Camper power cable melting

[RAurand]

Originally Posted by sennister

I have the Progressive EMS and mounted the remote display in the outdoor kitchen area. We went camping a couple weeks ago and had become used to it cycling through the various readings and E0. I was sitting by the campfire and happened to look toward the camper as it cycled through and noticed it said PE4. PE4??? I wondered what that meant and why it didn't say E0 like everything was fine. I looked up the info on what this means and it was indicating that PE means there was a previous error. Error code 4 is Line 1 Voltage 104V or below. So at some point the voltage dropped and the EMS disconnected us. Once voltage returned to normal we automatically kicked back in. Low voltage can be just as harmful to electronics as high voltage.

Originally Posted by jsallman1

Well I have been on the fence about getting one of these, mainly cause I need a 50A one which makes them a little pricier. Think you just sold me.

I was at another campground and running my Microwave (AC was not on). All of a sudden my power went out. Looked at my Power Surge Guard and saw 96 volts. Couldn't figure it out as it was happening every time I turned on the microwave after the Surge Guard would reset, I would turn the microwave back on and power went back down to 96-92 volts. I went and talked with the campground maintenance guys and found out 3 campsites shared the same 30 Amp line. The camper beside us was trying to use a large electric griddle and when I would turn on the microwave, their lights would get noticeably dimmer but my electric (Surge protector) would disconnect on the low voltage.

YES, Low voltage can cause damage as well as high voltage.
I will never plug into a campground pedestal with out one.
For the cost of the surge protector, How much would it cost to have your entire electrical system replaced?

[rtiedeken]

Originally Posted by RAurand

I was at another campground and running my Microwave (AC was not on). All of a sudden my power went out. Looked at my Power Surge Guard and saw 96 volts. Couldn't figure it out as it was happening every time I turned on the microwave after the Surge Guard would reset, I would turn the microwave back on and power went back down to 96-92 volts. I went and talked with the campground maintenance guys and found out 3 campsites shared the same 30 Amp line. The camper beside us was trying to use a large electric griddle and when I would turn on the microwave, their lights would get noticeably dimmer but my electric (Surge protector) would disconnect on the low voltage.

YES, Low voltage can cause damage as well as high voltage.
I will never plug into a campground pedestal with out one.
For the cost of the surge protector, How much would it cost to have your entire electrical system replaced?

Thank you all, I replaced my plug on the camper with a camco plug. I also purchased a surge protector and learned ALOT about plugging in the camper as well as using the 50a adapter, and how unreliable camping pedastals are. All good information, and delivered in a timely fashion.

We leave tonight for more camping and needed a solution quick, and you all provided one. Thank you, this forum continues to be priceless.


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[norty1]

Originally Posted by rtiedeken

Thank you all, I replaced my plug on the camper with a camco plug. I also purchased a surge protector and learned ALOT about plugging in the camper as well as using the 50a adapter, and how unreliable camping pedastals are. All good information, and delivered in a timely fashion.

We leave tonight for more camping and needed a solution quick, and you all provided one. Thank you, this forum continues to be priceless.


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We love to help you spend your money!

[RAurand]

Originally Posted by norty1

We love to help you spend your money!

Money spent for very good reasons!

[reeses]

I've not read all 3 pages, apologies if this has already been posted.

It's advised not to run hot water and AC off of electric in the summer. Switch your hot water heater to gas when in use after repairing the plug.

Happy Camping.

[SouthCo]

Originally Posted by reeses

I've not read all 3 pages, apologies if this has already been posted.



It's advised not to run hot water and AC off of electric in the summer. Switch your hot water heater to gas when in use after repairing the plug.



Happy Camping.

Why? I always run the water heater on electric and run the a/c... I never turn either off while camping when it's warm.

From reading that wasn't the OP's issue...

[Wireman]

Originally Posted by SouthCo

Why? I always run the water heater on electric and run the a/c... I never turn either off while camping when it's warm.

From reading that wasn't the OP's issue...

Depending on current draw, there is a possibility of tripping your main breaker with both running at the same time.

I have a Progressive Industries EMS-30 surge protector with remote display.

I can monitor amperage draw and have seen it get close to the 30 amp max running both at the same time.

Any combo of A/C and electric WH, A/C and microwave, A/C and electric hair dryer will push it toward the limit.

[sennister]

Originally Posted by SouthCo

Why? I always run the water heater on electric and run the a/c... I never turn either off while camping when it's warm.

From reading that wasn't the OP's issue...

