Blowing out gas lines

chrismoore701 · 07-08-2017, 09:52 PM

So I know this has been asked a dozen times on here. What is the best way to get my gas appliances to start working? I have a fridge. Furnace. Stove. And water heater.

I replaced the regulator/dual tank splitter before last trip. All worked. Stove worked this trip

Now only the fridge works on the gas. Nothing else

The lines all split at the same point under the trailer

Do I disconnect the faulty units at the splitter under the trailer and put some air in the lines? If so. What pressure?

Thanks

Jagiven · 07-08-2017, 10:49 PM

The new regulators have a safety device in them. They will stop the flow of gas if it suspects free flow of gas (gas line break). If this happens, the easiest way I have found to reset the regulator, is to turn off the gas at the tank. Remove the regulator from the tank, light a stove burner, and leave the valve open, after the stove runs out of gas ( I leave the stove vent running). Let it every thing sit for a couple minutes. Turn off the stove burner. Connect the regulator to the tank. Then very slowly open the gas valve at the tank. Some regulators are very sensitive to the inrush of propane from the tank.

How long have you tried light the stove? If I recall the pressure regulator output is 0.5 psi. So it may take a bit of time to bleed out the air. I always light the stove first. In the spring it may take a minute or so for enough gas to light the stove. I turn on the stove exhaust to ensure I am safe, and often I use a fire stick (long handled lighter), and just wait until the burner lights, and then let it burn for 30 seconds or so. Once the stove is light, then everything else lights up fairly quickly.

Now that you remove a couple gas lines from the manifold, did you use the right thread sealant when you put it back together? I like to use yellow Teflon tape (gas approved). Also did you do a leak test where you separated the fittings? You can use liquid dish soap, and water. I like kids bubbles. If it bubbles, you have a leak.

Edit: I thought I read that you had disconnected the hoses at the manifold. You stated you were thinking of doing.

need-a-vacation · 07-09-2017, 05:07 AM

Chris,

I hate to ask this, but you do have some propane left in the tanks, right??? Or is one empty and the regulator didn't get manually switched over or automatically switch over???

Maybe try the tank(s) in the grill if its gas? Also, try a different tank on the tt?

Did you use any type of thread sealant when you replaced the regulator? If so, maybe some made its way to the stove and water heater, blocking the flow to them.

Another thought is you have a bad regulator. The stove and water heater need more gas than the fridge. Maybe it's allowing just enough gas flow so only the fridge works.

If you disconnect the gas lines, I would probably start by making sure you have enough output first at the regulator. It could be a bad one from the manufacture. If you end up trying to blow the lines out, disconnect the lines at the appliances so you don't possibly "push anything into them". Without looking, I don't believe the gas lines are rated for very high pressure downline of the regulator, so use caution of how much pressure you blow them out with. If you have rubber gas lines under the rig, here should be a psi rating stamped on it. Even if it's steel pipe, I would still try the lowest setting on the compressor.

And as mentioned, check all connections for gas leaks. This is something we all should do occasionally!!!

Be careful and good luck!!!

wabirch · 07-09-2017, 06:13 AM

Holding a match to the burner to see if it flickers a little maybe, just to rule out the tank / line needs a check. If you see the match flame bounce around it is just clearing air in the line.

chrismoore701 · 07-09-2017, 06:57 AM

I have gas in the lines. I used the yellow tape. The stove worked yesterday morning. I have steel lines under the trailer. I have attached the splitter under the trailer. How do I bypass the regulator? To try to blow out the lines? I let the stove go for a long time.

chrismoore701 · 07-09-2017, 07:00 AM

The only lines I disconnected were at the regulator. I have not cracked any other lines

Jagiven · 07-09-2017, 07:15 AM

The only way to blow out the lines is to disconnect the devices, and the regulator. Then, make an adaptor, for the air compressor. Our tt's do not have a dust drip, like our stick houses, and CA, can be very dirty air, as it is not filtered, so water, CA tank rist, etc, could be introduced into the line.

chrismoore701 · 07-09-2017, 07:53 AM

Just remembered. When I was checking the stove. Nothing. Tried with a match. Nothing. Walked away. Left stove on. Alarm started going off about 10-15 min later. So apparently I am getting gas.

