50Amp vs 30Amp service on a 26BH

[SouthCo]

You don't need a second unit in the 26BH. We have the 15k and don't even run it near full cold and are fine..,

[Spur]

Damn it, I didn't add the Thermal package either! I know better than to buy stuff with a hangover.
I'll have to add it in a few hours once they open up.

[SmokerBill]

Originally Posted by Spur

Damn it, I didn't add the Thermal package either! I know better than to buy stuff with a hangover.
I'll have to add it in a few hours once they open up.

Just curious, but is there an option for getting dual-pane windows with the 26BH TT's now? That's one thing I really wish I had.

As far as the air conditioning goes, I have a 15k BTU unit, and it had no problem keeping the inside of the trailer at a comfortable 78 degrees while I was camping in full sun at Death Valley. Outdoor temp was around 110 degrees. The air conditioner didn't really struggle, either, as it cycled off regularly when it hit the set temperature on the thermostat.

Since I don't have dual-pane windows, I devised a cheat. I bought a sheet of 3/4 in insul-foam styrofoam insulation and cut pieces to fit snugly into the inside of the window frames. I place the foil side towards the glass, and it serves well to insulate both from direct sunlight and cold weather at night. To conserve heat overnight, I put them in place in the evening, when the temp starts to drop. Works really well.

[Spur]

No dual-pane window option yet.
I'm glad to hear that the AC was adequate.
Do you have any pictures of your insulation job? Sounds like a great idea.

[Spur]

So I've decided against the thermal package. I'll be going to the beach a lot and I want to be able to access the underbelly to rinse off salt and check for rust. I also don't like the idea of a cover holding moisture in a humid environment. Maybe it's the wrong call , but I'm tired of thinking about it!

[norty1]

We survived without it for many, many years. IMO, if you don't have and never will have a 2nd ac, then you can get by with minimum precautions.

Just remember to turn the wh to gas before turning on the coffee maker or microwave and survey your outlets to prevent plugging up high wattage appliances on the same breaker.

[SmokerBill]

Originally Posted by Spur

No dual-pane window option yet.
I'm glad to hear that the AC was adequate.
Do you have any pictures of your insulation job? Sounds like a great idea.

I will try to get some pics for you, Spur.

[cekkk]

You should do fine with 30 amps. We spent several winters in our 30 amp Eagle and did fine. You just need to keep in mind what's drawing power and maybe shut something off before turning something else on. We did run a heavy extension from the post's 110v outlet and used it for a toaster oven and a couple other things.

We do weekends in the desert and our 15k ac does the job, but just barely. Nights cool a bit so bedroom is okay, sometimes we need a fan though.

That being said our next one will have 50 amp service and a pair of ac units.

[Iraqvet05]

We have only popped the pedestal breaker a few times and I attributed one instance to a CG with a touch 30A breaker. I dug out the 50-30A adapter and used the 50A feed in that instance. We tripped the pedestal breaker another time on a hot day running the 15k AC, water heater on electric and the coffee pot on. We solved the issue that day by running the water heater on gas.

[namusmc65]

I live in Georgia and have 50 amps and 2 ACS. Hardly ever run the two AC's at the same time. But don't have to worry about kicking breakers. However, when it gets really hot, it is awful nice to be able to turn on two AC's and cool the unit down in no time.

[troutslayer]

Originally Posted by SailandPaddle

The 30 amp cord is pretty thick, stiff and sometimes hard to put back. I imagine that a 50 amp cord would be more so.

You got that right!

[Ela1948]

I made up a 30 amp cord that I use in place of the 50 amp most of the time. The 50 amp is miserable any time its cold and is no fun when its hot. The only time I use 50 amp is when I run both AC's. I hate that damn 50 amp cable!!!

[Hohenwald48]

I like 50A service. I don't have to manage load with it. Make coffee, run the a/c, toaster, hot plate, electric heater and not worry about the breaker. If I have to I can operate on 30A but more and more CGs have 50 now. However, that big cord can be a bugger to handle. Especially when the temps are low.


Of course everything 50A is more expensive than 30A. A lot of folks don't realize that with 50A service you actually have 100A available to use but with 30A you only have 30A available.

[rjackson]

Originally Posted by borninblue

Up in Ohio almost all State Parks are 50 amp now. No brainer for me.

news to me, we camp mostly ohio state parks, and a few have 50 amp, most do not

[lhpelton]

We used to pop the breaker all the time. Now we only use the gas for hot water, and never trip it.
Also, most every CG in Texas has a 50 amp area. The state parks for sure.

[borninblue]

Originally Posted by rjackson

news to me, we camp mostly ohio state parks, and a few have 50 amp, most do not

I should have stated most around the Cleveland area do. We are at West Branch most of the time.

[SmokerBill]

Originally Posted by Spur

No dual-pane window option yet.
I'm glad to hear that the AC was adequate.
Do you have any pictures of your insulation job? Sounds like a great idea.

Haven't got pics, Spur, but I'll explain how I made the insulating window inserts. One 4 x 8 foot sheet of 3/4 inch foil backed styrofoam insulation board was enough for every window in my 26BH.


First, measure each window for width and height. Carefully cut out the rectangles of insul-board with a sharp utility knife blade, using a carpenter square to keep things, well, square.

Find something that has the same radius as the window corners, like a pot or pan lid, or some other container. I think I found a large yogurt lid that matched. Use the edge of the radius guide to mark the curve of the corners. Again, cut carefully.

After cutting, I went around the entire perimeter of the inserts with duct tape. This prevents the styrofoam from breaking away, and makes the edge stronger. (do a test fit before adding the tape).

The insert should fit snugly into the window frame (foil side out is what I do). Over time, it will fit a little looser. To remove, I just use the point of a knife to gently pry one corner out.

For the egress windows, it's necessary to cut a notch out where the latching mechanism is attached. On my egress windows, I inserted the insul-board and taped it in place. I pretty much leave the insul-board in the egress windows full time.

Hope that gives you some idea on how to insulate your single pane windows. They do work great for keeping heat in or out, whichever you need at the moment. To hold in the heat and prevent condensation, I put mine in in the evening, and remove in the morning after it warms up a little. If a window is in direct sun, it really blocks out the heat well, too.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Spur

Ok, good. What state do you camp in? I live in Texas and figured we'd be comfortable enough with just one AC unit.

I'm in your neck of the woods with a '14 28BHBE running one 15K A/C unit. It works HARD in the heat of summer (you know what August is like), but it works. You have fewer cubic feet to worry about than I do, so I would say it'll be okay.

That being said, I got the 2nd AC prep (50A service) with no second unit. Once or twice I've wished I had the 2nd unit on my trailer...

[Crabman]

Slides and large windows make the heat/ac work hard. Since the OP has neither on the 26BH I think he will be fine with the 15K.

[Spur]

SmokerBill, I appreciate you taking the time to walk me through the insulation job. Sounds pretty straight forward and definitely something I plan on doing.

Yeah, I agree that I'll be ok with the 15k. Again, it's a big upgrade from a tent!