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07-29-2013, 09:19 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bryant, Ar
Posts: 5
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New member with cabinet problems.
Hello everyone...Wife and I have 2013 351 RLTS for about a year now with few minor issues. So far we love it. Have had it on one long trip to Creede Colorado, one of our favorite places, as well as many short trips to our favorite lake in Arkansas. Our issue is with the cabinet doors. The spring loaded hinges are very strong and several of the doors have come off in our hands..They have been back to the dealer once to be fitted with longer screws now to only be happening again. It's somewhat of a disappointment because the high quality of the Amish craftsmanship of the cabinets and wood trim. Has anyone had similar issue. I'm reluctant to let the dealership mess with them again at this point. Thanks for any comments..
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07-30-2013, 06:46 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 261
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Welcome to the JOF!
I take it the hinge is pulling out due to the resistance in the spring loaded hinge? I have to be honest in that I haven't seen this as i don't have that type of setup. I have had other minor issues with my cabinets.
Anyway I thought I'd bump the thread to see if anyone else with something similar will notice and reply....
-Chak
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07-30-2013, 07:06 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bryant, Ar
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chakara
Welcome to the JOF!
I take it the hinge is pulling out due to the resistance in the spring loaded hinge? I have to be honest in that I haven't seen this as i don't have that type of setup. I have had other minor issues with my cabinets.
Anyway I thought I'd bump the thread to see if anyone else with something similar will notice and reply....
-Chak
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Thanks for the reply...I was beginning to believe that everyone must think I'm a troll. Yes that is exactly what's happening and pulling the screws right out of the wood.
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07-30-2013, 08:48 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Mostly the US
Posts: 10,002
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Welcome to the JOF the pamp3! I see you posted this last night... sorry no mods/admin were able to welcome you sooner. I am moving your thread to the 5th Wheel thread as it is more of a 'cabinet issue' thread and might get more interest regarding your specific concern there than it will in the 'new member' thread. I hope things work out better with your dealer. Contact Jayco direct with concerns that your dealer isn't able to resolve. Personally, where our dealer didn't deal well with a warranty issue, Jayco was able to hook us up with a local company to get warranty work done satisfactorily. Hope this helps
__________________
Denise, DH, grandkids, and two rescue pups
-2016 Jay Flight 29QBS Elite
-2016 Ford F-250 XLT 4x2, 6.2L EFI V8, 4.30 Elec Lock, Heavy duty Alt
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07-31-2013, 03:36 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 141
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I would call the factory and get their input on the problem. If the problem has happened to another owner they may have the best way to correct the problem.
Don
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07-31-2013, 07:16 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bryant, Ar
Posts: 5
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Thanks guys ill do that today...
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07-31-2013, 04:44 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,229
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I had the same issue with a couple of overhead cabinets. I used longer screws which seems to have solved the problem.
__________________
2019 Airstream Flying Cloud 27FB
2012 321RLTS Eagle (sold)
2011 F350 CC SB
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07-31-2013, 05:16 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Le Sueur, MN
Posts: 104
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My cabinet doors were installed with only one screw in each hinge. The hinges didn't come off but I made sure to install more screws so it didn't happen.
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07-31-2013, 05:26 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ottawa Valley
Posts: 403
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We have a 2012 321RLTS and after taking ownership end of May last year, we only had 2 weeks before we left on a 4 week tour of Newfoundland. The first stop was in Edmundston, New Brunswick. The 3 doors over the couch were off their hinges. The couch had slid to the rear of the slide out and pushed the end block off of the slide out trim bottom and destroyed it. To date I have rehung 90% of the doors due to the same issue.
It seems to be 2 problems. The screws that hang the doors and that are into the face frame are over torqued and have stripped in the particle board that makes up the core of the face frame. The plastic anchors that hold the screws for the hinge in the bored holes of the door sash, eventually come out maybe because the holes are slightly oversized and the difference in interior temperatures in the 5er allow them to move as a result of the tension from the hinge.
I fixed the screws in the face frame problem by filling the holes in the face frame with pine plugs the diameter and depth of the hole, that I carved from a pieces in my shop. I put glue in the holes and on the plug and then tap it in to the hole. After they dry I re install the screws. Now there is solid wood for the screw to bite into.
