Originally Posted by FoxFanRay
Being just an observer without a dog in this fight, I have to say I don't understand one thing. With all the people saying they put boards under their tires to get the RV somewhat level, and boards under the jacks, and then auto-leveling works, what good is that auto-level system? I don't have auto-level on my rig, and I just put boards under my tires to level the rig. I've gotten quite good at looking at the 'bubble level' I have on the pin box, and am able to come pretty close to level on the first try. Help me understand why this is a good system please. Not trying to offend anyone here.
I understand what your getting at as I had the same questions until I saw it work. Lets say for instance you pull into a concrete pad smooth site on a side hill that is out of level side to side by three inches and front to back by another three inches. In other words the door side rear is 6 inches higher than the driver side front. That is not an easy one to level with blocks and for the perfectionist can take quite a while as each corner has a different requirement. With an auto level system you hit the button and it will level the trailer in about two minutes. I purposely used those numbers because they are within the stroke cababilities of each jack and the system will handle it no problem without any additional block. Now lets say were in the same site but it's gravel and we have the trailer right where we want it but the front driver side jack is in pothole that is four inches deep so now we need ten inches of travel for the system to work but the jack only has seven inches. If we set down 4 inches of block under that jack the system now will work because we have given it back four inches of stroke ( the amount of lentght the jack can lift) .
After you have used the system a few times and get a feel for what it can and what it cant do you can eyeball what you need for blocks. I never have needed to actually pull my trailer wheels up on levelling blocks like I used to .
It saves time in the sense that I can set the guesstimate number of blocs down under each jack. Unhook, pull the truck away, hit autolevel and in about a minute I have a perfectly level trailer with no need to get in and out of the coach to check. No "conversation" with the wife about whether it is level or not or whether it's good enough or not....
In fact the best thing about it is that I can pull in, unhook, grab a beer and go to the pool...... the wife can push the auto level button.
Once I saw the system work, it was a must have on my next trailer and I was pleasantly suprised when I saw that it was an included option on the Eagle fifth wheels we were looking at in 2016. By the time we were able to decide and order Jayco had removed it from the package on the 2017's and made it a chargable option. I had my order in early enough that I got a 2017 off the 2016 build sheet and it was included however I still would have paid for it as it was a non-negotiable must have for me.
Mine is the four point system. I can see on the Northpoint and Pinnacle lines that use the 6 point system and have another set of jacks clear at the back of the coach where there could be some clearance issues getting in and out of driveways and other sloped access where it could be an issue on longer rigs as some have reported here. My rear jacks are immediatly behind my rear axle.
There certainly is nothing wrong with the conventional method. I think some people struggle with it more than others. And of course there are those of us who are married to someone like my wife who insists that the trailer absoultely has to be level ( she keeps her own bubble level in the trailer ) I hope that helps you.