Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
Jayco RV Owners Forum
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-07-2013, 06:49 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
troutslayer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NW AR (God's Country)
Posts: 2,051
Question No heat in bedroom

Does anyone out there have a fiver like mine with very low (like non-existent) air flow out of the bedroom heater vent? If so, were you able to remedy this? If not, any suggestions? We have tons of flow out of the main area registers, a little out of the bathroom one but none (as mentioned) in the bedroom.
__________________
Skip

2012 Eagle Super Lite HT 26.5RKS
2005 GMC 2500 SLT HD D/A
troutslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2013, 07:15 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Larry G.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Reno (home base) Winter Eloy, AZ
Posts: 988
No problems here.

How long has that been going on?
__________________

2012 Pinnacle 36KPTS - Kitchen Pantry Triple Slide
Mor/Ryde suspension and pin box, Dual pane windows, Auto Leveling System, 2 A/C's, Sailun G's and more...
View photos

Our Trip Journal
Larry G. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2013, 07:22 PM   #3
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 5
I have a 2013 Eagle HT 26.5 RLS and have the same condtion. I was told by Camping World that there is nothing that can be done that as per the design the bedroom is further away from the furnace and hence little air flow.. Not sure i buy this.. Please let me know if you find a solution..
gpscoqn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2013, 08:50 PM   #4
Moderator Emeritus
 
Doug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 4,792
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpscoqn View Post
I have a 2013 Eagle HT 26.5 RLS and have the same condtion. I was told by Camping World that there is nothing that can be done that as per the design the bedroom is further away from the furnace and hence little air flow.. Not sure i buy this.. Please let me know if you find a solution..
Seems like with dampers, you could easily push air that far.
I have read posts here where people found construction debris in ducts and joints gaped open.

I would see if I could get someone to stick a camera down each duct.

JMHO,
Doug
__________________

Cape Coral, Florida
2021 Toyota Tundra SR5, 5.7 V8
2022 Jayco 240RBS
Doug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2013, 09:59 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Larry G.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Reno (home base) Winter Eloy, AZ
Posts: 988
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpscoqn View Post
I have a 2013 Eagle HT 26.5 RLS and have the same condtion. I was told by Camping World that there is nothing that can be done that as per the design the bedroom is further away from the furnace and hence little air flow.. Not sure i buy this.. Please let me know if you find a solution..
Guess a call to Jayco might be in order.
__________________

2012 Pinnacle 36KPTS - Kitchen Pantry Triple Slide
Mor/Ryde suspension and pin box, Dual pane windows, Auto Leveling System, 2 A/C's, Sailun G's and more...
View photos

Our Trip Journal
Larry G. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2013, 10:23 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 607
We have a 2012 26.5 RLS and really haven't noticed a huge lack of air flow to the bedroom. Haven't used the furnace much, only camp in the summer so far, but it has been sufficient to warm the bedroom in the morning when we are planning on getting up. Now, the AC doesn't drive us out of the bedroom but that's a different problem and not asked on this thread. Might be as simple as taking the little cover off and reaching back into the "hose" to see if there is something that can be moved around to allow greater air flow. Might also shut off the bathroom vent as that one has a great deal of air flow in ours, but I keep it closed as don't need that much air flow in the bathroom.
__________________
2012 GMC 2500HD D/A Crewcab
2012 Jayco Eagle SuperLite HT 26.5 RLS
2009 Crestliner Superhawk 1900
2013 Polaris Sportsman 550 EXP
2008 Polaris Sportsman 700 X2
jal0710 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2013, 07:10 AM   #7
Member
 
