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Old 12-26-2015, 05:55 PM   #11
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Location: White Bear Lake
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We ordered the Jayco with the Reese Revolution. Saved a lot of $$ and weight over buying a slider. While I still cuss a blue streak when I get severely jack-knifed, it's not because I broke anything!

2012 Ford F-150 Eco, Max/Max
Jayco 26.5 RLS, Reese Sidewinder
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Old 12-26-2015, 05:55 PM   #12
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I hope you all had a good laugh. That is what that is!

As one comment said, "poor horses".

2011 351RLTS Eagle, Mor/Ryde suspension & pin box
06 F350 Lariat PSD, SRW, LB, CC, EGR delete kit, 16K DrawTite hitch, Timbrens, TST TPMS

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Old 12-26-2015, 06:06 PM   #13
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Sandy Hook ct.
Posts: 49
I have a Reese Titan 16K non sliding hitch, I can get way over 90 degrees before I make contact. The hitch on the GM trucks are mounted center line of the rear end, while the Fords are mounted a little in front of the center line of the rear, which makes your turing radius a little smaller. I have buddies who have the sliders on there Fords and they have never used them. Just be careful and you'll be ok.
2015 345 BHTS 5th Wheel
2005 Chevy 2500HD Duramax Diesel
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Old 12-27-2015, 06:37 AM   #14
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Location: Stuart
Posts: 67
Flapper, looks like we have a very similar set-up, except that the Max Payload option was not available when we bought our Ecoboost, so we had to go with the 23.5 RBS to stay under payload limits. I am using the B&W Patriot 16K hitch, with the Revolution pinbox that came with the fifth wheel. Made many 90 degree turns without even coming close to the cab. Just don't like the rails in the bed, but I cover the bed with a thick rubber mat. The hitch is light and the head removes easily to make removal or installation a little easier. There are also a lot of horizontal and vertical adjustments you can make on this hitch to set it up for each individual truck. I tow with the bubble between the lines on the level and plenty of rail clearance.

How much did the Max Payload option increase the payload? Without we were at 1895 lbs? Have not looked at the new aluminum bodied F-150's yet.
2013 Eagle HT 23.5 RBS w/Reese Revolution
B & W 16K Partriot Hitch
2011 F-150 SCREW Short Bed 3.5L EcoBoostŪ Ti-VCT
Max Tow Package 1895 lb Payload Capacity
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Old 12-27-2015, 06:53 AM   #15
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I considered a pull rite superglide and Reese sidewinder. Went with the sidewinder due to nose high issues others had when using the superglide (they don't make one for the ram pucks). After towing over 5000 miles with it this year, here is no way I could have gotten away without it when getting into some spots. I never considered a manual slider as getting out to slide it, back up, then get out again to kick it in doesn't appeal to me at all. Let alone I would likely be too lazy and try something without doing it
2014 Ram 3500 SRW CTD
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Old 12-27-2015, 08:03 AM   #16
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Location: Milford
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I've been using a Super glide for 9 years. Just moved it from my 04 F-350 to my 15 F-350 last year using the frame brackets. The brackets were cheaper than buying a new hitch to use the Ford prep package, and my hitch is still In good condition.

Threads like this always go the same, a lot of people say a slider isn't needed and others say they wouldn't be without one. There was a post I saw the other day where a guy who went without a slider, and verified that he had clearance turning left (and assuming a right turn would be the same) and dented his cab corner and blew out the rear window. Turns out, he had very little clearance and being in unravel ground would be enough to cause contact.

In the end, I think the best advice is to look within. I would be one of those people that would miss where the trailer was in relation to the cab while backing into a site in the middle of the night after driving all day and put the camper through my back window, so I opted for an automatic slider. No regrets on my end. I also wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to others.

If you can keep track of where the trailer is in relation to the cab in all situations (like many do), then you'll probably be fine without a slider. Just think about the exceptions - when your tired, when is raining, etc. That's when it's most likely to bite you. You'll be a little bit limited in backing at times because you won't be able to turn quite as sharp, but that's the trade off. If you want piece of mind, get the slider. Yes, it is heavier and more expensive, but I think both heavier and more expensive is a drop in the bucket compared to the weight of the combination and the money invested in both.
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Old 12-27-2015, 01:29 PM   #17
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Lake helen,fl.
Posts: 77
Andersen hitch

Originally Posted by Kevin O. View Post
Congrats on the new truck! What trailer do you have? I'm also very interested in the Andersen hitch. I have read many great things about it and nothing negative. Feedback after you trip will be very much appreciated. Enjoy!

I own the Andersen ultimate hitch it tows our rig very well,very good turning radius,extremely lightweight and no grease to contend with.
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Old 12-27-2015, 02:15 PM   #18
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Yep, love the Revolution (aka Sidewinder). Even better than having an auto-slider! Nothing to ever have to worry about - just back up as needed! I really had to watch the weight, even though the max payload option brought the truck up to 2300 available. Went with the Reese 16K hitch, again to save weight (I can mount and dismount it easier than my batteries!), but you can use almost any conventional hitch with it. I would not have ever considered a manual slider, so saved the really big bucks by not having to get an automatic, either. 12,000 miles, Maine to Calif, Gulf Coast to Minn. Canadian border. It's worked like a charm.

Scott 101 - haven't seen the specs on the new truck, but chatter is that it allows an additional 400 lbs, so that may make the payload up to around 2600 or more!
2012 Ford F-150 Eco, Max/Max
Jayco 26.5 RLS, Reese Sidewinder
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Old 12-28-2015, 07:29 PM   #19
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Palmdale
Posts: 73
I went with the Demco hijacker autoslide hitch. 36Ktps pinnacle and 2011 GMC 2500 HD. I can turn at a full 90 degrees with no worries on my short bed pickup. The rack and pinnion gearing seamed to be more robust than the pullrite cam system. I have been using this hitch for almost two years with no problems. It does weigh about 300 pounds. I bought a 500 pound capacity cart from habor freight and mounted 2x10s on the cart to make it level with the truck bed for removal and installation. I take it out when the trailer is not in use and the under bed mount leaves just 4 holes that are pluged with the supplied plastic caps. I found the best price at tweetys rv with free shipping. I followed the instructuions and installed it myself. Very pleased!
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Old 12-28-2015, 07:38 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by gtsum2 View Post
Went with the sidewinder due to nose high issues others had when using the superglide (they don't make one for the ram pucks).
Not sure where you got your info, but I have the RAM Puck system on my 2014 RAM Laramie, and I have a 18K Superglide mounted on the PullRite Rail system that goes on and off of the pucks with ease. The hitch is heavy, but the rails come off with 8 pins, and in four rail pieces, so easily managed.

I'm rigging a hoist under my carport roof, so that I can raise the hitch, back the truck under it, and then lower and install it. Just the opposite to take it out.

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