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11-30-2014, 09:12 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Shepherdsville
Posts: 79
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2nd trip, lots of questions
We just returned from the Smokies after the second trip in our TT. I have a couple questions. First what is the trick to keeping condensation down when camping in cool/cold weather? To be fair there where 2 adults, a 5 y/o and a 85 lb black lab in a 154 BH the air inside was plenty warm and humid. Would a small dehumidifier do the trick?
Also I had a drip from my low point drains. I took the plugs out of the valves and cleaned them, applied a little Vaseline and so far there has been no more leaks. Would a little dirt, which there was some on the gaskets, really cause a consistent drip? Enough that it would make my pump short cycle every 30-45 sec.
Next, how do you all keep tabs on your propane levels? I only have one 20lb tank and I get paranoid that it will run dry at 3 am. I had a gauge on there but it never moved over 3 days. Probably just time for a new one, but thought I would get your .02 before I make a purchase.
Finally, does anyone have an atwood/hydroflame thermostat they want to get rid of? I have the analog type but the thermometer is busted and atwood only sells whole units.
Thanks
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11-30-2014, 09:37 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,780
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Lots of questions.
Dehumidification, we keep a roof vent cracked open and a window, which has served us well.
Low point drain valves, depending on the frequency of the drip, it could cause the pump to cycle quite frequently. Mine hot water valve is leaking and it cycles the pump ever minute or so.
Propane level, none of the gauges really work well. Usually they will go from full to empty quickly, as they are looking at internal pressure. A scale works best. If you are actively using the tank you can feel the cooled line and that will tell you how much fuel is left. Pouring water over the tank will show a frost line, to do the same. Remember you need to be pulling fuel from the tank family fast to make ether method work.
Thermostat, I just installed a battery operated digital one to replace the oem one.
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11-30-2014, 09:53 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: St. Clair Shores
Posts: 62
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We crack the all the windows about an inch or so. Seems to have taken care of 95% of the condensation problem. I would buy an electric heater instead of using your tanks. Let the CG pay for your heat instead of you.
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11-30-2014, 11:17 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 609
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My experience recently on LP gas usage:
Two nights at 20 deg f with a brisk breeze, kept the trailer at 68 deg the whole weekend with cracked windows to mitigate moisture. I only used 1/2 of a 30 pound bottle.
So, I'll never worry again about running out if gas, since that weekends temps were the coldest I'll ever camp.
__________________
Craig T. Bailey
Hudson, NH
2015 Jayflight 32BHDS
2018 Chevy 3500HD Crew 4x4 Duramax
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12-01-2014, 09:42 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Shepherdsville
Posts: 79
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thanks for the replies. we tried opening the roof vents, and it helped. (plus it wasn't as cold that night) I think all of us in such a small place might have been too much without fully opening a vent or window. I might look into a small dehumidifier if we do more cold weather stuff.
Does anyone have any experience with the Moscap gas check, or Truma Levelcheck?
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12-01-2014, 09:45 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: South Texas
Posts: 7,217
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For the propane, you might consider installing a dual tank rack if you're worried about it. We've had our trailer a little over a year and we still have fuel in the primary 30# tank, secondary tank is completely full. But then we've only run the furnace once and that was as a supplement for our space heater. So obviously I can't speak to excess condensation, but we always leave our bathroom vent (our only roof vent) open (covered of course).
Our Low Points have leaked on and off, I just keep treating them with Vaseline and it will work for a while. Sometimes I just have to give them a gentle turn one way or the other and they'll stop. We rarely use our water pump, so I don't know if our leaks have ever caused the pump to cycle. Eventually I will probably get frustrated and replace them with ball valves (?)
__________________
-2018 Greyhawk 29MV
-2020 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (JLU) (Primary Toad)
-1994 Jeep Wrangler YJ (Secondary Toad)
-2014 Jay Flight 28BHBE & Ram 2500 6.4L CC 4x4 (sold)
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12-01-2014, 10:18 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: King George
Posts: 2,761
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We run a second extension cord into the trailer from the pedestal 20AMP Circuit. This runs our electric heater and has its own circuit breaker on the pedestal. Does not affect our 30AMP Main breaker...
