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Old 06-05-2016, 03:34 PM   #1
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Battery disconnected, no lights when connected to TV

I just got back from where I keep my 267BHSW with the battery disconnected. I wanted to extend the slide so I connected up the 7-pin cable to my TV but the 12V lights would not turn on nor would the slide extend. When I connected up the trailer's battery, everything worked as expected. My question is, why is a battery needed in order for the trailer's 12V system to work when connected to my TV? I guess it's possible my TV isn't outputting 12V out the 7-pin connector. Unfortunately I don't have my multi-meter with me to check this. Any idea as to what else might be the cause? I'd like to be ready next time I can get to the trailer.
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Old 06-05-2016, 03:39 PM   #2
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The 12 volt is connected to and to go thru the cables so without battery connected there is no 12 volt to the camper , The connection at hitch runs through the cables to lighting the tail lights and the charging part of the plug goes through the cable to battery to charge as you drive
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Old 06-05-2016, 04:13 PM   #3
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I suspect your tow vehicle is not supplying 12V on pin 4 of the trailer connector. Unless you actually have a wiring problem on the trailer you should have full 12V functionality on the trailer when connected to your tow vehicle even when the trailer battery is disconnected.
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Old 06-05-2016, 04:42 PM   #4
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I have found with my 2014 F-150 with factory wiring, the TV must be running for that 12v to be present at the coach.

Having just gone into the junction box attached to the front of the coach where all the trailer wire/coach electrical come together, I would not be at all surprised if you found a wire disconnected. Mine was a rats nest of different gage wires, twisted together (most with three leads per nut) using standard home connection wire nuts that were improperly sized for the job, no outdoor type, and definitely nothing with rubber boots or any anti-vibration measures. The metal electrical box with only two of the corner screws securing the cover hardly count as indoor IMO. A sealed outdoor plastic electrical box, see thru push connectors and liquid black tape gave me some peace of mind.


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Old 06-05-2016, 04:50 PM   #5
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On my TV (Nissan Armada) you have to have the ignition key on for 12VDC to make it to the TT.
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Old 06-05-2016, 04:54 PM   #6
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I have a 2015 F-150 and I just read on a F-150 forum that not only does the truck have to be running (which it was) but I also needed to depress the break before the truck would recognize that the trailer was connected. Only then would 12v be present. Won't be able to try this out for several days.

Thanks for your help on this thus far.
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Old 06-05-2016, 05:01 PM   #7
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My GMC Yukon has the 12V hot all the time. I guess General Motors and Ford do things differently.
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Old 06-05-2016, 05:09 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by tnchuck100 View Post
I guess General Motors and Ford do things differently.

I won't proceed any further with that comment, but man that sure is funny!



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Old 06-05-2016, 07:31 PM   #9
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The 12 volt is connected to and to go thru the cables so without battery connected there is no 12 volt to the camper , The connection at hitch runs through the cables to lighting the tail lights and the charging part of the plug goes through the cable to battery to charge as you drive
I think Paint is right, if I connect my 7-way from the truck the trailer and no battery I too can't work any of the internal 12v systems. With a battery, even a dead battery, it works fine. My Duramax has a constant 12v at the 7-way; ignition on or off, brake pressed or not there is always a hot pin.

My elect hitch won't run on the 7-way however with a dead battery. I have it wired directly to the battery so it must have sufficient charge to drive that motor.
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Old 06-05-2016, 07:42 PM   #10
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Battery disconnected, no lights when connected to TV

I hauled mine to the dealer for another "visitation". This time I took the negative off the battery so they would not keep it for 4 weeks and let my batteries die a slow painful death like last time. With the battery unhooked, I was able to run my jack with only the TV power. My Hitch is connected to some other wires at the junction box, the 12v TV power is connected with some other wires at the junction box. I purchased my coach new, and these connections are as they where upon delivery. Don't know if that was a dealer prep item or a Jayco production standard.


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Old 06-05-2016, 09:35 PM   #11
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Kellseik,

I don't know if we read the same thread or not - but the one I read on an F150 forum was much more detailed.

On a 2015 or 2016 (and I assume later) Ford F150's here's the deal:
1) The Ignition must be "on" and the engine running (not just accessory).
2) The trailer must be "named" in trailer setup and selected
3) You must depress the brake at least once which is apparently when the onboard computer "senses" the brake lights and decides it is attached to a trailer.

Then and only then will you get charge current to pin 4.
Also, if you're looking at charts of the 7way connector - remember that it's installed upside down on a Ford. Pin 4 is bottom left, not top right.

There was also one poster that swore there was no voltage on the charge line unless the RPM's of the engine passed some point (he thought 1500 rpm). Nobody verified that.

Lastly - the "charge line" is a very tiny wire (like 8ga) and only supports .5a. In other words it won't really "charge" a dead or low battery and it certainly won't run something like a jack. It's designed (by an idiot who never owned an RV) to simply provide a trickle charge to "maintain" the RV batteries.

This is about the only thing about my new F150 I don't like.
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Old 06-06-2016, 06:58 AM   #12
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Lastly - the "charge line" is a very tiny wire (like 8ga) and only supports .5a. In other words it won't really "charge" a dead or low battery and it certainly won't run something like a jack. It's designed (by an idiot who never owned an RV) to simply provide a trickle charge to "maintain" the RV batteries.

This is about the only thing about my new F150 I don't like.
2x to the design issue regarding the charging wire used in the F150... so I just went out to the truck and checked what gauge wire is used between the breaker and the trailer connector. I remember looking at it a few years ago, and thought it was rather thin.. based on what I see this morning, it is more like a 12 or 14AWG wire... that will REALLY limit the charging capabilities of the F150/trailer.. I also noticed that the F150 seemed to ignore the TT batteries voltage level.

Guess, I will replace it with a 6AWG from the battery to the trailer connector and a 30amp breaker.

The one thing I did notice was that the F150 did not recognize the low voltage on the TT battery and step up the charging voltage (after truck engine was not on the initial higher voltage charge after starting). I tested it after running down the TT batteries to 12.1 volts, I started the F150 and the voltage was at 14.8 volts. When the F150 battery came down to 13 volts, I connected the trailer (with SOLAR disconnected) and the voltage at the F150 battery did not change (at all, and yes initially there was 14.8 on the trailer connector), making me believe that there may be a blocking diode in the trailer charging circuit to isolate the F150 from the trailer. With a diode in place, the F150 does not see the battery, but still supplies its current/voltage, based on the needs of the F150 battery. Yes, the trailer is programmed into the truck as EAGLE, and it does come up on the display, which confuses my blocking diode theory, although there may be other sensors working here. You would think that the 12.1 trailer voltage would bring down the F150 battery to an point between the 2 batteries, and the truck would raise the charging voltage. I will continue trying to figure this out, but it is not at the top of my priority list...

Don
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