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Old 05-08-2017, 04:24 PM   #1
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The Dreaded Out Of Stroke 3.0 leveling

Ok been at the same place for six months. Every two months bring slide in an relevel since I am on dirt, they call it grass. No matter what I did nose high, nose low, blocks under so jacks barely move this is what happens. It will go thru all the way to dropping center jacks to stabilize than it moves center jacks a tad more than flashes out of stroke which I know is bs.

Tried ten times every way possible. Using my level unit is level. Leaving June 1 so when I get to new site I am unplugging power supply (someone posted about that with a black screen) and than I will see what happens. I did notice that thru all this the left jack kept flashing on the screen with a dot by left jack. Went to Manuel mode retracted all jack fully and tried auto level got same results. Raised front way up than auto level same result. Blocks no blocks under jacks same exact results. Levels exactly the same each time than over stroke. Add this to my factory repair list

Someone just got a new FBTS and said he got the new level system, what is that another upgrade.

Klassic
Seems we have the same woes, slide, outriggers, walls and jacks
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Old 05-08-2017, 04:48 PM   #2
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The only way I can get mine to level without picking the tires off the ground is after it lands all Jacks and get to the first analyzing...I hit a button and it emergency stops. I am always level at that point.

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Old 05-08-2017, 05:46 PM   #3
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I heard on anther thread an owner found a sensor aft of the wheels as I recall this part is responsible for the reading of the angle of the trailer and it wasn't mounted. It was just hanging around in the bottom of the corplast. Once mounted all issue went away

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Old 05-08-2017, 06:05 PM   #4
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The rear sensor is critical. It must be secured firmly to the frame. If loose or hanging or such, it needs addressed!


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Old 05-08-2017, 06:07 PM   #5
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Mine has been working great for the last 18 months until today. I have been in the same spot for six months so I cannot see a sensor falling off

Still like to know about the new system that was posted
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Old 05-08-2017, 06:13 PM   #6
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Unless you troubleshoot, it won't fix itself!

Is no new system. They changed the Linc remote to the Myrv Onecontrol system. Still same 3.0 system. You can use the outside touch pad, the Myrv touch screen inside or use an app on your phone or tablet. I have it on my 2017 Eagle 293RKDS. They have a basic touch pad outside now. All detailed info can be pulled up on the inside touch screen or on the app.


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Old 05-08-2017, 06:18 PM   #7
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Mopar Earl

Hey I am also a mopar man. I ran my 1970 GTX pro stock. 32 coats of black lacquer you could shave in the reflection

Got the Mopar Penagon on my arm. Nothing like a 426 Hemi !!!!!!!
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Old 05-08-2017, 06:25 PM   #8
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Kinda wondering about this. I never used my remote for leveling but for slides and awnings. I tried the remote today and got nothing. Tried several times where it said retract and nothing. So went to the control panel and that is when over stroke happened . Since I am going to factory I will let them fix it and get the remote to work. I will unplug power from main board just to see what happens. All I know is over stoke is BS since I blocked to an inch of jack
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Old 05-08-2017, 06:41 PM   #9
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It may have lost its calibration, rear sensor issue, need homed, etc. It's electric and electronic. That stuff can have issues just sitting dormant.

I'm born and raised Mopar. The others never blew my hair back. I have a 52 Dodge Coronet Club Coupe. My buddy has a building full of Mopars. He's currently building a 65 Belvedere A990 clone. He has a GTX or two. One is a convertible.


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Old 05-08-2017, 06:45 PM   #10
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Pics of the new controls for the ground control 3.0. installed on late 2017 units.


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IMG_20170427_185145753.jpg   IMG_20170427_183939171.jpg  
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:11 AM   #11
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That looks like a simpler display, they made it easier.
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:43 AM   #12
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Reading the troubleshooting guide it list two reasons for out of stroke code. One , jack stroke is not the problem. Second is high amp draw. Everytime it would level from to back and side than when the center jacks drop and stop than ground is when error code displays. After work I will check center jack connectors for corrosion. Center jacks do not level just stabilize so why that would be a high amp draw makes no scense.
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Old 05-09-2017, 09:47 AM   #13
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Pore Ground connection cones to mind. Crappy wire, corrosion inside the wire, to small of wire, splice somewhere. RV manufactures aren't known for spending money.

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Old 05-09-2017, 10:08 AM   #14
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Wow lots different from 2016!
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Old 05-09-2017, 04:28 PM   #15
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Rock
Mine was acting just like you described in you OP, Long story - short, rear sensor went bad.
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:29 PM   #16
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Tks I will add that to my troubleshooting . But why say over stoke? I am not worried about trying to fix. I will just add this to the factory repair list. But it is just like what freakin next. I have a real level and Manuel will work just fine . What sucks is I cannot sit back with a cold one while it self levels, I gotta do it
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Old 05-09-2017, 07:36 PM   #17
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Rock... call Lippert. Get the ball rolling. If it's a messed up sensor or board the Jayco can pop that together for you because Lippert already diagnosed the problem with you.
In the end Lippert is responsible for it
When I called, the techs are quite accommodating and know the system inside out.

And you're missing one thing about our common ailments...my furnace heater trips the reset switch ontop of the unit after about 2.5hrs of running normally like it should.
I have to take stuff out of the basement...take down the wall...contort myself into a mouse and flick the switch back.

Earliest my dealer can get me in is July 21. I said how are you going to diagnose this problem when it's going to be 80-95 degrees all summer????
The furnace isn't going to heat to 100 degrees.

My warranty is up in August. Guess I live with this furnace.
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Old 05-10-2017, 11:44 AM   #18
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Klassic
I will get with LCI when I get to My next site June 1. Maybe 400 towing miles will fix it. I do not want to mess the slides any more than I have to. Since I sprayed dry lube on all the schwintec gear rails, bottom rollers and bottom slide material the kitchen slide did not moan as much.

What kind of help did the tech give you? Is there a way to pull up a code besides what the display shows or electrical troubleshooting help?

On your heater issue, I do not know if I can even get thru the rat nest to get to mine. Pretty lame to have a reset at the back, can you relocate the switch?
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Old 05-10-2017, 02:19 PM   #19
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I had the dreaded out of stroke issue one time, just like you, it would come up just as the middle stabilizers touched the ground, mine was actually the front legs that were out of stroke, but it took a long time for me to realize it because it was always when the middle ones moved that the error occurred. When you get the error you can scroll through and see how far the front and rear legs are extended, if I recall the fronts are like 13 inches and the rears maybe 9 (I really can't remember the exact off the top of my head). Site was so off level I had to drop the front down on Jack stands to add enough blocks under the front legs to get it to auto level.
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Old 05-10-2017, 05:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock View Post
Klassic
I will get with LCI when I get to My next site June 1. Maybe 400 towing miles will fix it. I do not want to mess the slides any more than I have to. Since I sprayed dry lube on all the schwintec gear rails, bottom rollers and bottom slide material the kitchen slide did not moan as much.

What kind of help did the tech give you? Is there a way to pull up a code besides what the display shows or electrical troubleshooting help?

On your heater issue, I do not know if I can even get thru the rat nest to get to mine. Pretty lame to have a reset at the back, can you relocate the switch?
Rock
They emailed me and said to call back so they could do some tests to see if it was the main board. Well I called back and of course it was all working again.

Maybe I could relocate the switch but the would require pulling the unit out. And I don't know how they even got it in there!!!
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