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Old 12-21-2015, 06:55 PM   #1
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Help! (kitchen light switch)

So I have a switch panel in the wall with 2 switches. One controls the living room ceiling lights, and the other the kitchen ones. The kitchen light switch isn't working.

I replaced all the fuses, but no dice.

So I got a 12 volt test light, pulled out the light switch panel, and this is what I'm looking at.

Can someone please tell me how I test if there's current? There are a total of 5 wires. 3 brown, 1 red, and 1 green.
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:39 PM   #2
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Can you get the clip part of your test light to a ground point (Frame) of your trailer?
If you can, then probe each of the wires with both switches off and tell us which wires turn the test light on.
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:41 PM   #3
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A couple more pics would help too. 1 of the front too.
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:02 PM   #4
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the brown and red wire look to be connected to a simple two position switch (on and off). The other brown green and then brown seem to be connected to a three position switch (I assume an on/off/on -- or perhaps the other switch is not to a light set/ out/off/in or something like that) Perhaps disconnect the wires from the non working lights and do a continuity test across the switch points and then go from there.
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:08 PM   #5
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Those crimp on connectors can be fussy. Get a pair of pliers and squeeze them again, one by one. The connection is made by a pointy piece of metal pushing through the insulation and they don't make a very good connection. If you have power to your overhead lights, then power is present to the switches. It's either a bad switch or a bad crimp connection and I'd put my bet on the crimp connection.
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppers4 View Post
Those crimp on connectors can be fussy. Get a pair of pliers and squeeze them again, one by one. The connection is made by a pointy piece of metal pushing through the insulation and they don't make a very good connection. If you have power to your overhead lights, then power is present to the switches. It's either a bad switch or a bad crimp connection and I'd put my bet on the crimp connection.
I agree with hoppers4. It is most likely a poor connection with those type of connectors. You can get better "Spade" type connectors that have a crimp connection instead of a piercing connection.
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:26 PM   #7
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Like NVGun says, the switch on the right looks to be an on/off switch. The one on the left may be a spring loaded switch (returns to the center when toggled). If that's the case it probably is also connected thru a remote control box. Do you have a remote?
If the switch feels loose or floppy (not spring loaded) then it's probably broken. I've had one.
Next I'd squeeze the connectors as posted above.
No luck, I'd suspect the remote controller, there are relays that could be bad and connectors that could also be bad.
You don't say what rig or year you have. That would also help with diagnosis.
Keep in touch!
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Old 12-21-2015, 11:54 PM   #8
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Thanks for the replies, everyone! I'll try the tips tomorrow.

It's a 2011 Jayco pinnacle.

Thanks again, I'll keep you guys posted.

:-)
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:04 AM   #9
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What did you ever figure out????
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:06 AM   #10
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Ever check to make sure it wasn't turned off at the light ?
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:13 AM   #11
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Ever check to make sure it wasn't turned off at the light ?
Duh! Wouldn't that be something! LOL I have a bathroom light and fan switch that has just gone bad. Fan works but light switch is stuck on. Have to work the lights from their individual switches. Pulled the double switch out today and it looks like the individual switch can be popped out and replaced. Anyone done this???
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