I fixed the plastic anchor issue by removing the hinges and the anchors from the sash, paying attention to the position of the anchor upon removal. The anchor is a rectangle and has to be oriented properly to fit under the hinge for re installation. I put glue in the bored hole and on the anchor and push it into place. After they dry I re install the hinges on the sash and then re hang the door. I use Weldbond white glue that is water proof and can be used for many purposes. It can adhere to the plastic and wood to help prevent further movement. It has worked so far.
The dealer is an hour and a half away so it makes sense for me to do the repair. However, I have kept him in the loop and Jayco has sent a follow up survey and I will continue to keep them updated and provide positive suggestions for the future.
__________________
Married To The Navigator
2005 Red GMC Duramax 4X4 HD Crew Cab
2018 North Point 315RLTS
4" Magnaflow, Banks Air Intake
Firestone Ride Rite Air Springs
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07-31-2013, 06:22 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bryant, Ar
Posts: 5
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Thank you very much...This is exactly the info I need... Sounds like you are a lot handier than myself but with your good explanation I feel comfortable giving it a shot...Thanks again!
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07-31-2013, 07:12 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ottawa Valley
Posts: 403
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If you don't want to make the wood pieces to fill the holes in the face frame you can use the oversized wooden bbq skewers that look like giant toothpicks that you can buy, they are about 1/8 to 3/16" in diameter. Push them in and cut them off. Sometimes snapping them just pulls the piece out due to their flexibility. They shouldn't split the face frame if they are slightly oversized. It is important to push or tap them in the full depth of the screw and hole. There is only one screw per hinge but because of the weight of the doors it helps if your assistant holds them while you re install. There is a slot where the screw fits through the hinge so you can adjust the right to left alignment to cover the face frame opening symmetrical. Also check the piston position before you remove the overhead doors. When the installers put the doors in the sometime missed the center of the face frame thickness and when the door closes it lifts the top of the door away from the face frame causing the piston mount and hinge screws to strip. Jayco should be using button head screws that have a flat bottom to properly hold the hinges in place. Instead they use a screw that has a tapered bottom side that allows the hinge to move and distorts the slot and bends the metal at that point. In some of the doors the installer obviously realized the screw was stripped and put in a second one that split the face frame.If you over apply the glue just wipe it off with a rag. If need be use a damp rag to clean the sash where the glue might bleed out. Glad to help.
__________________
Married To The Navigator
2005 Red GMC Duramax 4X4 HD Crew Cab
2018 North Point 315RLTS
4" Magnaflow, Banks Air Intake
Firestone Ride Rite Air Springs
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08-04-2013, 08:06 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bryant, Ar
Posts: 5
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So stick with one screw per hinge as to not run the risk of splitting the frame?
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08-05-2013, 07:20 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ottawa Valley
Posts: 403
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To prevent splitting wood, in general, you can drill a pilot hole with a smaller diameter drill bit. That way there is a minimum of intrusion with the screws that close together. You would think that the particle board core wouldn't split but mine did when the second one was put in at the factory. Also the tapered bottom of the screw head will split the wood if it distorts the slot enough, from over torquing. The solution would be to replace the screws with flat bottom heads. I think that after I filled the holes with a wooden plug and glue it would not require a second screw.
__________________
Married To The Navigator
2005 Red GMC Duramax 4X4 HD Crew Cab
2018 North Point 315RLTS
4" Magnaflow, Banks Air Intake
Firestone Ride Rite Air Springs
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08-10-2013, 07:53 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 795
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I had one of our overhead cabinets do the same. I purchased an epoxy wood filler, like this.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...8&site=ROCKLER
It worked like a charm, was an easy fix and has lasted us over a year.
Hope this helps.
Mary Anne
__________________
Joe and Mary Anne
1 20 yr old DD
2014 Ram 2500 Diesel Laramie Mega Cab 4 X 4
2011 Jayco Jay Flight 26RLS-Sold
2014 Jayco Eagle 298 RLDS
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08-10-2013, 02:47 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 336
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When my cabinet doors pulled out of the wood, I used match sticks, with some Guerrilla glue.
You have to be careful because you have to wet the match sticks, and the glue foams by design. This will fill any void around the screw and match stick, so you want to make sure not to use enough that it will seep out of the hole around the screw and get on anything.
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