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Old 11-02-2016, 09:40 PM   #1
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Residential fridge or not

Ok, we are in the process of ordering a 355MBQS, we know we are at least getting the 12 cu ft RV fridge. We are debating the 23 cu ft residential fridge though. We travel with our camper, it is not seasonal. Sometimes we only travel an hour so the residential will work great. Other times we travel big, have done an 18 hour driving day in the past. Does the residential fridge charge off of the truck? If it doesn't, how long will the batteries last? Any opinions from folks that have the residential fridge, how does it work for you? Thanks in adavance.
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:57 PM   #2
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If there is an inverter which I think there is, it should run just fine, hooked to the truck should charge so. If you always have hookups can't see it being an issue, I boon dock so wouldn't be good for me.

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Old 11-02-2016, 10:04 PM   #3
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As much as I would like to say the comercial fridge is the wrong decision the facts are if you are not going to be with out hookups you will be ok with the residential fridge. If the fridge is not opened it will maintain safe cool temperatures all day. On hot days run the inverter for a couple of hours while driving and the batteries charging from the truck. You can always supplement the food storage by using freezer packs. I don't always have hookups so the residential fridge is a non starter for me, you case is different.
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Old 11-02-2016, 10:35 PM   #4
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We don't boondock, but we do Walmart camp when on our big trips. Usually only for 4-6 hours to sleep. It does come with a 1000W inverter dedicated to the fridge.
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Old 11-03-2016, 05:20 AM   #5
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The charge circuit from the truck isn't much amperage to do the small gauge wiring and distance. I'm sure that the charge circuit wouldn't keep up with the inverter draw and it would deplete the coach battery or batteries on a long trip. Inverters draw a lot of current. Granted the fridge will cycle but on a long trip and if hot you may find the voltage will get low enough to trip out the inverter. Just my thoughts as an electrical guy.


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Old 11-03-2016, 06:37 AM   #6
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X2 on Mopar Earl's comments. The charging system from the truck is only designed to keep the emergency breakaway battery topped up. Don't expect the 20-30 amps (@12VDC) it'll take to run a residential fridge from the tow vehicle.


As others have mentioned, we generally boondock and the gas fridge has served quit well. I even use it to make ice for the coolers.
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:09 AM   #7
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Aside from the electrical debate, personally I prefer an RV fridge over residential. I've been in plugged into share power during a power outage. One great thing about these campers is you can have the convenience of home anywhere. If you loose power with a residential fridge you have less options.

I'm sure either way you go is a winner. Personally I think the RV fridge just gives you more options with the propane back up.
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Old 11-03-2016, 08:41 AM   #8
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The charge circuit is fused at 30 amps so let's say because of small wires you can only draw 15 running the inverter to power the fridge for two hours should not deplete your batteries. No I have not gathered all the data to prove the point.
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Old 11-03-2016, 08:54 AM   #9
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Thanks for all the replies. So does anyone have real world experience with a residential fridge? No offense to anyway, but I would really like to hear from someone that actually has the refrigerator and experience with it. Thanks,
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Old 11-03-2016, 09:10 AM   #10
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Thanks for all the replies. So does anyone have real world experience with a residential fridge? No offense to anyway, but I would really like to hear from someone that actually has the refrigerator and experience with it. Thanks,
We recommend you spend a few minutes and search and read on the same topic over at http://www.irv2.com.
There are many owners there who purchased coaches that were built as full electric or those who were tired of their Norcold's and replaced them with residential units.
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:14 AM   #11
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The charge circuit is fused at 30 amps so let's say because of small wires you can only draw 15 running the inverter to power the fridge for two hours should not deplete your batteries. No I have not gathered all the data to prove the point.
Two hours isn't a long trip. The fridge should hold its own for two hours. To read amps, use an amp clamp on the charge circuit close to the battery and put load on the system and you'll see how many amps your truck will dump into your battery. I wouldn't be surprised if it's under 15 amps. That's a long run at only 10 gauge wire if lucky. It's probably 12 gauge.


