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09-02-2013, 12:06 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3
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Looking to purchase a used 5th wheel as a 1st time RVer.
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09-02-2013, 12:34 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Forest
Posts: 634
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The most important things to look for are signs of water leaks in the ceiling and side walls. Check the tires for sidewall cracking and for the four digit date code. The jury is mixed on how old they should be but around 7 years in my book should be near the upper limit. To be roadworthy, you need lights, good tires, wheel bearings recently packed and functioning brakes.
One of the most expensive appliances is the refrigerator. Check to determine if it is operational. If it smells of ammonia it's toast. Then check the other systems and appliances to determine if they are operational. Back in the late 90's when I was looking for my first RV it seemed like $5000 was the threshold for one that everything worked.
Good luck and yes, I think it could be a good deal.
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09-02-2013, 07:13 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Upperco, Md.
Posts: 807
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I would be very, very careful of any unit that is 18 years old and hasn't been recaulked or been in out of the sun for most of its life. If you are new to the game, I would pay someone in the business to inspect it for you. That much age could turn into quite a project if you don't know exactly what your looking for. It might be a good buy but assume right off that you are going to replace all the tires. Good luck, but be very careful!!!
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09-02-2013, 10:39 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3
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Thanks for the tips so far. I think I will get a mobile RV mechanic to inspect it for me. At this price, I think it'll be worth the investment and also I think I'll learn a lot.
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09-03-2013, 03:38 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Luray, VA (central Shenandoah Valley of VA)
Posts: 1,430
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Agree with the above. As for the tires, having had a bad experience with a set of Goodyear Marathons 7 years old and looking great, I would put the upper limit at 5 years age. One of my 7 year old tires blew out the sidewall sitting in the driveway, and another had a large bulge, ready to blow. I would recommend Maxxis brand for replacement.
__________________
2003 Ford F-350 V-10 Crew Cab 4WD Long Bed
2004 Jayco Designer Medallion 29 RLTS 5th wheel
Bill, Gayle, Teddy (Jack Russell terrier), and Honey (Beagle)
Retired at last !
Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
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09-03-2013, 07:02 AM
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#6
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 4,792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd2usa
Thanks for the tips so far. I think I will get a mobile RV mechanic to inspect it for me. At this price, I think it'll be worth the investment and also I think I'll learn a lot.
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Sounds like a great idea.
Doug
__________________
Cape Coral, Florida
2021 Toyota Tundra SR5, 5.7 V8
2022 Jayco 240RBS
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09-03-2013, 08:27 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinlizzie23
Agree with the above. As for the tires, having had a bad experience with a set of Goodyear Marathons 7 years old and looking great, I would put the upper limit at 5 years age. One of my 7 year old tires blew out the sidewall sitting in the driveway, and another had a large bulge, ready to blow. I would recommend Maxxis brand for replacement.
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I 2nd Maxxis tires ( any other Chinese brand is crap IMO and any 5 year old tire is a bomb), I currently have a set of Maxxis tires on my 1997 Jayco Eagle 285 that I purchased this year. The original tires were 1 year old Chinese-ers and showed no signs or dry rot or damage but one blew on the first trip. I crawled all over the RV before buying and told the seller I wanted to see everything work before I bought it for $6,000. It had a few issues that I needed to fix right away....BUT I will say this; these older model 1990ish Jaycos are built tougher than some of the newer ones are. I had a small 2006 Jayco TT before and fixed a roof leak and electrical issues on it. My current 1997 Jayco Eagle is somewhat dated on the inside (style and electronics) but it was very well kept and maintained. Like the others said, check it over well or have a RV mechanic do it. When I bought mine the seller had it all hooked up to water and power with the AC, fridge and water heater fired up. Those would be the biggest concerns to me: AC, Fridge, Water heater. Leaks are also a big deal but they are pretty easy to spot and smell on the inside. Open everything up and stick your head in as far as you can. Probably the most leak prone area to check is the front roof joint where the metal panels roll up and over the front hitch area to meet the rubber roof. I had issues there...used Eternabond tape to seal and now its been leak free for months. Extend and check the Awning at the edges and where the door swing likes to rip though it when not extended out all the way. Go up on the roof and look for repairs and damage. I would even take the TV and hook it up and make sure the lights and brakes work if you can.
