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Old 06-22-2016, 11:26 AM   #21
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Location: Wasaga Beach
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Originally Posted by cariboocreek View Post
Slides retracted.
Water and sewer lines stored.
Rear manual stabilizers retracted. Remove/store levelling blocks.
Rear auto levellers retracted. Remove/store levelling blocks.
Front auto levers raised to correct hitching height.
Confirm tailgate lowered.
Back truck into king pin.
Confirm jaws locked.
Retract front auto levellers.
Remove/store levelling blocks.
Drop front levelling legs manually to 1" above ground.
Disconnect 30/50 amp electrical cable and store.
Remove/store front wheel chocks.
Plug in trailer/truck connection and connect emergency brake cable.
Truck integral brake manually to max braking.
Pull slightly ahead and confirm good hitch up.
Visually confirm proper hitch up and jaws locked.
Retract front leveller legs to transport position.
Remove/store rear wheel chocks.
Confirm trailer lights functional.
Close tail gate.
Lock all trailer external doors.
Drive safe.

Pretty much my sequence. On my Reese I can't get the safety pin in the release handle if the jaws aren't properly closed. So far no issues other than forgetting to remove a chock once and breaking most of it. Having people offer to help in the hitch or unhitch process is the worst thing for following your own procedures.

2011 Ford F350 CC LB DRW
2014 Eagle Premier 361REQS
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Old 06-22-2016, 12:57 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by jackofall View Post
My BW turnover companion slider makes it very easy to see if it is correctly hitched, but I still do a quick pull test just to double check.

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Old 06-22-2016, 01:54 PM   #23
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Location: Missouri City, The Republic of Texas
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Thanks for all the comments. I'm still puzzled why I didn't get a good connection. My hitch is a B&W and it uses the factory puck mounts and it's been great and everything I've read says it's reliable when hitching. I can say (with my perfect 20/20 hindsight) that the noise when I backed onto the pin just wasn't the same (but I didn't snap to the difference).
The only thing I can come up with at this point is I might not have opened the jaws before trying to hitch. I'm thinking that if the jaws are in the closed position backing into the pin won't open the jaws and the "wrong" hitching sound was the pin bumping the closed jaws.
I may try that next time we're out.
Those who have suggested that I got off lucky are spot on. The pin box slid off the hitch plate as I pulled forward and the landing gear touched down fairly gently. The damage occurred as I moved forward and the box drug over the top of the tailgate. I'm out about $250 to replace a couple of the plastic pieces on the tailgate top. They arrived yesterday and I hope to install them this weekend.

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Old 06-23-2016, 06:54 PM   #24
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Location: Florien, LA
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I always backed in and watched the pull / release lever. It'd go out and pop back in as the pin went in and latched. That said though, I have high hitched it a few times where it appears to latch, yet is indeed not latched. Hense, either painting the jaws and bottom of the pin, or at least visually checking to make sure all is locked in like it should be. Glad you got your parts in. At least I know now I don't want to damage the old man step on the tailgate due to cost.
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Old 06-26-2016, 05:48 PM   #25
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Location: NW AR (God's Country)
Posts: 1,505
I got one of these things from Butch's Service in Ohio several years back. They run about $70 and are easy to install. I hope he's not out of business cuz I'm having a tough time finding info about him now.

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Old 07-04-2016, 06:20 PM   #26
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 89
Pull test procedure

I have also painted the jaws on the lock a bright yellow making it very easy to see if it is closed properly. I raise the gear about an inch set the brake and try the pull. The routine is important and something you have to develop for yourself and be comfortable without stale aging for any reason, even rain! Take the time and save the damage.

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