Ken&Ruth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 67
My bathroom vent belches out the hot air like crazy (furnace is under the bathroom). The vent for the bedroom, not so much. You mention closing the bathroom vent. How do you do this as there are not options to close the vent. No slider on the vents at all. I wouldn't want to close it completely, but maybe 1/2.
__________________
2013 Pinnacle 36 REQS
2011 F350 Ford Super Duty Dually with crew cub
Dogs are not my whole life but they made my life whole.
https://fivejustrolling.blogspot.com/
Ken&Ruth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2013, 07:29 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Cosmik Debris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Missoula, Montana
Posts: 704
On our 2013 29.5RKS we found that the duct was not fully onto the actual vent elbow near the bed. I was able to pull the two screws and fumble the thing fully on. Another spot that I felt was weak back there is that the duct sags near the very front basement access before it turns upward to the bedroom. I'm always worried that I'll tear or rip off that section when loading (always) heavy and awkward items.
If all ducts/vents are checked out fine then I'd say its purely a flow/pressure situation and may need to close some other vents a bit to allow the pressure to blow that far. I guess that the furnace fan could also be dirty and not as efficient.
Cosmik Debris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2013, 08:09 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
troutslayer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NW AR (God's Country)
Posts: 2,051
Thanks for all the replies. It has not worked properly since we bought the unit new. I'm on my way over there today to take off the access panels in the basement area and look for any hose kinks. The bathroom vent does have a close feature on it and I did partially close it in order to create more air movement in the bedroom but it didn't really make much difference. Besides, DW says that it's nice to have a warm "tush" when in the bathroom . Will post what I find later on today.
__________________
Skip

2012 Eagle Super Lite HT 26.5RKS
2005 GMC 2500 SLT HD D/A
troutslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2013, 09:01 AM   #10
Moderator Emeritus
 
Doug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 4,792
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken&Ruth View Post
My bathroom vent belches out the hot air like crazy (furnace is under the bathroom). The vent for the bedroom, not so much. You mention closing the bathroom vent. How do you do this as there are not options to close the vent. No slider on the vents at all. I wouldn't want to close it completely, but maybe 1/2.
At home, I have taken the register off and taped off from the back side.
That may be an option for you.

Doug
__________________

Cape Coral, Florida
2021 Toyota Tundra SR5, 5.7 V8
2022 Jayco 240RBS
Doug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2013, 09:36 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
troutslayer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NW AR (God's Country)
Posts: 2,051
Well, I took off all the panels in the basement and got a good look at the ductwork. There were no obstructions but a multitude of bends in the bedroom duct. The bathroom register is the only one that has a damper on it so my thought was to replace that one with the one closest to the furnace. However, the ductwork is glued to the vents and looks like a real pain to remove. My bottom line on this is that the furnace blower motor is too weak to supply any kind of air force all the way to the front of the unit. Next step...electric blanket
__________________
Skip

2012 Eagle Super Lite HT 26.5RKS
2005 GMC 2500 SLT HD D/A
troutslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2013, 08:38 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
dzwiss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,229
We use an electric blanket when hooked up and a down comforter when boondocking. Our bedroom heat works well, but we usually use an electric heater when hooked up and a Mr. Heater when not. We feel there is little point in heating the bedroom.
__________________

2019 Airstream Flying Cloud 27FB
2012 321RLTS Eagle (sold)
2011 F350 CC SB
dzwiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2013, 09:17 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Boubou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 626
I would prefer LESS heat in our bedroom and more in the bathroom.
We have the HT 23.5 with rear bath and the bedroom is just behind the furnace. HOT!
__________________
2013 Jayco Eagle HT 23.5
2010 Ram QC 1500 Hemi
Sheltie, Chihuahua and Terrier/Chihuahua rescue
https://3dogsandacamper.tumblr.com
Boubou is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2013, 04:13 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 121
You might want to be careful in closing off vents. If the furnace cant push the air out of the heat chamber you could get into an overheated chamber and the furnace would shutdown, all being well. If you can access the area where the vents attach to the furnace make sure the bedroom is at the topmost position, this has the most heat and all the joins there, at least on mine are not very air tight. My issue is little air flow to the main living area, again the furthest point from the furnace. Its a design issue.
__________________
Barry and Lisa
with 2 Tollers!

2016 F350 PSD
2010 Jayco 30.5 RLS
Bearles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2013, 08:17 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
troutslayer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NW AR (God's Country)
Posts: 2,051
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearles View Post
Its a design issue.
Agreed!
__________________
Skip

2012 Eagle Super Lite HT 26.5RKS
2005 GMC 2500 SLT HD D/A
troutslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2013, 08:45 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Threebutchers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 6,818
You can buy duct fans in all shapes, sizes and voltages. They are frequently used in applications where extended runs and back pressure affect airflow. You install them to come on and off with the furnace fan.

