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Old 05-09-2016, 11:52 AM   #1
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Leveling a Eagle HT 29.5 bhds

I just found this forum and didn't know it existed. Awesome! Maybe you guys can help.
I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 pulling the FW in the title. I am using an Andersen Ultimate hitch. My problem is that the FW is towing about 5 inches nose high. I have 8.5 inches of bed clearance to the FW and the pin box is adjusted all the way up. There is one hole left, but the pin box hits the fiberglass before I can reach the highest hole. I really don't want to raise the FW because of the outside kitchen. What set up are y'all using? Are these FW's really low or am I doing something wrong?
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Old 05-09-2016, 01:58 PM   #2
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You're not doing anything wrong. The fact is that the Eagle HT line was made to match up with a typical 1/2 ton truck like Ford F150, which is lower than today's 3/4 ton 2500 trucks. I have a B&W slider hitch and maxed out all of the adjustments at both the pin box and the hitch. My rear axle were also flipped. Still, my 29.5 was still riding 5 inches nose high. So, we ended up having a 5-inch sub frame installed on our rig, and she's now riding straight and leveled. Now, can you still tow nose high? Yes, for a short time. In the long run, more stress will be put on the rear axle and tires. Thus, create uneven wear. It will depend on how often you use your rig and how much towing you'll do.

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Originally Posted by davisenvy View Post
I just found this forum and didn't know it existed. Awesome! Maybe you guys can help.
I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 pulling the FW in the title. I am using an Andersen Ultimate hitch. My problem is that the FW is towing about 5 inches nose high. I have 8.5 inches of bed clearance to the FW and the pin box is adjusted all the way up. There is one hole left, but the pin box hits the fiberglass before I can reach the highest hole. I really don't want to raise the FW because of the outside kitchen. What set up are y'all using? Are these FW's really low or am I doing something wrong?
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Old 05-09-2016, 02:17 PM   #3
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In the long run, more stress will be put on the rear axle and tires. Thus, create uneven wear. It will depend on how often you use your rig and how much towing you'll do.
I thought the moryde suspension was designed to equal out the weight of the FW onto all 4 tires even if you are nose high. With my setup I am not nose high so not an issue for me I was just curious as I had heard that somewhere. Am I wrong?
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Old 05-09-2016, 03:35 PM   #4
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I thought the moryde suspension was designed to equal out the weight of the FW onto all 4 tires even if you are nose high. With my setup I am not nose high so not an issue for me I was just curious as I had heard that somewhere. Am I wrong?
This is what the dealer just told me about the Mor ryde suspension. I'm not sure if he's right because my rear tires squat quite a bit more than the front ones.

My truck is a 2006 and the bed height is the exact same as a 2016 F150. This is why I am wondering what I am missing.
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Old 05-09-2016, 04:45 PM   #5
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For me, personally, I can't see putting all of my faith on the Mor/Ryde suspension equalizer. The CRE stands for Compressed Rubber Equalization, so hence the rubber portion can wear and break down over time. A brand new set may do its job for a while, but given some pretty bad road conditions and pot holes our rigs go through, there is no guarantee that the performance will be maintained. Once the rubber bottoms out, the stress will be transferred to the springs, shackles and axles.

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I thought the moryde suspension was designed to equal out the weight of the FW onto all 4 tires even if you are nose high. With my setup I am not nose high so not an issue for me I was just curious as I had heard that somewhere. Am I wrong?
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Old 05-09-2016, 05:20 PM   #6
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ANY tandem axle system with an equalizer (which is almost all of them) balances the load no matter the pitch of the trailer above it. So it stands to reason if the 5er is lever or nose high or whatever no more load would be placed front or rear given everything else is equal. The Morryde just is rubber damped to provide a bit better ride.

You could argue with it being nose high, weight is transfered to the back slightly but it really shouldn't be enough to matter.

What does matter is the layout of the particular camper. The 29.5 has a bunch going on in the back plus the storage which could add considerable weight if a bunch of stuff is back there.

In the end, nose high or level, the axles and tires won't be stressed any more than the other.

I have the 29.5 and pull it with a Ram 2500 Outdoorsman. The Outdoorsman sets about an inch taller than standard and I've also added 35 inches tires. I set nose high too. The HTs are just low. From the factory, they are spring over so you can't change that. There are two sets of holes though for mounting the springs and they come in the upper holes so you can gain almost 2 inches of height by swapping those. I plan to do this myself. Another cheap option would be a Correct Track setup. That gives you about two more inches of height. That would make up most of your difference.

I don't have an Anderson but is that set in the lowest position? You could easily gain two more inches without having bed rail contact there too if you could. Or I'd wonder if that fiberglass could be trimmed without affecting anything?
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Old 05-09-2016, 07:34 PM   #7
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The Andersen is as low as it will go. I talked to a rep today and he said he might be able to make the one for the flat bed hitch work in my truck. It drope down to 13 in and up to 16.

