Insufficient Heater air flow to back of 5th wheel

j4nash · 07-05-2011, 11:40 AM

We have a Jayco Eagle Super Lite 31.5 BHDS

Heater works fine but we cannot seem to get enough air to flow to the floor registers in the bedroom area in the back of the 5th wheel. And in the front of the 5th wheel it gets really hot. Any suggestions?

OurJayco · 07-05-2011, 11:57 AM

Can you close or cover the registers up front and see how the air flow is in back? You should be able to feel an increase in air flow.
There may be something in the vent that fell in there during build.
If you have a flashlight and a couple of mirrors, take the registers off and shine the light on one end and use a small mirror on the other end. You should be able to see the light (if the duct work is straight).

pokyjoe48 · 07-06-2011, 10:28 PM

I was talking to a fellow that owns a Open Range and had a problem with to much heat forward and not enough in the rear. His solution? He put dampers between the furnace and the tubing and was able to adjust heat where he needed it. I believe the furnace had 4" outlets.

bad99ram · 07-07-2011, 07:05 AM

You may want to check if the ductwork came loose where it connects to the furnace. I had one run that became undone. The ductwork connects to a metal piece that attaches to the furnace. I reconnected and put a pop rivit in to hold

barrelslime · 07-07-2011, 07:13 AM

? Are you wanting heat or AC?? The AC doesnt come thru the floor vents in my super lite Eagle. Only furnace heat comes thru floor vents. Im just curious cause its July and Im wondering why you are running the furnace.

j4nash · 07-07-2011, 12:08 PM

We were just camping up in the mountains and it was in the 40's at night. I know it sounds funny that someone would use their furnace in July.

I just talked to Jayco and they said i could switch a few of the outlets on the heater around and that the vent on the top of the heater is suppose to blow more hot air then the lower vent. So i think i will switch them around and also check for leeks this weekend.

Jayco said not to close off any of the vents as it could cause the heater to overheat. but when i talked to the dealer they told me that i might want to take silver Duck tape and close off part of the vents off the heater.

Rivermaster · 07-07-2011, 02:55 PM

We had a mouse cut a hole and build a nest on our duct hose between the furnace and the rear ducts. The odor along with the low air flow gave it away.

-Scott

yogi154 · 07-09-2011, 06:53 PM

We had the same problem with ours, no heat in bedroom. Problem solved the flex duct was off at furance.

j4nash · 12-22-2012, 02:45 PM

We we fixed the heat flow problem there was two places that had a T that just dumped to the underbelly we closed those off and now have a lot more flow to the back bunk.

chipper · 12-22-2012, 07:38 PM

Glad to hear your problem is fixed.

I had a Rockwood 5er with a air flow problem. I removed the under-belly and found one of the ducts disconnected. It was flowing hot air into the under-belly. Once I reconnected the duct, all worked well.

matt1946 · 12-24-2012, 07:15 AM

We had too much heat in the bedroom so I installed a louvered vent which I can either close or limit the amount of heat coming from it

allen8106 · 12-27-2012, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt1946

We had too much heat in the bedroom so I installed a louvered vent which I can either close or limit the amount of heat coming from it

If you talk to Jayco they will discourage this. I work in residential HVAC and it's not a lot different than RV HVAC, RV HVAC is just smaller versions. If you use an adjustable vent you run the risk of overheating the furnace heat exchanger which will damage it and shorten it's life. If the overheating situation burns a hole in the heat exchanger you can introduce carbonmonoxide into the air stream which can kill.

**norty1** · 12-27-2012, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j4nash

We we fixed the heat flow problem there was two places that had a T that just dumped to the underbelly we closed those off and now have a lot more flow to the back bunk.

On many rigs, that is how they keep the holding tanks from freezing. Closing all heat to the area may cause some problems if you are in sub freezing weather with the tanks.

SmokerBill · 12-27-2012, 05:32 PM

If you use a small 12 volt (or 120 VAC) fan in your rv to circulate the air, I think it would make a big difference in heat distribution, without playing around with trying to adjust the airflow from the furnace registers. A fan will also help with window condensation.

Seann45 · 12-28-2012, 10:36 AM

I had the same problem on my TT... dealer could not find a reason for it... blocked the bedroom vents but that did not help at all... finally said "to heck with it" and got a Big buddy heater. I never turn the furnace on now...

SmokerBill · 12-28-2012, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seann45

I had the same problem on my TT... dealer could not find a reason for it... blocked the bedroom vents but that did not help at all... finally said "to heck with it" and got a Big buddy heater. I never turn the furnace on now...

Seann, I have a Big Buddy heater, but it's in storage near Seattle right now, darn it. I'm curious, how much ventilation do you have to provide? I think I read in the manual that you're supposed to leave a window or two cracked open a bit for indoor use.

SouthRider · 12-28-2012, 02:19 PM

We had the same problem - our dealer was familiar with it.

He had us bring it in as a warranty repair, and he PARTIALLY covered the vents to the underbelly in order to direct more air to the rear of the unit. Our unit has a front bedroom - rear living.

He also advised against closing the front vents.

I did buy & install louvered vents for the bedroom & bath - but on his advice know NOT to fully close them. I had wanted to add another duct & register at the rear of the living area, and he advised against that also.

Seann45 · 12-29-2012, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by allen8106

If you talk to Jayco they will discourage this. I work in residential HVAC and it's not a lot different than RV HVAC, RV HVAC is just smaller versions. If you use an adjustable vent you run the risk of overheating the furnace heat exchanger which will damage it and shorten it's life. If the overheating situation burns a hole in the heat exchanger you can introduce carbonmonoxide into the air stream which can kill.

Jayco sent me louvered vents that can be closed as a way to deal with the no heat in the living room problem.

Bearles · 01-01-2013, 03:31 PM

We had the same problem in our 30.5 RLS, dealer couldn't do or suggest anything and Jayco never responded to my email request. In speaking with someone familiar with RV's he said the problem is the supply to the underbelly to keep the holding tanks from freezing and the long run from furnace to duct and only the one duct. We also added a small portable elctric heater to assist in the rear. Because we have rear living area I am going to add an electric fireplace to the entertainment area to supply heat. Design flaw in my mind needs more supply to rear.

Seann45 · 01-01-2013, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmokerBill

Seann, I have a Big Buddy heater, but it's in storage near Seattle right now, darn it. I'm curious, how much ventilation do you have to provide? I think I read in the manual that you're supposed to leave a window or two cracked open a bit for indoor use.

I crack my bathroom vent open less than 1/2".. the big buddy has a low O2 sensor and will shut itself off if needed.

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