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10-07-2013, 06:49 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NW AR (God's Country)
Posts: 2,051
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No heat in bedroom
Does anyone out there have a fiver like mine with very low (like non-existent) air flow out of the bedroom heater vent? If so, were you able to remedy this? If not, any suggestions? We have tons of flow out of the main area registers, a little out of the bathroom one but none (as mentioned) in the bedroom.
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2012 Eagle Super Lite HT 26.5RKS
2005 GMC 2500 SLT HD D/A
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10-07-2013, 07:15 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Reno (home base) Winter Eloy, AZ
Posts: 988
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No problems here.
How long has that been going on?
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10-07-2013, 07:22 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 5
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I have a 2013 Eagle HT 26.5 RLS and have the same condtion. I was told by Camping World that there is nothing that can be done that as per the design the bedroom is further away from the furnace and hence little air flow.. Not sure i buy this.. Please let me know if you find a solution..
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10-07-2013, 08:50 PM
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#4
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 4,792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpscoqn
I have a 2013 Eagle HT 26.5 RLS and have the same condtion. I was told by Camping World that there is nothing that can be done that as per the design the bedroom is further away from the furnace and hence little air flow.. Not sure i buy this.. Please let me know if you find a solution..
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Seems like with dampers, you could easily push air that far.
I have read posts here where people found construction debris in ducts and joints gaped open.
I would see if I could get someone to stick a camera down each duct.
JMHO,
Doug
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10-07-2013, 09:59 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Reno (home base) Winter Eloy, AZ
Posts: 988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpscoqn
I have a 2013 Eagle HT 26.5 RLS and have the same condtion. I was told by Camping World that there is nothing that can be done that as per the design the bedroom is further away from the furnace and hence little air flow.. Not sure i buy this.. Please let me know if you find a solution..
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Guess a call to Jayco might be in order.
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10-07-2013, 10:23 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 607
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We have a 2012 26.5 RLS and really haven't noticed a huge lack of air flow to the bedroom. Haven't used the furnace much, only camp in the summer so far, but it has been sufficient to warm the bedroom in the morning when we are planning on getting up. Now, the AC doesn't drive us out of the bedroom but that's a different problem and not asked on this thread. Might be as simple as taking the little cover off and reaching back into the "hose" to see if there is something that can be moved around to allow greater air flow. Might also shut off the bathroom vent as that one has a great deal of air flow in ours, but I keep it closed as don't need that much air flow in the bathroom.
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10-08-2013, 07:10 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 67
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My bathroom vent belches out the hot air like crazy (furnace is under the bathroom). The vent for the bedroom, not so much. You mention closing the bathroom vent. How do you do this as there are not options to close the vent. No slider on the vents at all. I wouldn't want to close it completely, but maybe 1/2.
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10-08-2013, 07:29 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Missoula, Montana
Posts: 704
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On our 2013 29.5RKS we found that the duct was not fully onto the actual vent elbow near the bed. I was able to pull the two screws and fumble the thing fully on. Another spot that I felt was weak back there is that the duct sags near the very front basement access before it turns upward to the bedroom. I'm always worried that I'll tear or rip off that section when loading (always) heavy and awkward items.
If all ducts/vents are checked out fine then I'd say its purely a flow/pressure situation and may need to close some other vents a bit to allow the pressure to blow that far. I guess that the furnace fan could also be dirty and not as efficient.
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10-08-2013, 08:09 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NW AR (God's Country)
Posts: 2,051
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Thanks for all the replies. It has not worked properly since we bought the unit new. I'm on my way over there today to take off the access panels in the basement area and look for any hose kinks. The bathroom vent does have a close feature on it and I did partially close it in order to create more air movement in the bedroom but it didn't really make much difference. Besides, DW says that it's nice to have a warm "tush" when in the bathroom . Will post what I find later on today.
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2012 Eagle Super Lite HT 26.5RKS
2005 GMC 2500 SLT HD D/A
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10-08-2013, 09:01 AM
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#10
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 4,792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken&Ruth
My bathroom vent belches out the hot air like crazy (furnace is under the bathroom). The vent for the bedroom, not so much. You mention closing the bathroom vent. How do you do this as there are not options to close the vent. No slider on the vents at all. I wouldn't want to close it completely, but maybe 1/2.
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At home, I have taken the register off and taped off from the back side.
That may be an option for you.