He also said not to use a mor ryde kingpin. I'm wondering if a regular kingpin might be able to a just higher. I'm not too excited about trimming the fibwrglass, but it is always an option.

I plan on dropping the leaf springs this weekend . I don't really want to raise the FW, but it seems I'm running out of options.

I've also noticed the Andersen hitch wont go any lower than 16.25 in. I'm looking at a Husky that will go to 14.25. That would be 2 in, but I really like the Andersen. It's light, doesn't take up much room and easy to hitch up.
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Old 05-09-2016, 08:57 PM   #8
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That's interesting about the height. I like my current hitch set up but it's so damn heavy and was thinking about picking up an Anderson. However, I only have 6 inches between my bed rails and am nose high. I'd be way high with the Anderson. I do have a Revolution pinbox but I can't see them being different heights?

As for trimming the fiberglass, I'd bet it's just cosmetic and once the pinbox is mounted up another hole, the trimmed fiberglass would look just like factory. Then again, I don't know for certain so don't hold me to that. Lol.
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:45 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davisenvy View Post
I just found this forum and didn't know it existed. Awesome! Maybe you guys can help.
I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 pulling the FW in the title. I am using an Andersen Ultimate hitch. My problem is that the FW is towing about 5 inches nose high. I have 8.5 inches of bed clearance to the FW and the pin box is adjusted all the way up. There is one hole left, but the pin box hits the fiberglass before I can reach the highest hole. I really don't want to raise the FW because of the outside kitchen. What set up are y'all using? Are these FW's really low or am I doing something wrong?
Did you upgrade to the 16 inch tires? I have a 2003 1500hd with a lift, and 33's and I sit about the same height as a stock 2500hd and my 29.5 rides pretty close to level. I chose to upgrade to the 16 inch tires on the camper and I also have the revolution pin box. I can get hitch measurements and clearences this weekend if you would like.
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:54 AM   #10
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I'm pretty sure I have the 15 inch wheels. I would probably let it ride high and wear these tires out before replacing just to get another inch. That is a good idea though.

Do any of you guys have your pin box adjusted all the way up? If so, are you able to clear the fiberglass on the nose?

For the record, from the ground to the top of my open tail gate is 36 inches, the same as a 2016 F150 4x4
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:16 AM   #11
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I'm pretty sure I have the 15 inch wheels. I would probably let it ride high and wear these tires out before replacing just to get another inch. That is a good idea though.

Do any of you guys have your pin box adjusted all the way up? If so, are you able to clear the fiberglass on the nose?

For the record, from the ground to the top of my open tail gate is 36 inches, the same as a 2016 F150 4x4
This is from another post that I did a while ago when I picked up my camper

"I took some measurements of my TV and FW both sitting on level ground. I opened my tailgate and from the ground to the top of the tailgate is 36 inches, my hitch from the bed to the top of the hitch is 16 inches. So all together my hitch plate is 52 inches off the ground. the bed rails are at 57 inches off the ground. Next I went to the FW and measured from the ground to the kingpin and it is at about 49 inches which is good because when I hook up the truck squats about 2 inches or so. This makes the whole set up level enough for me not to worry about it."
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:18 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by davisenvy View Post
I just found this forum and didn't know it existed. Awesome! Maybe you guys can help.
I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 pulling the FW in the title. I am using an Andersen Ultimate hitch. My problem is that the FW is towing about 5 inches nose high. I have 8.5 inches of bed clearance to the FW and the pin box is adjusted all the way up. There is one hole left, but the pin box hits the fiberglass before I can reach the highest hole. I really don't want to raise the FW because of the outside kitchen. What set up are y'all using? Are these FW's really low or am I doing something wrong?
I am having this exact same issue since my 29.5 BHDS since i upgraded my TV to a 2016 F250 = Nose high about 5 inches and the back trailer axle looks more stressed than the front axle.

Only difference from you (other than the truck Ford vs GM) is my hitch is a Model #2700 15K Pullrite Slider Hitch which seems to sit pretty high in my truck bed.

Other than trying to find another hitch that sits lower in my truck bed i think my only other option is to raise the sub-frame BUT wouldn't this totally raise the overall trailer height and will I will need new stairs with an extra step to get into the trailer?

I also thought of cutting into the fibreglass of trailer to raise the pinbox and like you, am not a fan!

I have my first trip of the season planned for May 20-22. I think i might just give it a whirl with the nose high and see how it works it and go from there.
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:46 AM   #13
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My tailgate is 36 in, my bed rails are 55 in from ground up. From the bed to top of my hitch ball is 16 in and from the ground up to the inside of the coupler that goes onto the ball is at 46in. 47 inches to the underside of the plate on the kingpin.