What if I were to hook up a vacuum cleaner to the tank connection and suck back?

ifallsguy · 07-09-2017, 07:54 AM

Just so we understand, according to the message with the picture, did you add or in anyway disconnect/connect a splitter to the gas line. Is the splitter upstream of the stove, fridge and HW? If so, it sounds like the issue is the splitter. Is it possible some of the tape is physically blocking the line? It may have moved when you installed the splitter.

chrismoore701 · 07-09-2017, 09:15 AM

The only thing I messed with was the regulator. See pic. I did this before my last trip and everything worked. Now half way through this trip I am having issues. It is possible the tape is plugging things

chrismoore701 · 07-09-2017, 09:16 AM

As you can see the splitter is upstream of everything

Fingerlakes · 07-09-2017, 10:21 AM

DO NOT SUCK OUT THE LINES WITH A VACUUM CLEANER!! You could suck gas into the vacuum and have an explosion or fire.The regulator is set to put out 11" of water column pressure. That's a little less than 1/2 psi, sometimes it can take a bit to purge the lines out. As previously posted the flow limiters may have set in your tank valves and will need to be given the time to re-set. Also, make sure the hose/tank connection is screwed on all the way as it needs to press in on the insert in the valve to allow gas to flow.

chrismoore701 · 07-09-2017, 11:50 AM

I pulled the regulator off and checked the tape. It is clear. Everything is tight. Tanks are full. I have let the lines purge for some time and nothing. Put a match next to the burners and it will not flutter at all

chrismoore701 · 07-09-2017, 11:51 AM

Good call on the vacuum. My light headedness from sniffing the gas. Will not do that

ifallsguy · 07-09-2017, 03:45 PM

Recheck your connections at the tanks. If they are not perfectly connected, their valves will not allow gas to flow. It's easy to have a slight misalignment, preventing gas from flowing. Been there with my gas grill. Took me 2 attempts to get the valve and connector aligned.

Check out this article out explaining the issue.

Understanding Propane Bottle Valves - Troubleshooting LP Gas Cylinder Connections

chrismoore701 · 07-09-2017, 05:06 PM

Checked and good

Jagiven · 07-09-2017, 05:51 PM

Let's consider the KIS Method.

Why did you change your regulator?

When you used the yellow tape, did you ensure no tape was placed on the first thread? Did you remove any debris from old thread sealant?

Have flipped the switch to try the other tank? Have you placed the switch in the center position for auto tank switching?

You might just have a bad regulator. I just bought a new weber portable gas grill, it came with a defective regulator, I only got a low flame. Next regulator, it could not get it to light. ThI'd regulator they checked it before mailing it. It worked, bit it's not great.

chrismoore701 · 07-09-2017, 06:11 PM

Was just out there going over the whole system. I had a symple dual tank regulator and I wanted an automatic switching one. And the sad thing is. I gave the old one away. I have checked everything

Old yellow tape cleaned off
Yellow tape used
No debris in the system from the yellow tape
Only the fridge works but tonight it was struggling to lite and stay lit
No hot water
No furnace
No stove
Not even a hint of gas from the stove

I bet a nickle it is the regulator as that is the only thing I changed

I think I am going to go buy a simple two way or one way regulator for a back up. If it works on this I will buy a new automatic switching regulator.

**norty1** · 07-09-2017, 06:43 PM

I'm thinking you Id'd the problem .

chrismoore701 · 07-10-2017, 06:12 AM

I played around with it a little more last night. I just have a question. You can hear the fridge fire up and go out. It takes a couple times to get going, but will finally fire up and stay lit. Seems like low flow of LP. But why will the fridge fire up and no other units? I can’t even get the stove to flicker. Are there safety shutoffs to the other units with low LP pressure? Just does not make sense. Unless the fridge is really low flow, but by the sounds of it running, it should not be lower flow than a single stove burner. What am I missing here? I pulled the unit into my driveway, so I have some time to diagnose the issue

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