It probably wasn't the OP's issue since this seemed more like an issue between the camper cord and extension cord but what he is getting at is that it is just more of a load. I know I do it though. Last time we were at a full hookup site I know I had the electric water heater on, AC on, Kitchen fridge on electric, outside kitchen fridge on and the display on my EMS was showing I was pulling 28-29A at times. Granted the water heater isn't always heating, just if it kicks in when the temp drops below the thermostat setting. Also an AC really draws a lot of power when it kicks in and should drop down once running so it isn't like you should see a sustained nearly 30A of draw that would cause something to melt. However if the outlet on the pedestal is questionable (melted already) then it can cause issues. I have been considering making a short extension for cases like this. Have a cable that is a couple feet long so odds are it would melt this sacrificial short extension and not the one on the camper. Something like those dog bones that go from 30-50A or 50-30A. Just make one that is a 30-30A in my case.

[J-M Cox]

The power cord and connecter are designed to handle 30+amps. What causes the plug to overheat and melt is a bad connection at the pedestal. You cannot tell sometimes by just looking at the socket that it is bad. Also check the pins on your cord, make sure that they are clean.
Good idea to use a 50a dogbone or check for heating.I do this about 30 min after hooking up to be sure it is not warm and when I happen to be walking by the pedestal.

[Spur]

So I'm a rookie that is just completing his second summer of camping. Before my first trip last year, I bought a EMS PT30 because of the advice from the people on this forum. I also bought a dogbone to use 50amp if I needed to. So are you guys saying to use 50amp and a dogbone as a practice or just when the 30 amp looks suspect?

[ttavasc]

Originally Posted by Spur

So I'm a rookie that is just completing his second summer of camping. Before my first trip last year, I bought a EMS PT30 because of the advice from the people on this forum. I also bought a dogbone to use 50amp if I needed to. So are you guys saying to use 50amp and a dogbone as a practice or just when the 30 amp looks suspect?

I only use the dogbone if the 30amp looks bad or is obviously loose-fitting.

[sennister]

Originally Posted by Spur

So I'm a rookie that is just completing his second summer of camping. Before my first trip last year, I bought a EMS PT30 because of the advice from the people on this forum. I also bought a dogbone to use 50amp if I needed to. So are you guys saying to use 50amp and a dogbone as a practice or just when the 30 amp looks suspect?

The issue is more common at sites that don't have a 50A option. Not to point the finger at anyone but what melts an outlet is sustained draw near the max rating. So in the case of a pedestal with only 30A outlet if someone constantly draws 29A because maybe they have a 50A rig using a 50A-30A adapter. Well then they are not drawing enough of a load to trip the breaker but it really isn't designed to constantly provide 30A and it will get hot. While rated to 30A it is rated at that for a duty cycle of around 80%. Meaning it can take peaks up to 30A for brief moments. For instance an AC unit's compressor kicking in. Since more and more campers have electric fire places, dual AC units there are more and more are shipping with 50A power needs but the campgrounds are behind on upgrading things.

So why is it is a bigger problem with a 30A site than a 50A. Well if a site has both a 30A and 50A outlet on the pedestal a person with a 50A rig will use the 50A outlet. Why would they use an adapter down to 30A?

Also it isn't 100% the fault of the guys with 50A rigs. The more you plug things in and take them out of an outlet, the more they wear. In the case of the OP of this thread his issue was between his camper and the extension cord. No way of knowing for sure why but we can speculate that the extension cord didn't have a good tight connection on one of the conductors. That is the same thing that happens when an outlet wears out from constantly having things plugged in and taken out. Or maybe someone drove off without disconnecting and tweaked the outlet. Or had power hooked up and realized they had to back up a bit more to get the water or sewer hooked up and ran it over tweaking it. There are lots of reasons outlets get trashed.

If the 30A looked melted in any way I would use the 50A. Until they start making rigs that need 100A we should be fine doing that as the 50A outlets see less abuse.

[Spur]

Got it, thanks. I love my EMS more and more every time I use it.

[reeses]

Originally Posted by sennister

It probably wasn't the OP's issue since this seemed more like an issue between the camper cord and extension cord but what he is getting at is that it is just more of a load. I know I do it though. Last time we were at a full hookup site I know I had the electric water heater on, AC on, Kitchen fridge on electric, outside kitchen fridge on and the display on my EMS was showing I was pulling 28-29A at times. Granted the water heater isn't always heating, just if it kicks in when the temp drops below the thermostat setting. Also an AC really draws a lot of power when it kicks in and should drop down once running so it isn't like you should see a sustained nearly 30A of draw that would cause something to melt. However if the outlet on the pedestal is questionable (melted already) then it can cause issues. I have been considering making a short extension for cases like this. Have a cable that is a couple feet long so odds are it would melt this sacrificial short extension and not the one on the camper. Something like those dog bones that go from 30-50A or 50-30A. Just make one that is a 30-30A in my case.

@SouthCo these are some or the reasons why.