Is your kingpin adjusted all the way up on the very top holes? Your bigger tires help you out a good bit also.

GiddiYup,

Boy it does sound like we are in the same boat. I don't want to raise the trailer because of the outside kitchen and the step. I have towed my FW on several 30 mi trips here locally and it seemed to tow fine. I'm just not excited about towing in the FL heat with the rear axles so loaded.
You can adjust the leaf springs down one hole and it will raise the whole trailer about 2 inches. I think I will have to do this no matter what my hitch situation turns out to be.

Andersen just called me back and they said they can adjust the Andersen 3221 (which is for a flat bed goose) to fit my truck. This hitch is 4 inches lower at the lowest adjustment. The kicker is I paid the dealer $550 for my current Andersen and the Rep quoted me a total of right at $1,000 for this other hitch. I'm running out money pretty quick on this project.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:05 AM   #14
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Just a side comment - I'm not at all sure what truck Jayco designs the HT line for! When I got mine a couple of years ago, it also sat high with my F-150. Had to pay $800 extra for what the dealer called a "lift kit". The head mechanic said that all HT's used on Fords needed them. Of course, this was not disclosed in the sales process.......
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:47 AM   #15
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So it seems the problem lies more with the Jayco design rather than the hitch and kingpin selection. This is my first FW and is all new to me. I'm learning as I go.

So I either need a 10 in hitch from the bed to top of hitch or a truck with a truck that comes off the lot with 30 inches from open tailgate to the ground. I sure wish Jayco would comment on this. I absolutely love this FW except for this one issue.
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Old 05-10-2016, 10:23 AM   #16
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My 27.5bhs was 6+ inches nose high with my stock 2010 Ram 2500 which has a bed height that is very close to current half tons, so as pointed out it's NOT just a 2500 issue.

I ended up putting a net 5" subframe under mine and put on 16" wheels and am very satisfied with that setup. I don't have an outdoor kitchen, however it didn't mess up the step imho. The bottom step stock was very low (within a few inches of the ground). A couple times on off camber sites I had to shovel underneath the step. With the subframe the distance is similar to the distance between the other steps.

Here's a link that shows what I ended up doing.

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f6...t-18663-2.html
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Old 05-10-2016, 10:36 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Andersen just called me back and they said they can adjust the Andersen 3221 (which is for a flat bed goose) to fit my truck. This hitch is 4 inches lower at the lowest adjustment. The kicker is I paid the dealer $550 for my current Andersen and the Rep quoted me a total of right at $1,000 for this other hitch. I'm running out money pretty quick on this project.
If you lower you hitch 4", isn't that going to cause an issue with your bedrail clearance then? I have the standard kingpin, I raised it up 1 hole from the factory setting. I have the Andersen Ultimate II hitch, set on the lower setting. I have the FW rear suspension on the top holes. I think I'm sitting just under 3" nose-high and I'm ok with this. I'll have to double-check next time I'm hooked-up, but I think I have just barely under 6" clearance at the top of my rear tailgate, which is the highest point. I think I have closer to 7" on the side bedrails. I also ordered my FW with the 16" wheel upgrade package.
I think I'm going to install the Correct Track setup, which will gain me another 2" in height then I'll be all set.

Dave...
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Old 05-10-2016, 10:39 AM   #18
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That's a good idea, but I'm thinking I/we shouldn't have to do that to get our campers towing level.

The hitch they are offering to make me is 4 inches shorter overall, but the middle setting is at 14 inches. This would be 2 inches lower than my current Anderson will go and lower the nose 2 inches. This would leave me with 6.5 inches between the bed rails and the nose of the FW.
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Old 05-10-2016, 11:20 AM   #19
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Mine was nose high and I have the Resse Evo pin box and a Reese plate in the truck. I measure from the bottom of the fiberglass under the nose to the highest point on my truck, which it at the tailgate. There I have about 5 in of clearance between the top and the underneath. At that point I am about as level as I can get. I like about 5 in of clearance and then just let it ride as is, which comes out just about level.

Later I plan on putting on the 16" wheels to get better tires and I will see how that impacts...
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Old 05-10-2016, 11:35 AM   #20
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Mine was nose high and I have the Resse Evo pin box and a Reese plate in the truck. I measure from the bottom of the fiberglass under the nose to the highest point on my truck, which it at the tailgate. There I have about 5 in of clearance between the top and the underneath. At that point I am about as level as I can get. I like about 5 in of clearance and then just let it ride as is, which comes out just about level.

Later I plan on putting on the 16" wheels to get better tires and I will see how that impacts...


What did you do to fix it?
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