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Old 10-24-2014, 11:07 PM   #41
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I live in Washington State (eastern), and have had my Jayco dealer winterize my Greyhawk 3100SS. All they do is blow out the lines, drain and by pass the water heater, leave the low point drains open and pour about a gallon of RV antifreeze in the sinks, shower and toilet. No antifreeze in the water lines. So far no problems. I do keep my RV indoors, but unheated, so probably does not get as cold as it would parked outside.
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Old 10-25-2014, 11:17 AM   #42
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We are almost neighbors. I use the red stuff but think it is just a matter of personal preference. Whatever works.
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Old 11-10-2014, 03:13 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyBound View Post
I do both. It's cheap insurance. I can winterize for under $20 using 3 gallons of antifreeze after I blow out the lines with compressed air @ 40psi. I like having antifreeze in the system because it keeps rubber seals from drying out - grey and black tank valves, toilet bowl seal, even the faucet seals themselves. Make sure you remember to winterize the city water connection, outdoor shower, and black tank flush line as well.

I am a new owner (white hawk 28dsbh) and tried to hand pump antifreeze into the black flush tank today - but most/all of it spat back out at me. Does the black tank valve need to be open for me to get fluid into the black flush line? Other? Thanks!
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:05 PM   #44
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My experience with this is using a hand pump at the black tank flush too. It worked as i expected. The antifreeze pumped in and i could hear the fluid in the black tank as i pumped it. I don't believe the valve needs to be opened for this to work as you need it to.
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