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Old 10-19-2014, 08:39 PM   #11
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The dealer doing the install can get it all set up for you.

I recommend the automatic slider hitches. The extra couple of hundred bucks it will cost you is cheap insurance. You will spend more money on beer this year than on your hitch.

2013 Ram Longhorn 3500 Crew Cab 6.7 Turbo Diesel, Aisin Transmission.
2014 Jayco Eagle Premier 351 RSTS, Mor/Ryde Suspension and Pin Box, 17.5" wheel upgrade, 18k Pull Rite hitch.
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:46 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by jayco_ro View Post
Thanks for the information so far. This is really helpful especially given that you have experience with a very similar installation. Sounds like a slider is the conservative best bet based upon experiences and I'd rather go that route for peace of mind - I don't want exploding rear windows.... I already did that once to my minivan when I backed out of the garage with the trunk open and that is no fun.

It seems like there are automatic and manual slider options so I guess that will be the next consideration. It looks like from a manufacturers standpoint that Reese may have the upper hand since it seems like Ford based its 5th wheel prep kit based upon the Reese, but with that said Reese and others make adapters that allow for pretty much anything to get installed.

With regards to height, does anyone have any input on if I am likely to have the right degree of available/required adjustment in the hitch to ensure a properly level and vertically placed hook up of the Eagle? I've got 18" tires, assuming a Reese Slider Hitch, and a Mor-Ryde pin box, I suspect there is some/enough vertical adjustment to the Hitch that would allow me to consider this. Thanks again.
When I looked at hitches, the automatic Pullrite was about $2500 and my Husky slider was about $700 installed. Big price difference and not worth it to me. With my F350 I rarely see a reason to use it but I wouldn't be without it just in case.

Also, with my HT and my hitch/truck setup I did have to adjust the truck hitch. The trailer still does not sit perfectly level but I cannot adjust the hitch anymore without being too close to the truck bed. It looks fine and functions normally, but with the Mor/Ryde, a F350 suspension, and a light pin weight it does sit slightly nose high. Only way to really fix it I believe is to get large wheels at some point. But like I said its not a problem. It actually looks level but does read that way...

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Old 10-20-2014, 06:24 PM   #13
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I have a Pullrite slider hitch which I have had in my F-350 and is now in my GMC. The hitch has worked perfect in both vehicles. I have pulled several different makes of 5th wheels and I am glad I had the slider option on a few occasions. The two main things I look for when adjusting the hitch to the trailer is to maintain at least 6" of clearance above the side rails and to watch very close your first tight backup to be sure the rear of the trailer pin does not come into contact with your tailgate. I found this a problem twice. The solution is simple as you should have enough clearance between your trailer and the truck to leave your tailgate down when the slider is in the rear position. I prefer the manual hitch as it is easy to operate and since I am already out of the truck to look at any tight parking space I thought I could find other places to spend the savings between the auto or manual hitch.
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Old 10-23-2014, 12:53 PM   #14
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When you get the 5er hooked up,remeasure hight,probly shorter hooked up with truck squatting a little than when setup level.
Is there a way to frame out an opening and put a door wide and tall enough to clear ac?

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2012 Chevy duramax dually
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