Leaks after Dewinterizing 2 years in row

[yellowdog00]

For the second spring in a row I am finding water leaks behind the water valve control panel on my Northpoint. Last spring, the tech who repaired it said he found two pin hole leaks in two of the plastic elbows. At the time I thought that it may just be faulty parts.

This year after Dewinterizing the leaks are back again in the same location. Now I am questioning whether I am winterizing correctly. I don't use compressed air but use the rv antifreeze method and follow the jayco manual. I've never had issues winterizing with two previous trailers but my confidence is definitely shaken with this one. I wondering if I should be exercising the different valves on the control panel while pumping the pink stuff in? Or maybe I need to add compressed air into my routine along with the pink stuff?

I would appreciate anyone's thoughts(particularly from fellow Northpoint owners) on ideas to help me successfully winterize my trailer next Fall.
Thanks!
Mike

[Hoppy220]

Had the exact same issue this year (first winter with the north point) my leak was on the black handle valve, (actually lower elbow) from reading some other posts with this same issue I'm wondering now how to winterize the lines to the fresh tank (that's where my leak was) will definitely blow air into fresh tank next year, may even let a small amount of the pink stuff rUn through those valves. I know it's a major pita to change those pieces out.

[BigJohnD]

I've never used the antifreeze. I have a set up made with a QD and valve to use with air , regulated to 40 psi. No water, no freeze, no damage. That said though, the one time I didn't blow the half bath toilet line out in previous rig, it cracked the valve. If you're fixing fittings, replace with better. Brass or whatever. Anything but the cheap plastic crap.

Hope you can get this solved. Water leaks are no fun.

[Hoppy220]

I used air and antifreeze, never gave thought to cycle the valves to the "power fill" setting for the fresh water tank. After reading these last 2 posts about the same issue that I had it ha's dawned on me that with out at least blowing air into the fresh tank, that allows water to sit on the closed side of the valve.

[BigJohnD]

Fresh water / city inlet can be a problem as well. If you prefer antifreeze, after pumping the system full of the pink stuff, make sure you press the check valve on the main inlet to let the water / air pocket out and the antifreeze to flow back out of your water inlet. I've seen that part freeze and crack as well due to a small amount of water in there.

[3'senough]

I have the same system in my unit. I had a leak, but that only came present while camping from a corroded valve.

My process has been blow out with air and turn all the valve combos when I do this.
Fill with RVAF, then follow with air to keep the lines clear and fill the p-traps.
My unit also has a 2 gallon expansion tank that I want drained.

[jimp]

Is 40 psi safe to use, I thought 25 psi was the max ???

[BigJohnD]

Should be, but, I never have it running without something open, then opening something else before closing something. So, the system is never pressurized much or seeing anything close to 40. I have a gauge on my set up, but can't remember its reading while running. Not much.

[RedHorse1]

Most water pressure regulators are set in the 40# neighborhood so I'd suspect 40# of air wouldn't be a problem. Water doesn't compress so the "hammer effect" opening and closing valves would be harder with water than air.
JMHO

[yellowdog00]

I appreciate everyone's input. I will be adding air to my winterizing process next fall.

BigJohnD said " I have a set up made with a QD and valve to use with air , regulated to 40 psi." Can you expand on that? I need to do more research on using air. Thanks again!

[klassic]

I had the leak last spring in that bottom elbow too.
The guy at the dealership told me to make sure to turn all the valves, when pumping in the antifreeze. Even if it means getting a little in the hot water tank or the fresh water tank.
I did that this year. I'll dewinterize this weekend and see how I made out.

I even took the elbow in to get another and everyone said there was nothing wrong with it.
I hooked it up again and the water sprays out. It comes out the factory seam. It can't be seen until there is pressure. Otherwise the elbow looks perfect.

Also while I was in there I noticed the hose to the pump was sucking itself together and "imploding". I switched it out with a piece of pex.

[BigJohnD]

Here's a picture. Small piece with water hose thread x air fitting screws into rv water inlet then of course the rest connects to that, then the air line to that. The gauge is just to monitor any back pressure, which is minimal.

I open up a sink and run for a while, then open the shower and close the sink, then open the toilet valve and close the shower etc.

Of course none of this happens until I've drained as much as possible via low point drains and also drained the WH.

[yellowdog00]

BigJohnD,
Thanks for posting pic! That really helps me understand what you were describing.

Klassic,
I will be interested to hear how your Dewinterizing process goes this weekend and if no leaks are present. I'm having the dealer repair my leaks but I feel I need to learn to be able to repair them myself in the future. Though I also hope what I've learned will prevent them. Need to research some more and invest in the tools needed.
Mike

[pconroy]

Take this with a huge grain of salt - but I'm not sure how a freeze could cause a 'pinhole leak'. A big split, a big crack - sure. But a pinhole leak? I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around that.

I guess if, in the end, adding a compressed air blowout makes the problem disappear, then that's all that matters.

[BigJohnD]

No water, no freeze, no problems. In 14+ years of rving, the only thing I used the pink stuff in is p-traps, and I hardly ever do that. I think I've bought 2 gallons in all that time. I guess everybody finds a method that works, this is just what works for us.

A pin hole is weird for a freeze. Usually a split as mentioned.

[klassic]

Originally Posted by yellowdog00

BigJohnD,
Thanks for posting pic! That really helps me understand what you were describing.

Klassic,
I will be interested to hear how your Dewinterizing process goes this weekend and if no leaks are present. I'm having the dealer repair my leaks but I feel I need to learn to be able to repair them myself in the future. Though I also hope what I've learned will prevent them. Need to research some more and invest in the tools needed.
Mike

No leaks this time Yellowdog.
I flushed out the hot water tank and a little pink came out so I know it went into the valves this time, and the same thing with the fresh water.
Maybe it didn't get cold enough this year, but I know there was pink in the elbows this time.

[yellowdog00]

Klassic,
Thank you for update. I picked up my unit today and they told me the same two elbows were leaking this year as they fixed last year. They replaced with better elbows this time. They said elbows were leaking at the seams on both of them.

I plan to introduce air pressure as well as the rv antifreeze into my winterizing next fall as well as exercising all the valves as I'm doing it to make sure no water is trapped in any of the elbows after I am finished. Thanks again for everyone's insight.
Mike

[klassic]

Yes. It was the seams.
I did the air last time too, then the antifreeze.
The air only gets out so much water. The pipes go up, down, circles. The valve pipes are tees, and loops. The residual water seems to come back.

[Aagalan]

Just discovered the same leaks in mine. Two elbows cracked and one of the three way valves. Anyone have a source for a new three way valve that will match the oem ones?

[taurus88two]

Casn anyone tell me where they are getting the parts to fix these water leaks behind the utility panel?