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Old 09-08-2015, 10:09 AM   #11
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Location: South Texas
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I own the same trailer, and I just upgraded to a RAM 2500. Granted, my GMC Sierra 1500 was not as capable as your F150 with EcoBoost, but they're still 1/2 T trucks. So I agree that it's just a little too much trailer for the truck.

I was within all the numbers on paper, but reality caught up with me. Especially when my son was born and DW said she wanted to start taking longer trips. My GMC was okay in the flats with just the two of us, and it could handle SOME hilly terrain, but it was never very confidence inspiring.

Now with the RAM 2500, I've got all the power and capacity I'll ever need, and the combo is just perfect for us, with plenty of room to grow. Only thing I'll complain about is my FastWay E2 WDH; it's not quite up to the job IMHO, but it's also no longer an emergency to replace it because the bigger truck handles the load A LOT better.


2014 Jay Flight 28 BHBE
2015 RAM 2500 6.4L HEMI, Tradesman 4x4, 3.73
Blue Ox SwayPro (BXW 1503)

Upgraded from an REI internal frame backpack and a Eureka 1/2 dome tent!
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:12 AM   #12
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Location: Jamul
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I tow a 2015 White Hawk 27DSRL (7000 lbs.) with my 1991 Ford Bronco, 351W engine (105" WB). We drove 4000 miles this summer including the Eisenhower Tunnel, 11,138 ft. My two suggestions, 1. Look into the Pro Pride hitch it's expensive I know but I swear by it. Even in a strong crosswind I never had trailer sway. 2. Change your rear differential ratio. My factory gearing was 3.55 and I changed to 4.56 I easily do the speed limit and tow up mountains between 45 and 55mph. I know that everyone on this forum will tell you to go out and buy a $70K superduty to tow your trailer but I'm proof that you can tow comfortable and safely with your truck. Good Luck

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Old 09-08-2015, 01:57 PM   #13
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We just traded 'up' to a 2016 Whitehawk 28RBKS, 6582# UVW, 760# hitch (per spec), and tow with a 2010 F150, 5.4L, 3.55 locking, with tow pkg, RoundBar WD hitch, LT tires and the Firestone bags. I culled many other TT choices because of the high UVW and hitch weight that many RV manufacturers and dealers designate as 'half-ton towable'. This new Whitehawk actually tows better/straighter/more stable than the 5000# Keystone we sold. I agree with both mmwhit's comments, as well as the more popular recommendation of getting a 3/4T truck. For us, we mostly camp around home, 2 or 3 day weekends, within a couple hours drive, on pretty good roads (I65 and I70 in Indiana being roads to avoid, by the way...). For that purpose, our set-up is just fine and I'm comfortable towing (been towing farm trailers since I was a little feller) at slightly below posted speeds with plenty of cushion between me and the *&^%-$#@ in front of me.

We just made a trip from Indiana to eastern Pennsylvania and the F150 performed like a champ, towing strong up the mountains in northwest MD and in WV, and using the factory engine-brake feature, when needed, coming down. Never felt out of control or unstable. HOWEVER, if I were going to make that sort of a trip more than once a year, I'd be doing it in a Super Duty.

I drive the truck for work every day, and having the F150 for an every day driver makes more fiscal sense. If I bought a Super Duty for just one out-of-state camping trip per year, I'd sort of feel like I built a church just for Easter Sunday ;-)

As I write this post, however, I have another tab open on my browser searching for used Super Duty trucks on Autotrader.com... I'm so conflicted...
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Old 09-08-2015, 02:37 PM   #14
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I have to tow mine a little nose down to get the best tow out of it. That raises the tongue weight, and would put a hurting on the payload capacity of a half ton. I totally agree with Camper_bob. With the Titan I would get blown all over the place. In the RAM, I just set the cruise control and drive.
2014 Ram 2500 Mega Cab Laramie 4x4 6.4L HEMI 4.10s with antispin
2014 Jayco Jay Flight Swift 287BHBE
Equal-i-zer 90-00-1200(new 90-02-4900 shank)
2x Honda 2K
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:58 AM   #15
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Before trading in a great truck and losing THOUSANDS, I will second rgchak's recommendation of getting a ProPride 3P or Hensley hitch. I get absolutely NO sway of any kind and easily out-tow my buddy who has an 04 Cummins 2500 stick, 28BHS and a Reese friction bar WDH...in the wind only. He definitely pulls the hills better, at speed (cruise on) and gets much better mileage.

