Best way to stabilize seasonally?

[turkii]

Just returned from our maiden voyage with our Jayco 32BHDS. I have a few questions that hopefully I can get some help with, but I'll separate the questions out in different threads so hopefully the information is easier to find for others in the future.

What are your best tips for stabilizing a travel trailer on a seasonal site or in a permanent location. We started by using cinder blocks under the stabilizers and have regular wheel chocks which helped with the rocking, but are there any tips or tricks to completely stabilize and eliminate rocking (or as much as possible?)

Our camper is on a seasonal site and at this point we have no plans to relocate, even after this season ends. My insurance makes me leave the wheel on, but I'm open to any other suggestions!

[2005 31bhds]

I just added a set of stabilizers to the center of ours and we use the x chocks I just add an 8" block under each so that I don't have to crank them all the way down. Our camper is on a seasonal site in NC.

[turkii]

Do you mean an extra set of stabilizers on each side between the wheels and the hitch? Or two extra stabilizers on the rear axle? Thanks!

[wwsmith111]

I use jack stands everywhere every time. I put one 6 ton set just in front of the tandems directly to the frame and level it side to side. I use a bottle jack to jack it up. Then I use the electric tongue jack to level front to back and then I raise it up a little more then set the front down on another set of 12 ton jack stands. Then I run down the stabilizer jacks. Sometimes one needs to block up the jacks in the front a little depending on how level the ground is. This eliminates almost all movement, is a cheap solution, and doesn't take any longer to do than any other leveling method. I have all the equipment to do this organized and ready to go when I set up camp and I put it back in its place when I break camp. The first time I did it it took longer to do while I figured it out... p.s. I use 12 ton extra long jack stands in the front because of the extension. Mine go up to 27" I think.

[NewBlackDak]

Something to keep the wheels from moving help the rock tremendously. I'm lazy and posting CW links, but you might find cheaper elsewhere
http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/i...op-chock/29163
http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/i...k-2-pack/49876
http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/i...win-pack/31695

The less extended your stabilizers are, the more effective they are. I would imagine cinder blocks work well under the feet, as long as the ground is stable.

I installed another set of stabilizers just aft of the axles.

Some people love the stabilizing arms. I haven't tried them yet, but am thinking about it.
http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/i...iler-kit/69725
http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/i...zing-bar/37028

My wife is super sensitive to the movement when I don't even notice, so I have to setup rock solid or she complains.

I met a camper yesterday that rigged a way to apply the brakes when parked. Has anyone else ever seen it?

[turkii]

Thanks all! I ordered a set of X chocks and also found the flip down support to go under the trailer stairs. Hopefully these will help out a lot.

[2005 31bhds]

Originally Posted by turkii

Do you mean an extra set of stabilizers on each side between the wheels and the hitch? Or two extra stabilizers on the rear axle? Thanks!

Yes I put one extra stab. On each side just in front of the axles and we have almost zero movement inside.

[RaveOn]

I built 12 stabilizing posts, 6 on each side of frame. I used 10 inch cinder blocks on Patio stones and then shimmed accordingly. From perfect level I built up to frame and shimmed approx a quarter of an inch after lifting a bit with a jack. It is rock solid and hasn't moved in a year and a half.

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by NewBlackDak

I met a camper yesterday that rigged a way to apply the brakes when parked. Has anyone else ever seen it?

The only way I know of using the brakes on a TT is by putting a jumper in the TT's cable to the TV. You would have to put a jumper in the brake pin and the 12VDC pin of the cable. I did not think this was a good idea because of the heat generated... So I thought I would contact Dexter to see what their thoughts were... Not recommended.. See below response....

--------------------------------------------------------
Donald ,
Although the Dexter Axle electric brakes can tolerate being on for extended periods of time without damage we strongly recommend against it. We have tested Dexter Axle magnets being powered for over 24 hours with no damage but they do get quite hot with the potential to damage wire insulation. Leaving 4 brakes on continuous would draw about 12 amperes from the battery and unless it is a very large battery with a battery charger it would deplete a battery in several hours. The electric magnets have weakened magnetic force when hot so the brakes would not be at full strength even if the trailer were to try to roll. Using the electric brakes as a park brake seems unwise when using wheel chocks would accomplish the same thing without any energy consumption and waste.
In the USA RV trailers are not required to have parking brakes, but in those vehicles where parking brakes are required (commercial trucks) the law requires the park brake not be powered by any energy source that can "Leak down". For example, park brakes cannot be powered by air pressure, vacuum, hydraulic pressure or electricity.
Duane Belisle
Dexter Axle

[Mustang65]

Sorry the title should be BRAKES not BREAKS