Atwood-nylon drain plug

brugreg · 05-20-2011, 08:19 AM

I just sanitized water system. Noticed after removing nylon drain plug twice, the edges for the socket are starting to wear fast. Any advice as to removing it, and installing a Camco brass 1/2" threaded plug (#11703), with a drain valve on it? Looks like they go for around $6. I read on forums of the heads coming off etc. Also read about replacing the 1/2" plug with a CPVC fitting. . .is this better than the nylon plug?

**FPM III** · 05-20-2011, 09:48 AM

I'm still using the same nylon plug as when I bought our trailer 11 years ago. Could you be overtightening it? My procedure is to screw the plug in until it's just snug, not tight, fill and pressurize the water system, then check the plug for any leakage. If leaking (which I prefer to happen), I only tighten it just to the point where the leak stops.

I seem to notice that some folks just put the plug in and then really tighten it down before testing for leakage. This can lead to overtightening, damage to the plug's threads and even the possibility of shearing off the head.

Personally I wouldn't be comfortable substituting a brass plug (or anything else with brass threads) for the nylon; especially since the tank and its threaded drain opening is aluminum. And keep in mind that if you happen to overtighten that brass plug, you could damage the aluminum threads of the tank- then you'd have a real problem on your hands. I don't think damage to the tank threads is as likely to occur with the nylon plug.

I know if, and when, my original nylon plug buys the farm, its successor plug will be another nylon plug.

**Crabman** · 05-20-2011, 11:03 AM

I agree with FPM, brass and aluminum are dissimilar metals that do not like each other and I will stick with the nylon plugs, If you use the correct size socket and an extension they will not round off (I cannot remember the size, 15/16ths rings a bell but not sure).

Seann45 · 05-20-2011, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brugreg

I just sanitized water system. Noticed after removing nylon drain plug twice, the edges for the socket are starting to wear fast. Any advice as to removing it, and installing a Camco brass 1/2" threaded plug (#11703), with a drain valve on it? Looks like they go for around $6. I read on forums of the heads coming off etc. Also read about replacing the 1/2" plug with a CPVC fitting. . .is this better than the nylon plug?

Ask yourself would you rather strip a nylon plug or a brass one.. the nylon one will be easier to fix the brass one may do damage to the tank.....there is a reason they put a nylon one in...

TexasA&M · 05-20-2011, 01:24 PM

I just drain the tank with the low point drains... hopefully I'll never remove that plug again.

**Crabman** · 05-20-2011, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasA&M

I just drain the tank with the low point drains... hopefully I'll never remove that plug again.

Does that get all the water out of the HW tank?

TexasA&M · 05-20-2011, 01:33 PM

The first time I did it, I pulled the plug after the low points stopped draining. No additional water came out of the hot water heater. Just open the low point drains and then pull the pressure relief valve on the hot water heater. Takes longer to drain, but simpler.

**Crabman** · 05-20-2011, 01:47 PM

I`ll have to give that a try.

Rustic Eagle · 05-20-2011, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crabman

I agree with FPM, brass and aluminum are dissimilar metals that do not like each other.....snip

I agree as well, may find it hard to get the brass fitting out as time passes. I carry a couple of spare nylon plugs and replace as needed. I also use plumbers tape around the threads (single wrap) so that I don't have to thread the nylon plug in as far (seals better).

The "inside" of the nylon plug is recessed to trap sediment, so removing the plug once in awhile is recommended to clean it or replace it.

Bob

prooney · 05-20-2011, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasA&M

I just drain the tank with the low point drains... hopefully I'll never remove that plug again.

I do the same, I never remove the nylon plug. Low point drains get all the water out, just takes a bit longer.

llerberg · 05-21-2011, 08:31 AM

I use the correct size socket and an extension and seem to have no problem. I like your idea FPM and will give that a try the next time.

Burtonair01 · 09-26-2012, 08:32 PM

HELP!!!!!

Any ideas how to get a sheared off plug out?
I just bought a new to me 2007 Jayco Eagle 299RLS and took the nylon plug out to just check and rinse the hot water tank, when I put it back in it was leaking so I went to tighten it and the **** thing sheared off and I have no idea how to get the part that is still threaded in out. Any ideas?

Terry · 09-26-2012, 08:39 PM

Just thinking, but how about taking some kind of screwdriver type end and heating it up really hot....jam it into the plug where it melts into it and then turn away....

Burtonair01 · 09-26-2012, 09:04 PM

Definately worth a try!

edowsfamily · 09-27-2012, 02:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tafische

Just thinking, but how about taking some kind of screwdriver type end and heating it up really hot....jam it into the plug where it melts into it and then turn away....

if that won't work how about a dremal and grind out the plug, not removing threads in w/h. then when thin enough pull out what is left with either needle nose pliers or pointed awl. or automotive ez-out. just a thought

mcfarmall · 09-27-2012, 03:23 AM

[QUOTE=The "inside" of the nylon plug is recessed to trap sediment, so removing the plug once in awhile is recommended to clean it or replace it.

Bob[/QUOTE]

Methinks the hollowed out nylon plug is to save on plastic...it's a cut-throat industry where contracts are won or lost over tenths of a cent per piece price differences.

Burtonair01 · 09-27-2012, 05:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edowsfamily

if that won't work how about a dremal and grind out the plug, not removing threads in w/h. then when thin enough pull out what is left with either needle nose pliers or pointed awl. or automotive ez-out. just a thought

Another good idea. Thanks guys!
Gotta love forum rooms.

**norty1** · 09-27-2012, 06:01 AM

I have had several do that. I drilled the nylon plug taking care not to damage the metal threads. I took a round file and removed as much of the plug material, then pried it up with a knife until I could grab it with a long nose pier. Give it a twist and it will roll out on the pliers.

Make sure you flush the tank thoroughly before replacing the plug.

I one blow out on a cold night a few years ago. That was a experience.

Burtonair01 · 09-27-2012, 06:06 AM

Just waiting for day light and I'll give these all a try, I think they will work!

Westerncanuck · 09-27-2012, 06:53 AM

I would use an ez out, just drill a hole in the centre of the plug and then use the ez out in a corner clockwise rotation to remove the plug. I use it for removing broken studs. An EZ out is like a drill bit but it is tapered with a reverse thread designed to be inserted in the pilot hole. It will grab the material and spin it out like you we're removing a stud...That tool is not expensive an will save you a lot of grief.

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