Doug
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Cape Coral, Florida
2021 Toyota Tundra SR5, 5.7 V8
2022 Jayco 240RBS
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10-09-2013, 09:36 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NW AR (God's Country)
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Well, I took off all the panels in the basement and got a good look at the ductwork. There were no obstructions but a multitude of bends in the bedroom duct. The bathroom register is the only one that has a damper on it so my thought was to replace that one with the one closest to the furnace. However, the ductwork is glued to the vents and looks like a real pain to remove. My bottom line on this is that the furnace blower motor is too weak to supply any kind of air force all the way to the front of the unit. Next step...electric blanket
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2012 Eagle Super Lite HT 26.5RKS
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10-09-2013, 08:38 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,229
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We use an electric blanket when hooked up and a down comforter when boondocking. Our bedroom heat works well, but we usually use an electric heater when hooked up and a Mr. Heater when not. We feel there is little point in heating the bedroom.
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12-13-2013, 09:17 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 626
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I would prefer LESS heat in our bedroom and more in the bathroom.
We have the HT 23.5 with rear bath and the bedroom is just behind the furnace. HOT!
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12-18-2013, 04:13 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 121
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You might want to be careful in closing off vents. If the furnace cant push the air out of the heat chamber you could get into an overheated chamber and the furnace would shutdown, all being well. If you can access the area where the vents attach to the furnace make sure the bedroom is at the topmost position, this has the most heat and all the joins there, at least on mine are not very air tight. My issue is little air flow to the main living area, again the furthest point from the furnace. Its a design issue.
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12-19-2013, 08:17 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NW AR (God's Country)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearles
Its a design issue.
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Agreed!
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12-19-2013, 08:45 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 6,818
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You can buy duct fans in all shapes, sizes and voltages. They are frequently used in applications where extended runs and back pressure affect airflow. You install them to come on and off with the furnace fan.
Had numerous photo examples ready to upload...but I'm on a different computer and the forum picture utility doesn't like my browser (or vice-versa)
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12-20-2013, 07:51 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Planet Earth
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12-20-2013, 03:49 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NW AR (God's Country)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threebutchers
You can buy duct fans in all shapes, sizes and voltages. They are frequently used in applications where extended runs and back pressure affect airflow. You install them to come on and off with the furnace fan.
Had numerous photo examples ready to upload...but I'm on a different computer and the forum picture utility doesn't like my browser (or vice-versa)
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Thanks for the info! I'll look into one of those in-line units. The unit that adds on to the outside would not work cuz the vent is right at the foot of the bed and it would stick out too far. They only give about a foot of walking room there so I'd be stubbing my toe all the time...wait a minute, DW would be stubbing her toe all the time (on her side of the bed )
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12-20-2013, 04:23 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 552
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1. A 2012 trailer should still be under warranty. Get the dealer to fix it.
2. There's no way that the furnace fan should have a problem getting air to the front bedroom of a 26' trailer, especially if the furnace is located somewhere near the middle of the trailer. You have either:
1. Duct slipped off the ring at the furnace.
2. Duct has come loose or is torn between the furnace and the register.
3. The duct has an excessive amount of bends or some kinks and needs to be re-routed/straightened. This will require that the coroplast be dropped under the trailer so you can inspect the entire length of duct, should you decide to do it yourself.
Don't block off existing registers trying to force heat to the front. This can create a dangerous condition in the furnace.
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12-21-2013, 10:41 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NW AR (God's Country)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Landry
1. A 2012 trailer should still be under warranty. Get the dealer to fix it.
2. There's no way that the furnace fan should have a problem getting air to the front bedroom of a 26' trailer, especially if the furnace is located somewhere near the middle of the trailer. You have either:
1. Duct slipped off the ring at the furnace.
2. Duct has come loose or is torn between the furnace and the register.
3. The duct has an excessive amount of bends or some kinks and needs to be re-routed/straightened. This will require that the coroplast be dropped under the trailer so you can inspect the entire length of duct, should you decide to do it yourself.
Don't block off existing registers trying to force heat to the front. This can create a dangerous condition in the furnace.
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Even though the model is an HT26.5 it is actually 30' long and the furnace is as far to the rear of the RV as it can get so it is a long way to the front. Our previous SOB had a mid-unit furnace that did a pretty good job of distributing heat evenly. I've been able to inspect all but about 8 feet of the ductwork and there are no tears in the sections I can see and all ductwork is securely connected to the furnace and registers. As for bends...WOW there are a lot of bends but I see no way of re-routing any of the ductwork. There's just too much "stuff" cramed in there. I would never cover one duct in order to supply more air to other parts of the RV. However, I am wondering why the supply register in the bathroom has a damper and can be closed off completely. Maybe I'll call the manufacturer about that one.
Your advice about taking it to a dealer for warranty work may be the answer...but for now, the short term answer is electric blanket
Thanks!
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