I went from a 2003 Ram 2500 QC 4x4 Hemi to the Tundra and the Tundra handles the 26BH just as well and even better since getting the ProPride hitch. The Tundra has way more pulling power, better gears and a much better transmission. I can easily cruise down the interstate at 70+ if I wanted to. I normally run around 65 though except when I need to pass a semi. I then throttle down and get by them. Absolutely NO sway involved.

2017 28BHBE Kitchen skylight, remote control and Aluminum wheels hitched by ProPride 3P
2012 Jayco Jay Flight 26BH traded in
2013 Toyota Tundra DC 4x4, 5.7, 6 speed 4.30 gears
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Old 09-09-2015, 06:49 AM   #16
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Also, check the trailer tires, are they bias ply? I have a Tundra 1/2 ton and 27bh and it tows like a dream even when semi's are passing me, but I'm running radial TT tires. I have hit cross wind but not like I have driven in SD or WY with it, so I can't say equivocally but has worked for me. Its stock truck except I added a rear sway bar for general handling, although it probably helps the towing as well. I just added a WDH after a year and didn't even use that the year before and it towed great. It came with an anti-sway add-on, but I don't even use it.
New to me 27BH towed by 4.6 Tundra
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Old 09-09-2015, 08:09 AM   #17
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Location: western
Posts: 78
I tow a little heavier and longer with a 14' Ecoboost Super Crew, Max Tow, 3.73 gears and E rated tires. I have no issues with my 1400 Equalizer 4 point Sway WDH. I recently upgraded from the dealer installed Fastway E2. I did not like the way it towed and got lots of sway even with the "2 point sway". Equalizer was night and day, I also added some washers as the dealer set it up to light. As other have mentioned, double check your WDH / Sway control set-up. When you are pulling a 30'+ bread box behind you there are going to be times you are going to feel the push from a cross wind, slow down and take it easy. However that is not the same thing as trailer sway which can be corrected.
2015 Eagle 324bhts
tv. 2012 F-150 s/c lariat ecoboost 3.73 max tow
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Old 09-09-2015, 12:22 PM   #18
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"Before trading in a great truck and losing THOUSANDS, I will second rgchak's recommendation of getting a ProPride 3P or Hensley hitch."

I will third this opinion, having towed an Eagle 294BHBE for the last two years with a 2010 F150 and I would not want to do it without a Propride or Hensley hitch. I have felt the sway, you are referring to, on rare occasions when I was pulling my 4,000 lb trailer with the same TV. With the Propride and a trailer that is nearly twice as long and nearly twice the weight, at or below the speed limit, it is very steady with no sway. A brand new one-ton diesel truck with a properly set up WDH with anti-sway will also fix the sway and climb hills faster. I believe Hensley and Propride both have money-back warranties but I leave it to you to look at the terms and conditions.
2015 Eagle 284BHBE

2010 Ford F150 XLT 5.4 Maxtow, Coverking Seat Covers, Putco LED interiors, Kenwood DNX571TR GPS, Kicker Powerstage, Weathertech Floor Mats and Window Vents, Line-X, Firestone Airbags, Michelin LTX-MS2, LivewireTS 5 Star tuned, Propride 3P
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Old 09-09-2015, 02:49 PM   #19
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You did not say what your wheelbase is either. Given roughly the same vehicle, a longer wheelbase has more stability than a shorter wheelbase (at least in my experience). There is also no need to buy a brand new truck. I tow just fine with my 2000 1 ton Powerstroke. I don't have some of the new doo-dads, but it's paid for and I am building it as I go. Speaking personally I would probably move up in truck, especially since you have done all of the common mods already.

The Reese dual cam can also cause sway if it is not set up right, as the bars will keep trying to settle into the saddles. Try this. Stop in a rest area with the trailer loaded where you can park straight and level(ish). Take a look at your bars and the weight distribution and make sure that the ends of the short bars are in the saddles. Mine weren't (after the dealer set it up) and it caused wicked bad handling. Here's how I fixed it, but it is not "by the numbers". I loosened both bolts so that the round parts could slide, put the jack down to take just a little weight off, then used a hammer to knock the short bars into the depressions on the long bars from the hitch. Then tighten up the giant nuts and you would be good to go. I had a world of difference after doing this, and your problem sounds a lot like what I was having happen. Good Luck!

2000 Ford 4x4 Crewcab Dually 7.3 PSD
2015 Seismic 3712
2013 Jay Flight 32BHDS (sold)
2009 Jay Flight 31BHS (sold)
2005 Jay Flight 27BH (sold) - probably my favorite
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