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Old 08-10-2016, 11:37 AM   #1
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29BHS - Removeable window unit installation in Emergency Window

Anyone attempted this? I plan to build a frame to mount to the AC using plywood, add a foam gasket/cushion to butt against the window, and build a support stand outside to hold the majority of the weight. I'm trying to figure out if it would be best to build the frame to butt up against the inside of the window where it installed/removed from the inside, or to butt up against the outside and install/remove from outside. We have the materials for both, but wondered if anyone had attempted this.
If you're wondering why I'm doing this, it's b/c my converter went bad and I can only run AC power. Rewired everything for 15A and can't run factory AC without serious rewiring. Addition of a $150 window unit seems to be a fairly easy fix.
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Old 08-10-2016, 12:10 PM   #2
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Couldn't you simply rewire the AC to run on a dedicated 20amp service? That would be less than $150. Unless you are planning to leave your trailer parked at a permanent site, I don't see this being a successful endeavor. Having a heavy window AC unit cantilevered out the side of an already minimally structured wall system and then bouncing it down the highway is a recipe for an expensive disaster.
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Old 08-10-2016, 12:52 PM   #3
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29BHS - Removeable window unit installation in Emergency Window

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reclaw View Post
Anyone attempted this? I plan to build a frame to mount to the AC using plywood, add a foam gasket/cushion to butt against the window, and build a support stand outside to hold the majority of the weight. I'm trying to figure out if it would be best to build the frame to butt up against the inside of the window where it installed/removed from the inside, or to butt up against the outside and install/remove from outside. We have the materials for both, but wondered if anyone had attempted this.

If you're wondering why I'm doing this, it's b/c my converter went bad and I can only run AC power. Rewired everything for 15A and can't run factory AC without serious rewiring. Addition of a $150 window unit seems to be a fairly easy fix.


Get a new converter. They are less than $150 also.

Plus, the roof AC unit doesn't need 12 volts to run.


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New England
2007 Chevy 2500HD crew
2015 Jayco Jayflight 32BHDS
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:03 PM   #4
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The thermostat runs off DC power so there's no way to control the unit, unless someone knows differently. I'm pretty good with electrical stuff, but no EE by any means. I'm up for options for sure. I could keep the window unit at home in case of emergencies.

The trailer is essentially stationary, but I plan to make the fixture where I can simply unplug the AC's power, take it out and close the window when not in use to avoid worrying about leaking. I plan to build a table/shelf to put on blocks outside the window to hold 99% of the weight. There really won't be any weight on the window/camper. It would just butt up against either the inside or outside using thick foam insulation tape.
Totally agree, it would be a HORRIBLE idea to try to "permanently" install the window unit. Yes, it would definitely fall off pulling out of the driveway!
If the weather is OK, I'm doing this tomorrow and will post pics...if it works!
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:54 PM   #5
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A quick & Dirty option would be to buy a smart charger/battery-tender and install a battery. Then you'll have all your 12VDC systems without the converter.


If the converter is gone, install a few inline fuses and butt splicers.
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