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Old 06-29-2016, 03:56 PM   #1
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Cabinet doors do not stay up

On our 36FBTS the top row of cabinet doors on the kitchen side will not stay up(open), you have to hold them open. I noticed this from day one but didn't give it much thought until the wife looks at me and ask why would they put spring loaded hinges in the doors if they all fall down anyway? Looking at the design the doors will not make it to full 90 deg where the springs might begin to hold them. The pulls hit the underside of the slide and prevent function of the spring hinge.

My question is, who else has this issue? I have to prop open the door over the CD player, I do this with a CD case. How do you hold yours open?
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Old 06-29-2016, 05:00 PM   #2
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Here's a thread where a strut was added. http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f6...h-32834-3.html I'm assuming you have a similar setup. Something I need to do also when I get a chance.
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Old 06-29-2016, 05:33 PM   #3
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I did this mod to the cabinets when we got our camper. They definitely do the job but boy were they a pain to install. I had to drill pilot holes in the door, being very careful not to drill all the way through, just to be able to get screws in all the way without stripping out.
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:46 PM   #4
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Upstate, do you know how many lbs of pressure your struts have?
I bought struts some time ago and I can barely push them in by hand. I think it's a waste of time installing them if they have too much resistance.
I don't know what pressure to look for now.
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Old 06-29-2016, 08:21 PM   #5
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Upstate, do you know how many lbs of pressure your struts have?
I bought struts some time ago and I can barely push them in by hand. I think it's a waste of time installing them if they have too much resistance.
I don't know what pressure to look for now.
They were the same ones listed in the mod thread. They were very difficult to compress by hand, but work perfectly on the doors. Just hard to install.

I would try one and see how it works out.
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Old 06-29-2016, 08:29 PM   #6
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I didn't have any problem installing them. The trick for me was to install the end on the door first (installed about an inch away from the face frame while holding the door open and parallel to the floor). Then with the strut hanging, you can attach it to the face frame (while keeping the door parallel to the floor). I used a cordless drill and didn't drill pilot holes.


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Old 06-29-2016, 08:52 PM   #7
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Jayco went "cheap" on this, on a number of models..... I picked up eight 6" struts, for about $6 a pair at Caming world, for all of my top-hinged cabinets...... Simple modification, but for a "deluxe" unit (lists at $80k+), these should have been standard equipment.....
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Old 06-30-2016, 05:52 AM   #8
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Those metal struts are ok. But I had the exact type in my pace arrow and always had a few on hand. The rivot in the bracket either broke or that screw on the other end pulled out of the wood. Probably because they are so stiff. I think there are round plastic types around I may try.
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Old 06-30-2016, 07:34 AM   #9
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Those metal struts are ok. But I had the exact type in my pace arrow and always had a few on hand. The rivot in the bracket either broke or that screw on the other end pulled out of the wood. Probably because they are so stiff. I think there are round plastic types around I may try.
I just ordered the plastic ones based upon reviews on all these struts. I'll post some pictures when I get them and install them.
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Old 06-30-2016, 10:09 PM   #10
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We have the metal struts on our camper and they can be problematic. They apply so much upward pressure when closing the doors that they sometimes pop the door right off of the hinge. When that happens I have glued the plastic fillers back into the door then reinstalled the hinge with the screws. That seems to work. Also I have had the strut break the screw off that holds it into the style. If that happens it is difficult to get the broken screw out to replace it.

When closing the doors the strut puts on a lot of downward pressure making it necessary to make sure you have a good grip on the door handle or it will get away from you and slam.
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Old 07-04-2016, 12:11 PM   #11
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eldermike, I like the idea of the plastic struts. Looking forward to your end results. I also agree, for what these things sell for, Jayco should have installed them at the factory.

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Old 07-04-2016, 12:40 PM   #12
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I installed them took about an hour, perfect solution IMHO. I'll post some pictures later.
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Old 07-04-2016, 02:21 PM   #13
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I determined that they first screw on the bottom was 3 1/4 inches up from bottom of door opening. I pre-drilled all of those and then one at a time I installed the bottom screw and marked all the remaining holes on each one. I set the doors open with tape holding them open. I marked my pre-drill with a sharpie so I would not drill through the doors. I always select a pre-drill size by testing it on a scrap of wood to see if the screw strips or drives hard.
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cabholderresized (1 of 1).jpg   cabholderresized-2 (1 of 1).jpg  
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Old 07-27-2016, 03:10 AM   #14
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What's the widest door that 1 support handles before needing to put one on each side in your opinion?

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I determined that they first screw on the bottom was 3 1/4 inches up from bottom of door opening. I pre-drilled all of those and then one at a time I installed the bottom screw and marked all the remaining holes on each one. I set the doors open with tape holding them open. I marked my pre-drill with a sharpie so I would not drill through the doors. I always select a pre-drill size by testing it on a scrap of wood to see if the screw strips or drives hard.
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Old 07-27-2016, 05:22 AM   #15
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What's the widest door that 1 support handles before needing to put one on each side in your opinion?
They come 2 in a package and I was not sure until I tested the first door that I could use one on each of the doors in the Pinnacle. The design and weight of the door will determine the need for one or two. A stiff door under a few lbs and 1 will work fine.
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