I did some more testing on my brakes.
Pulled the pin.. I can pull the trailer forwards or backwards at 1200rpm. It feels firm but it's fairly easy to pull. It's about the same amount of force, pulling the pin, as squeezing the manual slider.
According to Lippert each mags should be at 3.2 ohms. Math says in parallel that would equal .8 ohms.
Lipperts specs then are... total resistance (.8 ohms) at 12.5v (my controller's max output) equals 15.6amps.
eTrailer's brake system check says brakes should be pulling 15-16.3 amps.
Sounds like good braking to me.
I checked my magnet's total resistance with a multimeter. I didn't detach any of the wires, I just checked them hooked up in parallel from the first magnet. 1.2 ohms.
My trailer's magnets total resistance is 1.2ohms, so at 12.5v that equals 10.4a.
(12.5v is what my truck controller puts out with the trailer hooked up)
The current number (10.4a) is figured only with math. Not a meter reading.
That sounds like weak braking.
Next I just used the trailer with the trailer's battery. With real meter readings.
10.4a on the meter with 11.5v, on the meter, when the brakes are powered.
With math that equals 1.1ohms in total resistance. Very close to my previously measured 1.2 ohms.
Taking into account I'm not using Fluke meters, and my cheap meter's accuracy isn't that great, my conclusion is the total resistance is too high.
Either bad connections at the splices or a bad magnet or all bad magnets, or a combination of all three.
I don't have enough current going to the magnets to get powerful braking.
Hopefully Lippert will authorize my dealer for a full brake swap.
2016 North Point 341RLTS
2012 F-350 Lariat CC SRW