Appropriate Trailer for My Tow Vehicle

[frjeff]

Currently own a 2013 JayFlight 22FB. Towed it this winter with my old 2001 Chev. 1500 with the 4.8L and limited range tranny.

Just bought a 2016 Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost. 3.55 locker, Max tow pkg and, of course it has the 6 speed tranny and far higher tow and load capacity.

The 22FB served us well and we do not really have "2 foot itis", but thinking of a new TT with more comfortable living space. BR and Bath in our rig is fine, but for sitting comfort on a rain day or evening TV viewing, not so good.

I don't want to take a salesman's work for what is possible, nor do we desire a fiver (have short box tug). The experts here are my best info source.

So, looking for the best balance of long term living comfort, value and well within my tow vehicle safety limitations.

Thoughts?

[RedHorse1]

IMHO you would do well by starting with a visit to the scales to get your weights. Comparing that to the GAWR will help you understand how much real cargo you can add. Trim and drive train options will affect the payload. You will spend some $1000's on the TT. A $10 spend for the weights can help you avoid a mis-match. My sub-educated guess is about 6k# will be about the TV's limit.
The CAT Scale is your friend.

[NVGun40]

Many of us here have many many years towing various loads and various RVs. However, I would call any of us experts... lol.
If you search through the forums you will find lots of info and pretty much the similar advice throughout. Many will tell you to hit the scales. An excellent idea.
Not trusting the salesman with "what will work just fine" is a great idea.
As you look into many of the new TT's you will find their are a lot of very long/large rigs which fall into the 'towable' weight range of your new F150.
F150's like yours are excellent TV's and deserve a lot of respect.
So a couple of things to keep in mind (after hitting the scales). When you consider a new TT and its posted weight ratios, also consider full water tanks, propane tanks, batteries, and all your camping gear, and any extra gear you may load into the truck including passengers.
Once all that is considered, you should have a good idea of the weight range for a new TT. However, do yourself a favor and consider the overall length of the TT in relation to your TV and the wheel base distance.
Just because it falls into the weight range for your TV and even if there is room to spare, running too long of a TT can give you problems as well and cause many white knuckle experiences.

Just my two cents.

[CaptRon53]

Our trailer is 31 ft long and we have no sway or power problems towing. That said the payload and rear axle weights are close to maxed. I wouldnt go with anything bigger with a 1/2 ton truck.

[need-a-vacation]

FRJeff,

Congrats on the new tv!!!

If you don't have a scale nearby, even looking in the drivers door jamb for theyellow payload sticker will give you a good starting point. Though it doesn't give seperate axle weights.

While shopping, keep in mind the "brochure" dry tw does not include the wight of the propane tanks and a battery on the tongue. That can add ~120 for 2-20lb tanks and a battery, or ~160lbs for 2-30lb tanks and a battery. Powerwise you shouldn't have any issues.

What wdh do you currently have? Does it have an integrated sway control? If not, if you decide to get a. New wdh look into the Reese Dual Cam, Reese SC, or the Equal-I-Zer 4 way system. All 3 are very good for the price.

Good luck!!!

[BCK]

I have a similar truck in a 2014. It pulls my 26bhs nicely. For a general idea just take the GCVWR for your vehicle from the owners manual. Assume your truck will be maxed out on payload. So subtract the GVWR for the truck from the GCVWR and that will get you very close to the max GVWR of trailer you can tow.

My truck has a cargo capacity listed inside the driver door of 1760lbs. The weight of fuel, occupants, cargo and tt tw has to come in under that. Round numbers will get you pretty close and then you can use exact weights as mentioned above once you have a unit in mind.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by RedHorse1

IMHO you would do well by starting with a visit to the scales to get your weights......snip

X2

frjeff..........,

Shopping for a new TT and knowing your TV's "available" payload capacity is valuable information to have in hand.

If your looking at a particular model TT on the RV dealer's lot, look for the 'yellow weight sticker' on the side of TT, it will have the actual shipped-from-factory UVW....., then add the estimated weights of your cargo, battery, etc. (include fresh water if you normally tow with it).

Don't forget your 50lb WDH also get's subtracted from your TV's "available" payload capacity along with your loaded tongue weight........, and to be on the safe side figure 15% of your TT's "estimated" loaded weight will be your loaded tongue weight.

Bob

[frjeff]

Originally Posted by need-a-vacation

FRJeff,

Congrats on the new tv!!!

If you don't have a scale nearby, even looking in the drivers door jamb for theyellow payload sticker will give you a good starting point. Though it doesn't give seperate axle weights.

While shopping, keep in mind the "brochure" dry tw does not include the wight of the propane tanks and a battery on the tongue. That can add ~120 for 2-20lb tanks and a battery, or ~160lbs for 2-30lb tanks and a battery. Powerwise you shouldn't have any issues.

What wdh do you currently have? Does it have an integrated sway control? If not, if you decide to get a. New wdh look into the Reese Dual Cam, Reese SC, or the Equal-I-Zer 4 way system. All 3 are very good,

Good luck!!!

I have the Equal-I-Zer 4-way system.

[need-a-vacation]

Originally Posted by frjeff

I have the Equal-I-Zer 4-way system.

Should be all set with that hitch system as long as the wd bars are still good to go for the loaded tw of the new tt.

I would guess the shank should still work, though there is the chance you may need to change the hitch head height...