In the 6 months we've had this 1997 model, I am still glad we bought it. I have begun to upgrade things like the radio, electrical outlets (put in GFCIs and USB), and changed all the light bulbs to LEDs. Changed out the older propane hoses to the hand tighten collar style. Changed the battery...there was a battery in it but the size was wrong...the tray would accept a Group 27 battery so thats what I got. Oh, and I just flipped the axles to get it level on the TV and to get proper bed clearance.
__________________
Bart and Tina
2001 Chevy 2500HD 6.0 Silverado 4x4-Banks Power
1997 Jayco Eagle 5er 285BHS-flipped axles
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09-05-2013, 08:34 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NW AR (God's Country)
Posts: 2,051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd2usa
Thanks for the tips so far. I think I will get a mobile RV mechanic to inspect it for me. At this price, I think it'll be worth the investment and also I think I'll learn a lot.
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True enough! If you buy it you will definitely "learn a lot" . Does the seller have any service records? It would be nice for you to know a little history.
__________________
Skip
2012 Eagle Super Lite HT 26.5RKS
2005 GMC 2500 SLT HD D/A
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09-05-2013, 11:59 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Rose Hill Ks.
Posts: 123
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One thing you didn't mention is what will you be pulling it with.Some of the 90's and almost all of the 80's trailers can weigh 2500lbs or more than the newer models of the same lenght'.I bought a 99 model fiver last year and it was to much for my truck.I just bought a 2010 model TT that is longer but 2800lbs lighter.
__________________
David S.
2010 298 RLS Eagle
99 Ford F-250
1 wife
2 spoiled cihuahua's
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09-07-2013, 08:10 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3
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I have a 2002 ford f150 v8 w/ 7700 lb rated towing package. Is it sufficient? Internet says that it weighs 4850 lbs.
Also they have 2 twin beds installed in the master bedroom. Is it easy to upgrade?
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09-07-2013, 03:56 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: White Bear Lake
Posts: 409
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There should be a sticker or plate, with the model number, etc. That will tell you the actual weight out the door from the factory - dry (no water, no propane, no extras). The important thing about your truck is the max load you can carry. There are lots more weight calculation you have to do to make sure you are safe. Here's one calculator: http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-...eight-fw.shtml. But, probably most restrictive will be the combination of what's in the truck - you, wife, dogs, kids, stuff and what's in the bed - hitch and weight on the hitch from the trailer. If you don't know the individual weights called for in the linked calculator, use their defaults as conservative safe numbers. I've got the tricked out newer f150, and even though the tow is rated 11,100 lbs, it was a challenge finding a fifth that didn't easily max out my payload capacity. And then there is the issue (if it is a short bed truck), and needing a slider hitch....
The beds? Very easy to upgrade, if you've done basic carpentry - built some bookshelves or utility cabinets, etc. from scratch. Overall - you're doing the equivalent of buying an older house. There WILL be many things to fix and/or upgrade. If you're a decent do-it-yourself'er most won't give you problems. But if your previous experience in home repairs or auto mechanics runs towards "call someone", it could be pricey.....
Just like buying a home - check for hidden issues (water leaks, etc), and make sure everything works! Search the formums for new RV checklists - they will give you a good start on what you need to look at.
__________________
2012 Ford F-150 Eco, SCrew, 4x4, MaxTow, HD Payload
SOB, used to be:Jayco 26.5 RLS
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09-13-2013, 10:41 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 100
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I highly doubt that 25 foot Jayco 5er weighs that little (4850#s). My 97 model Jayco 5er which is 28 feet weighs in at 7800 unloaded and loaded its close to 9000#s. I could see that 5er weighing around 6500-7000#s but would not beleive less than 5K. These models were not built as light as todays models at all. Check the sticker on the side if its still ledgible, for the GVWR and then subtract 1500-2000#s -OR- check the back side of the cabinet door under the kitchen sink inside. Mine still has the label there that states the dry-weight and load carrying capacity.
__________________
Bart and Tina
2001 Chevy 2500HD 6.0 Silverado 4x4-Banks Power
1997 Jayco Eagle 5er 285BHS-flipped axles
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