy and excess will be charging the batteries. I have read all manuals and as long as I set the dip switches appropriately the output from the solar charger won't be higher than the max input DC for the main controller.
All still going on in my head before I actually do it.
Also, with the micro-inverter up there on the roof still and the output going to the 120v on the main controller I am seeing at the meter (grid meter) I am using almost no power (trailer is in a shaded area so I'm not making all that much solar) so the current micro-inverter is a great idea if you always are connected to the grid.
So the TC500A micro-inverter with panels is a good option for trailers that always have a plug into the grid. I'm probably correct in thinking there's a lot of them out there like that. Just when the grid goes down the micro-inverter turns off.
Best case scenario would be I could open the micro-inverter and modify it to not have to have 120v on the line to work. Yes, if untouched and the grid goes down i risk powering the grid while it's off. I can easily fix that by unplugging from the grid. Or installing something at the box I plug the trailer into. It really screws us all that they force that on you to not be able to use this without providing it power. Defeats the purpose.
So, that's where that stands and why. For 250.00 I almost had the perfect setup but thanks to some higher power all micro-inverters are forced to be hard coded to only work when the power is on.