Had numerous photo examples ready to upload...but I'm on a different computer and the forum picture utility doesn't like my browser (or vice-versa)
Threebutchers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2013, 07:51 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Threebutchers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 6,818
Duct Fans - internal and external...

Name:  41+J2nAuALL._SL500_AA300_1.jpg
Views: 23
Size:  17.1 KB Name:  AAAAAiVR4rMAAAAAAQpR0Q.jpg
Views: 24
Size:  18.5 KB Name:  c4ffae5e-2b67-49e2-a70c-6c282db28532.jpg
Views: 22
Size:  63.8 KB Click image for larger version

Name:	tjernlund-rb10-duct-booster-fan.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	18.3 KB
ID:	10744 Click image for larger version

Name:	in-line-duct-fan.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	72.6 KB
ID:	10745
Attached Thumbnails
frd-20-10-20x10-inline-rectangular-low-profile-duct-fan-1-013-cfm.jpg  
Threebutchers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2013, 03:49 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
troutslayer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NW AR (God's Country)
Posts: 2,051
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threebutchers View Post
You can buy duct fans in all shapes, sizes and voltages. They are frequently used in applications where extended runs and back pressure affect airflow. You install them to come on and off with the furnace fan.

Had numerous photo examples ready to upload...but I'm on a different computer and the forum picture utility doesn't like my browser (or vice-versa)
Thanks for the info! I'll look into one of those in-line units. The unit that adds on to the outside would not work cuz the vent is right at the foot of the bed and it would stick out too far. They only give about a foot of walking room there so I'd be stubbing my toe all the time...wait a minute, DW would be stubbing her toe all the time (on her side of the bed )
__________________
Skip

2012 Eagle Super Lite HT 26.5RKS
2005 GMC 2500 SLT HD D/A
troutslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2013, 04:23 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 552
1. A 2012 trailer should still be under warranty. Get the dealer to fix it.

2. There's no way that the furnace fan should have a problem getting air to the front bedroom of a 26' trailer, especially if the furnace is located somewhere near the middle of the trailer. You have either:

1. Duct slipped off the ring at the furnace.

2. Duct has come loose or is torn between the furnace and the register.

3. The duct has an excessive amount of bends or some kinks and needs to be re-routed/straightened. This will require that the coroplast be dropped under the trailer so you can inspect the entire length of duct, should you decide to do it yourself.

Don't block off existing registers trying to force heat to the front. This can create a dangerous condition in the furnace.
__________________
2010 22FB(Ret)
2013 F250 XLT
I now have a Keystone Outback, but I try to help when I can.
---------------------
Bitter Gun Owner
Bitter Clinger
Armed Infidel
Bob Landry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2013, 10:41 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
troutslayer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NW AR (God's Country)
Posts: 2,051
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
1. A 2012 trailer should still be under warranty. Get the dealer to fix it.

2. There's no way that the furnace fan should have a problem getting air to the front bedroom of a 26' trailer, especially if the furnace is located somewhere near the middle of the trailer. You have either:

1. Duct slipped off the ring at the furnace.



2. Duct has come loose or is torn between the furnace and the register.

3. The duct has an excessive amount of bends or some kinks and needs to be re-routed/straightened. This will require that the coroplast be dropped under the trailer so you can inspect the entire length of duct, should you decide to do it yourself.

Don't block off existing registers trying to force heat to the front. This can create a dangerous condition in the furnace.

Even though the model is an HT26.5 it is actually 30' long and the furnace is as far to the rear of the RV as it can get so it is a long way to the front. Our previous SOB had a mid-unit furnace that did a pretty good job of distributing heat evenly. I've been able to inspect all but about 8 feet of the ductwork and there are no tears in the sections I can see and all ductwork is securely connected to the furnace and registers. As for bends...WOW there are a lot of bends but I see no way of re-routing any of the ductwork. There's just too much "stuff" cramed in there. I would never cover one duct in order to supply more air to other parts of the RV. However, I am wondering why the supply register in the bathroom has a damper and can be closed off completely. Maybe I'll call the manufacturer about that one.
Your advice about taking it to a dealer for warranty work may be the answer...but for now, the short term answer is electric blanket
Thanks!
__________________
Skip

2012 Eagle Super Lite HT 26.5RKS
2005 GMC 2500 SLT HD D/A
troutslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Jayco, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:28 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2002-2016 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.