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Old 01-30-2016, 08:22 AM   #1
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Trailer has nose up position

My rig is a 2012 F150 Screw with 2011 27.5 bhs Eagle ;and after all adjustments on trailer hitch and truck hitch, I'm still have a small nose
up stance. I have been told that the two axels are made to adjust for this
and if I don't go crazy (overload or go off road) I should be fine. Open to solutions or do I leave it alone and watch rear trailer axel (tires -bearings)
more often?
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Old 01-30-2016, 09:17 AM   #2
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Define small nose up. Mine sits up a bit and never had a problem. I'm 3 inches high on the front frame to the rear.
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Old 01-30-2016, 01:00 PM   #3
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Hi! Mine is a little more than 4 less than 5 in. . would 16. in tires improve trailer height? ( truck has 18 in.) Your problem free trailering calms some of my fears.
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Old 01-30-2016, 05:01 PM   #4
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16's might bring it up a bit. i would drive it some and keep an eye on it. If you see additional wear on the rears then just rotate the tires.
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Old 01-30-2016, 09:10 PM   #5
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Sounds like a plan. I have seen a few with higher pitches and they are truck'n down the road.
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Old 01-31-2016, 02:17 PM   #6
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Mine was 6 inches high. This thread shows what I ended up doing.
http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f6...ght-18663.html
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Old 01-31-2016, 03:25 PM   #7
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Yikes!! Never thought to have to rebuild the frame $$$$$
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Old 01-31-2016, 03:58 PM   #8
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Yikes!! Never thought to have to rebuild the frame $$$$$
Not sure what it would cost to have someone do a subframe. I've heard 1500ish...
We did the subframe ourselves, so it was just materials cost.
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Old 01-31-2016, 05:15 PM   #9
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Check to see if your suspension is adjustable. If it isn't perhaps longer shackles. How much clearance between the TV bed rails and the 5th, 6" seems to the agreed on spacing. If you have more maybe raising the pin box and/or lowering the hitch would help.
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Old 01-31-2016, 05:35 PM   #10
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Done & done sorry to say....
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:20 AM   #11
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Thanks for all your input. After researching spring adjustments, I have found that there are on the market leaf spring blocks to raise heights of trailers. They are available in 1"to 4" heights which slip in between the springs and axel ; (need new longer u-bolts) and have proven road service. As a side effect I now can upgrade to to 16" lt tires from my 15" st import tire hell! Think of going with a 2" raise so not to change handling too much.(already have spring over setup)
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Old 02-04-2016, 12:26 PM   #12
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Let us know how the blocks work out. I'm a bit leary about changing the center of gravity of the trailer without any sub frame support.

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Thanks for all your input. After researching spring adjustments, I have found that there are on the market leaf spring blocks to raise heights of trailers. They are available in 1"to 4" heights which slip in between the springs and axel ; (need new longer u-bolts) and have proven road service. As a side effect I now can upgrade to to 16" lt tires from my 15" st import tire hell! Think of going with a 2" raise so not to change handling too much.(already have spring over setup)
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Old 02-04-2016, 01:37 PM   #13
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I will mark my agenda to remind me as this won't happen till late May when the trailer is removed from winter storage. So far I have found some complete kits online made just for 1.75" springs on trailers and since my axel is already under/spring( Jayco Setup) my fix will be simple. It could be no more daring than those who do the axel flip which raises a trailer by some 3" or more, a very common modification.
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:59 PM   #14
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Im not a great big fan of lift blocks, especially trailer springs only being 1.75" wide, but they will probably work. If "I" were going to use a block, only being 1.75", I wouldn't go over 2" tall on the block...but thats just me. I did find some nice solid billet lift blocks made for 1.75" trailer springs.

I've got mine close to level behind my drw 3500. I wanted to try something else before going with a subframe lift. I went to Northern Tool and bought another 2 sets of trailer springs. I took the springs out of my camper, took them apart, took the new springs apart, got out the Stihl TS420 saw and made my own custom lift spring just like they do for the front lift kits on trucks. I made bands for the extra leafs to hold the pack in line. I put a new bolt through the spring and got new 8" U-bolts. Id have to look at my notes but I got close to 3" and the trailer still rides good, tested on speed bumps at walmart.

My truck was still high in the rear hooked up, so I took 2 of the 3 factory spacer leafs out of the rear and its about perfect now. The 2 spacers got me about 1" lower at the tailgate.

Im undecided at the point, but I may take to trailer leaf back apart and add 1 more small leaf to the pack to get it perfect....or I may just live with it. Im gonna load truck and trailer down with our stuff and decide then.
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:41 PM   #15
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Some of us have talents of the mechanical type which some only dream of.... After some serious thought and reading every post on like work done on trailers ... I will proceed on the spring block lift. I will ensure that all work be done by pros and that extra care be taken not to cut quality. I agree that 2" is all that I feel safe to raise a trailer.
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Old 02-06-2016, 01:51 PM   #16
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I second your thought as well. Although I can try to tackle this myself, I have neither the correct tools nor the space to do this type of work. I would be interested to know how the lift blocks work out, but I need more than 2-inch lift. I want to make sure the trailer is safe when towing and when cross wind hits it. Again, let us know when you do have the blocks installed.

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Some of us have talents of the mechanical type which some only dream of.... After some serious thought and reading every post on like work done on trailers ... I will proceed on the spring block lift. I will ensure that all work be done by pros and that extra care be taken not to cut quality. I agree that 2" is all that I feel safe to raise a trailer.
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Old 02-06-2016, 06:49 PM   #17
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My thoughts on keeping the blocks under 2" is, any block taller than 2" is going to be a lot taller than it is wide....but people use 2" widex4to5" tall blocks all the time in the rear of vehicles.

Thats just my thoughts....doesn't mean they're right.


One other thing, not sure all is like this, but on my 2014 model, the leaf springs isnt mounted exactly level. The equalizer/shackle ends is lower (between tires) than the solid mounted ends. So, the more lift block you use, the axles will spread apart from each other some. I dont really see it being a big deal, but much over a 2" block lift and the wheel-tire wont be centered in the wheel well and may look odd.

I believe if more than 2" max lift block is needed, a subframe is the best way to go....but again thats just my opinion.
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