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Old 01-23-2015, 07:07 PM   #1
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Jayco cargo tray/bike carrier issue

Imagine my surprise after traveling from Summerdale, AL to Vicksburg, MS a week and a half ago, to find that my cargo tray was gone. The two supporting bars had snapped off. There was a truck box mounted on the tray which contained two kayaks and other sundry items. Altogether nearly $5000 worth of stuff.

I think the tray broke off shortly after getting on I20 in Jackson, MS, where there is a rough area that contains several "whoopdee doos", for lack of a better description. Several items were amiss in the trailer too, but no damage. I went back and retraced my route from Jackson to Vicksburg but found nothing.

The cargo rack was rated for 250lbs, and as near as I can figure I had less than 200 on it.

I have Foremost insurance and they have been fair, I believe, in their settlement. I don't know if I will replace the tray or try to come up with another alternative.
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:31 PM   #2
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I almost lost tow Honda 2000is couple year back. I noticed welds were cracked on a hitch I made....my new hitch now will never break.
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Old 01-23-2015, 08:10 PM   #3
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Jayco cargo tray/bike carrier issue

Thanks for sharing. I have one of these as do many others. I'm wondering if anyone has inspected theirs for defects and tried to figure out how to prevent this type thing. Here is a picture of my carrier. I understand yours broke off clean where the Clevis pin goes thru the hitch on both sides.

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Old 01-23-2015, 08:29 PM   #4
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This is the carrier/cargo rack that slides underneath your trailer right? Different from the factory receiver hitch that is available on the newer models?
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Old 01-23-2015, 08:33 PM   #5
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So that others can avoid this product, please tell... what brand was the cargo tray? and where was it purchased from?


I previously lived on The Western Shore with friends in Summer, Robert, Foley.
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Old 01-24-2015, 06:52 AM   #6
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He is talking about the one that Jayco used to provide as an option on certain models.
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Old 01-24-2015, 07:51 AM   #7
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The problem is that the back of the trailer snaps up and down a lot like the end of a bull whip on those whoopie do's. That makes 100 pounds turn into maybe 7-8 hundred pounds of force and breaks the rack. These racks normally have some slack in them which compounds the problem.
On my new rack Im attaching each end directly to the added bumper supports to stop the slop and keeping my weight as close to the trailer as possible. I'm not doing any more weight than the two 2000i So around 100 pounds max.
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:29 AM   #8
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Here is a photo of where the rack supports broke off. Both sides snapped clean at the point where the pin went through.
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Cargo Rack Mount.JPG  
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:35 AM   #9
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If they had ran the pin sideways like the trailer hitches it would have been stronger.
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:36 AM   #10
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Have you talked with anyone at Jayco about this?
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Old 01-24-2015, 01:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ustabslim View Post
If they had ran the pin sideways like the trailer hitches it would have been stronger.
x2 We only carry two bicycles on ours, but sounds like regular inspections of the inner steel tube would be the minimum a person should do.
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Old 01-24-2015, 01:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
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If they had ran the pin sideways like the trailer hitches it would have been stronger.
I agree and wonder... Do ALL years have the vertical pin? Was it ever manufactured with a horizontal pin?
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Old 01-24-2015, 04:04 PM   #13
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I am looking into sliding a 1 -1/8 inside the sq stock, securing it and maybe re drilling the hole on the horizontal.
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Old 01-24-2015, 06:45 PM   #14
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I am looking into sliding a 1 -1/8 inside the sq stock, securing it and maybe re drilling the hole on the horizontal.
I would consult with an engineer on drilling horizontal holes. I was told by one that the vertical sides take most of the stress. But I personally have no clue.

To answer your other question, no, I have not contacted Jayco.
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:56 PM   #15
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Any engineers here that could give an opinion on the drilling of holes. Horizontal or vertical?

I'm going to beef mine up somehow.
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:20 PM   #16
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I'm an Electrical Engineer, but freshman studies (1st couple years) include civil and mechanical. My choice would be to match the holes in the new insert material to the existing holes. There is a whole field of Eng dealing with material stress around holes. My knowledge of this stuff is basic, but the best approach is to increase the wall thickness with the insert and not make it into Swiss cheese with more holes. Stabilizing any sloppiness (movement) between the new insert and the existing inside slider piece will help also. This could be with shims, rivets, bolts or tack welding. Of course rivets and bolts get you into the less desirable situation of more holes. If you go with welding, be very careful to not use too much "heat" to avoid destruction of the steel walls of the tube. This can be tricky and requires very good certified welding skills. If you have an insert piece with dimensions giving a snug fit as-is, would probably be the best. That's my advice.
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:24 PM   #17
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I am NOT an engineer nor do I play one on TV.

On a square tube with vertical loads the top one bottom are most loaded with tension and compression loading. There can also be sided to side loading with cornering. I agree, through the side would be better, but still seems under built.

I had a tow reciever added to my trailer so I could add things since it didn't have the tray option. It's rated for 500 pound tongue weight. I don't plan on towing a second trailer, but it seems much stronger.
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Old 01-25-2015, 04:36 AM   #18
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I got thinking this morning,
For the new insert material, you might consider solid steel stock instead of tubing stock.
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:07 AM   #19
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I got thinking this morning,
For the new insert material, you might consider solid steel stock instead of tubing stock.
Thanks for the thought, I am going to a hitch shop Monday and ask some questions.
1. If I take this thing off and bring it to them can they put a solid bar inside the tube?

2. Any suggestions to prevent this thing breaking on a road as long as it is not overloaded?

I think it an be improved upon.
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:40 AM   #20
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I'v done tons of fabrication thru the years and am a self taught welder with help from my dad who was certified. So I am no means an expert in this stuff or qualified except by real world experience.
Remember the weakest link in a chain is the break point. If you over build the platform legs then something else will break. I certainly think thicker tube or inserting a liner in the existing tube would be great but a solid tube would add nothing but extra weight..as then something such as trailer frame or other will fail.
Something needs to fail before the frame does.
When they say 200 pounds..well under normal situations. And if you have your load stuck way out from the bumper then it's acts like a fulcrum and multiplies the weight.
I would never put over 100 pounds on them. Just my opinion.
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