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Old 02-12-2012, 07:11 PM   #11
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Idaho/Arizona
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I used to drain and use antifreeze. That way the sink traps are protected. Some models have water lines running all over the coach and it can be difficult to blow them out. I much prefer Seanns method. I leave in Sept and return in late April or May.

2011 Eagle 330RLTS with just about every option.
Dodge SRW 1 ton Cummins powered.

I was born with nothing and I still have most of it left.
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:57 PM   #12
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Near St Louis
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Ive done both and if done correctly will provide complete protection. Antifreeze is more expensive but is the method I've used the past 2 seasons. If you use air, just make sure all of your lines are blown out thoroughly.

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Old 02-15-2012, 03:39 AM   #13
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Location: Charleston, SC
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I have noticed a set of shut off- in line valves, Hot and Cold, in the front storage area and a set of low point drain valves between there and the W/D connections.

Next time I drain the system, I plan to close the water supply valves and drain the water from the rest of the washer lines via the low point drains and just leave them off. It should eliminate a potential problem and speed up my winterization, as long as the W/D is not being used.

Thinking about tagging it so I won't forget!

2011 351RLTS Eagle, Mor/Ryde suspension & pin box
06 F350 Lariat PSD, SRW, LB, CC, EGR delete kit, 16K DrawTite hitch, Timbrens, TST TPMS

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