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Old 11-03-2016, 10:21 AM   #12
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Hi abarkl,

I've been on the irv2 forum, seems most of the threads are about how to replace the fridge or if the batteries will last, doesn't seem like anyone with a residential has said "I drive 18 hours and and it charges just fine". Of if they do someone else says their batteries only lasted 4 hours while driving. right now it is ordered with the 12 cu ft RV fridge. I think I'm going to stick with that since it is more of a known.
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:30 AM   #13
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Hi abarkl,

I've been on the irv2 forum, seems most of the threads are about how to replace the fridge or if the batteries will last, doesn't seem like anyone with a residential has said "I drive 18 hours and and it charges just fine". Of if they do someone else says their batteries only lasted 4 hours while driving. right now it is ordered with the 12 cu ft RV fridge. I think I'm going to stick with that since it is more of a known.
We've always had motorhomes with on board generators and large battery banks, but the Norcold 12 volt propane fridge. Since most all RVs are equipped with 12 volt systems in the first place and many with propane for heating, the "standard" RV fridge makes sense to us.
We also like to boondock and not run the generator more than necessary.
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:42 AM   #14
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Thanks for all the replies. So does anyone have real world experience with a residential fridge? No offense to anyway, but I would really like to hear from someone that actually has the refrigerator and experience with it. Thanks,
I have the residential fridge in my Jayco North Point. So far we have been happy with it, although there has been some adjustment. Our trailer has 4 12v batteries for extended life. They work fairly well and I can get anywhere from 24 hrs. to 36 hrs. depending on what else is running, when I'm not on an ac source. To extend my time, I installed 3 solar panels for a total of 480 watts. As long as I am frugal with other sources, the panels charge the batteries sufficiently. I guess I understand the advantages of the RV fridge with the propane option. We have made the residential work for us and wouldn't go back. One other caveat is winterizing. It is a little more complicated with the water filter. My decision is to not run anti-freeze through the fridge, but rather blow out the line with air and shut the valves off prior to pumping anti-freeze through the rest of the system.

Hope this helps.

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Old 11-03-2016, 10:50 AM   #15
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Norcold 18.6 two-way fridge

We ordered our 2016 Pinnacle with the two way Norcold since we do a lot of beach camping...we had to negotiate back and forth with Jayco, since they never offered the Norcold as an option...we are very happy with our choice. I can't imagine needing anything larger!
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:41 PM   #16
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I have the residential fridge too and second what mtdawg said.
If you get 4 12v batteries you should be good to go for your 18hr drive.
I struggle with dry camping with 2 6volts and 520watts of solar.
But for the most part I am plugged in and nothing beats the crushed ice right at the door and the filtered cold water.
I also wasn't keen on the two large outside vents on the wall for wasps and daubbers to make a home.

I vote the residential fridge and more batteries.
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Old 11-04-2016, 05:27 AM   #17
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Thanks for the info klassic and mtdawg. I believe the 355 is setup from the factory to accept 2 batteries, where do you put the other 2? Thanks.
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Old 11-04-2016, 07:46 AM   #18
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Thanks for the info klassic and mtdawg. I believe the 355 is setup from the factory to accept 2 batteries, where do you put the other 2? Thanks.
On the northpoint and pinnacle the battery compartment can hold 6 batteries.
Although they would need a watering system or they would have to be AGM's because there would be no way to check the water level without removing them.

You could switch to all AGM's and not worry about venting and put them just about anywhere.
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Old 11-04-2016, 08:40 AM   #19
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I am not sure as to which type of inverter JAYCO uses for their Residential Refrigerators (Pure sine wave or modified sine wave). If they install the MODIFIED sine wave inverter, you may want to change it out for a PURE sine wave inverter.

Why you may ask... Electric motors do NOT run as efficiently when power is supplied by MODIFIED sine wave inverters. The motors run slower, they run hotter... more power needed. It gets into harmonics, frequencies, motor capacitors, which in its own way increases loads...

The Pure sine wave produces power that is as close as you can get to the utility companies service.

So, will the inefficiencies of the MODIFIED sine wave inverter have an effect on the life of the fridge's compressor/motor? Time will tell... personally if I had a residential fridge (not even a current consideration as they are NOT battery/SOLAR friendly), but I would change out the MODIFIED inverter for a 1000/1500 watt PURE sine wave inverter (which I already have it the TT). As the motor would run more efficiently, cooler and less of an electrical load.

With a standard RV battery, you will not even get a full day of power (disconnecting at the suggested battery voltage of 12.0VDC)

Don
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Old 11-04-2016, 02:04 PM   #20
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We have a 17 377RLBH with the residential fridge. This past July we traveled 3200 miles with it full running the inverter the entire trip with no issues. We would stop at night in an rv park and plug into shore power but spent at least 12 hours on the road at a time only stopping for fuel.
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