If it is really cold I will set my propane furnace to a low setting so it will will come on if it gets really cold in the trailer. It is our BACK UP heat source so to speak.
Roy Ken
__________________
Roy and Carolyn
I claim Horse Creek Country in Southern Ill - Momabear is from North Texas
We live in King George VA
RETIRED DOD DOAF DON CONTRACTOR Electronics Tech 42YRS
"We're burning daylight" - John Wayne
2008 STARCRAFT 14RT OFF-ROAD POPUP with PD9260C and three 85AH 12VDC batteries
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"We always have a PLAN B"
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12-01-2014, 10:28 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Shepherdsville
Posts: 79
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I didn't think much of the leaking low points until I winterized the camper and noticed the anti-freeze dripping from below and the pump cycling. I was concerned that the water lines would empty then be left in the cold with no anti freeze. I suppose at that point the water had been pushed of the lines so there may be nothing to freeze, but my OCD wants it right.
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12-01-2014, 10:37 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: South Texas
Posts: 7,217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMC
I didn't think much of the leaking low points until I winterized the camper and noticed the anti-freeze dripping from below and the pump cycling. I was concerned that the water lines would empty then be left in the cold with no anti freeze. I suppose at that point the water had been pushed of the lines so there may be nothing to freeze, but my OCD wants it right.
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My OCD works like yours. But I have to wonder if the only time my LP drains leak is when the system is under pressure (I haven't tested mine for it, and my plan for winterization or storage in general is to blow out the lines). If you release the line pressure before you complete your winterization, would your LPs still leak? Knowing the answer to this question would help me sleep a little better at night if I had AF in my water lines...
__________________
-2018 Greyhawk 29MV
-2020 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (JLU) (Primary Toad)
-1994 Jeep Wrangler YJ (Secondary Toad)
-2014 Jay Flight 28BHBE & Ram 2500 6.4L CC 4x4 (sold)
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12-01-2014, 10:43 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,780
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You do not need to have antifreeze physically in the line. After I winterize the unit I actually blow out the lines of antifreeze, leaving just a little residue. Good antifreeze will not freeze solid and will not expand. The key is to get the ALL of the WATER out of the lines, as water expands when it freezes and it will crack plumbing.
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12-01-2014, 11:00 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Shepherdsville
Posts: 79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper_bob
My OCD works like yours. But I have to wonder if the only time my LP drains leak is when the system is under pressure (I haven't tested mine for it, and my plan for winterization or storage in general is to blow out the lines). If you release the line pressure before you complete your winterization, would your LPs still leak? Knowing the answer to this question would help me sleep a little better at night if I had AF in my water lines...
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That would work for winterizing but the system is always under pressure while camping and would still drip. It seems to be fixed now, we'll see. Thanks
As far as "good" antifreeze, I thought that was the whole point. The stuff I'm using is rated to -50, it rarely gets below zero around here so I hope it "good" enough!!
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12-01-2014, 11:41 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Bremerton
Posts: 342
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my $.02:
you now know the source of your pump cycling on/off. Do your best to seal the leaking plug. If you are still worried about the cycling pump, then only turn your pump on during the night if someone has to use the bathroom.
as for propane use, start a weekend trip with a full tank. make a mental note of what LP appliances are used during the weekend (WH, stove, furnace, frig). refill the tank again after you get home. that will give you an idea how much LP gas is used and an idea how long your tank will last.
I have a 1gal portable tank that I use for my 3burner coleman stove. It will ALMOST last (2) three day weekends of eggs, bacon, frenchtoast, coffee, dinner and hot cocoa for my family of seven. therefore I fill it before we leave everytime.
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12-01-2014, 04:57 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 6,818
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Get a tank with a built in float gauge at Sams for about $20. They are non-restricting and accurate.
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12-01-2014, 10:02 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Shepherdsville
Posts: 79
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Wow. That looks like the perfect solution for that issue. Thanks!
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