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Old 03-29-2016, 09:15 PM   #11
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Why are you against using two generators in parallel?

Any why would you not want to leave yourself some headroom?

A blow dryer, microwave, or the water heater would all individually probably put you in overload using a 3100 inverter generator while the A/C is on.

3100/120 = 25.8 amps max, not continuous. It takes 4000 watts in generators to get 30amps continuous. Remember, the generator names are not.
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Old 03-29-2016, 09:40 PM   #12
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Fairnatic, thanks for the response. In getting specs from generator manufactures, what I have discovered is that tying two 2000 watt generators together does not give you 4000 watts. It actually gives you about 3000 watts. So, since buying two 2000 watt generators (plus the parallel connecting kit) costs more than one 3100 watt generator, I continue to lean toward trying to see if the 3100 watt gen would work. I know that running "everything" on a 3100 is not even possible. Don't want to do that. I am only wanting to be able to run the A/C with everything else turned off - except for maybe a few LED light still on.
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Old 03-29-2016, 10:08 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by tld View Post
Fairnatic, thanks for the response. In getting specs from generator manufactures, what I have discovered is that tying two 2000 watt generators together does not give you 4000 watts. It actually gives you about 3000 watts. So, since buying two 2000 watt generators (plus the parallel connecting kit) costs more than one 3100 watt generator, I continue to lean toward trying to see if the 3100 watt gen would work. I know that running "everything" on a 3100 is not even possible. Don't want to do that. I am only wanting to be able to run the A/C with everything else turned off - except for maybe a few LED light still on.
Yes and no. Like I said, you will get 4000 watts, but not continuous (3200 continuous). Same with a 3100. That is its max, not continuous.

I do not think you will be happy running a 3100 alone. Not to mention, hauling around a heavier generator and being limited to A\C only, if it will start reliably. Nothing like having a generator overload and having to go outside, unplug, kill the generator, restart, replug, and hope it does not happen again when something starts up again.
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:13 AM   #14
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In my TT the 15k A/C would run fine on my Honda 3000i from the idle position. I installed the hard start kit on my first a/c. A/c was replaced because of a leak and Coleman told me not to install hard start on the new unit 2014 since it was designed not to be needed. I would call with your model s/n and see what they say. Very easy install you gut plus wires into terminal block
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:07 AM   #15
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I really appreciate all of the responses. Let me ask this question: I can run my 15K A/C with other electrical items in use (not the microwave though) at RV parks while plugged into the parks 30 amp electrical socket and I do not throw the parks 30 amp breaker. So, since the generator has a 30 amp breaker, and I don't throw the parks 30 amp breaker, shouldn't it be reasonable to assume that I would be okay using the generator?
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:26 AM   #16
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Having done way more generator research than anybody in their right mind would, for a camper w/ a 13.5k AC I would use a Honda EU3000is w/ a wheel kit. Hands down - no questions asked. Its the quietest most fuel efficient generator you can buy that can spin that A/C every time and still run some onboard systems. The second generator I'd consider is the Yamaha EF2400iSHC. It's got enough oomph to spin up a 13.5k A/C and is more portable than the Honda.

15k A/C I'd want 2 units running in parallel. I used to be a big believer in the EU2000 from Honda, but I'd look at the Yamaha 2000s as well. On trips you don't need the A/C spinning, you can bring one unit instead of two. Or if you A/C is really a heat pump, you can still run that too w/ both generators up.
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:28 AM   #17
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It is the starting amp draw that the genny has to deal with on initial start. Shore power does not do that. You can see this just by plugging into a wall socket a cheap volt guage. The volts go way down when the a/c kicks on when using a genny. My 2800 Yamaha would stall out from econo run mode sometimes but the Honda 3000i does not. That is why a hard start capacitor gives an extra kick. Low voltage starts can over time burn up the compressor. It is kind of a catch 22. Run on full and burn gas and make more noise or use econo mode and put more wear on the compressor.
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:54 AM   #18
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Rock, I think maybe you answered my question. When my compressor kicks on while I'm connected to shore power, there is not a drop in voltage. So, if I need 3000 watts and I'm plugged into 120 volts, then I'm going to draw 25 amps. But, if I'm using a generator, when the compressor kicks on, I may get a momentary drop in the amount of voltage from the generator. If the momentary voltage drop was, say, down to 110 volts, then my need for 3000 start-up watts to turn the compressor would cause a momentary current draw of over 27 amps, which might be just enough to throw the generator breaker.
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Old 03-30-2016, 10:19 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock View Post
It is the starting amp draw that the genny has to deal with on initial start. Shore power does not do that. You can see this just by plugging into a wall socket a cheap volt guage. The volts go way down when the a/c kicks on when using a genny. My 2800 Yamaha would stall out from econo run mode sometimes but the Honda 3000i does not. That is why a hard start capacitor gives an extra kick. Low voltage starts can over time burn up the compressor. It is kind of a catch 22. Run on full and burn gas and make more noise or use econo mode and put more wear on the compressor.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tld View Post
Rock, I think maybe you answered my question. When my compressor kicks on while I'm connected to shore power, there is not a drop in voltage. So, if I need 3000 watts and I'm plugged into 120 volts, then I'm going to draw 25 amps. But, if I'm using a generator, when the compressor kicks on, I may get a momentary drop in the amount of voltage from the generator. If the momentary voltage drop was, say, down to 110 volts, then my need for 3000 start-up watts to turn the compressor would cause a momentary current draw of over 27 amps, which might be just enough to throw the generator breaker.
Hence the capacitor. It takes that initial kick out of the equation. Makes it so the genny doesn't bog down as much, and it's easier on the compressor too. Right?
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Old 03-30-2016, 10:19 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jopopsy View Post
Having done way more generator research than anybody in their right mind would, for a camper w/ a 13.5k AC I would use a Honda EU3000is w/ a wheel kit. Hands down - no questions asked. Its the quietest most fuel efficient generator you can buy that can spin that A/C every time and still run some onboard systems. The second generator I'd .
This may be true at lower elevations. However, I've been at 6k+ with temps in the high 80s and tried to throw the generator on just to cool the trailer off after getting back and the windows being shut and the 3000i wouldn't even run the AC. So the elevation, heat and stock jetting on the carb created enough loss that it would not start the AC.

Because of this and mainly portability, I'm looking at getting rid of the 3000i and getting two smaller units.
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