Plus you add these high current situations into a campsite power grid in Florida where everyone is running their AC on high, voltage drops, current rises = cables can burn.

Happened to us. After replacing my cable with a detachable shore cord I no longer run those two items together on a 30a circuit. You're near peak current draw as Sinnister stated.

[Spur]

So I guess having an EMS isn't a completely worry free venture then? If for some reason I was constantly running 28-29A then it would start to melt my EMS. I'll be keeping a closer eye an it now. Thanks again for the lesson guys.

[sennister]

Originally Posted by Spur

So I guess having an EMS isn't a completely worry free venture then? If for some reason I was constantly running 28-29A then it would start to melt my EMS. I'll be keeping a closer eye an it now. Thanks again for the lesson guys.

That is partially why I went with the internal one. A melted plug on an EMS isn't covered under the warranty.



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[Spur]

True. I don't know why the hell I went with the portable EMS in the first place. I'm not very handy, or handy at all honestly, so I didn't want to mess with having someone install it most likely. If my portable melts on me I'll probably go with the internal option next time. I'm just glad I have one!

[norty1]

There are many opinions on hardwired or portable. I like portable because a lightning strike destroyed another one I had. If it was hardwired, I would have had to take it out of the circuit.

Some carry a spare, Pricey! but a good idea,

[sennister]

Originally Posted by norty1

There are many opinions on hardwired or portable. I like portable because a lightning strike destroyed another one I had. If it was hardwired, I would have had to take it out of the circuit.

Some carry a spare, Pricey! but a good idea,

Not always. The Progressive Industries hardwired one is field repairable the outdoor one is not. It has to be sent in then you are waiting for them to repair it. That might take a couple weeks. The hardwired one can be opened up with 6 screws as there is no waterproofing needed and swap out the surge board which is mailed out as quick as thier shipping department gets to it and the board just gets plugged in. No need to be handy. Mine is under the bunks so not hard to get to.

The install, which isn't hard took 45 min with the mouse hole delete I did at the same time. The only real issue with it is that it is always there. So when on generator, which doesn't have a neutral bonded to ground, the EMS will throw a warning and not power the camper. Not a big deal if you get the more expensive one with the remote display that includes a bypass switch or add the optional bypass switch to the cheaper one. The other option is to make an adapter for the generator to bond the neutral to ground. My display is mounted in the outdoor kitchen so on generator I just flip it to bypass.

Then to remove it when I sell but I wired up a pair of twist locks before and after it. This way if I sell I just have to unplug it and hook the two wires together. It also made installation a lot easier on my workbench rather than laying in the camper. If I have a failure and needed power and want to risk it with no protection. Maybe a 5 minute job to bypass it completely.

Then there is the fact that it can't get stolen unless they take the entire camper. Though not sure how often that happens and many people just lock thier outdoor ones to the pole. Also like I mentioned it is serviceable so no need to carry a spare. Many of the sealed ones are cheaper but they go in the trash if they take a hit. If you have one hit and replace a cheap one and you are at the price point of the internal EMS.

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[Wireman]

Originally Posted by sennister

Not always. The Progressive Industries hardwired one is field repairable the outdoor one is not. It has to be sent in then you are waiting for them to repair it. That might take a couple weeks. The hardwired one can be opened up with 6 screws as there is no waterproofing needed and swap out the surge board which is mailed out as quick as thier shipping department gets to it and the board just gets plugged in. No need to be handy. Mine is under the bunks so not hard to get to.

The install, which isn't hard took 45 min with the mouse hole delete I did at the same time. The only real issue with it is that it is always there. So when on generator, which doesn't have a neutral bonded to ground, the EMS will throw a warning and not power the camper. Not a big deal if you get the more expensive one with the remote display that includes a bypass switch or add the optional bypass switch to the cheaper one. The other option is to make an adapter for the generator to bond the neutral to ground. My display is mounted in the outdoor kitchen so on generator I just flip it to bypass.

Then to remove it when I sell but I wired up a pair of twist locks before and after it. This way if I sell I just have to unplug it and hook the two wires together. It also made installation a lot easier on my workbench rather than laying in the camper. If I have a failure and needed power and want to risk it with no protection. Maybe a 5 minute job to bypass it completely.

Then there is the fact that it can't get stolen unless they take the entire camper. Though not sure how often that happens and many people just lock thier outdoor ones to the pole. Also like I mentioned it is serviceable so no need to carry a spare. Many of the sealed ones are cheaper but they go in the trash if they take a hit. If you have one hit and replace a cheap one and you are at the price point of the internal EMS.

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Here is some info on the 30 amp PI unit I bought. Again, worth every dollar.

Think I got it on sale online from JET for $230 last year.


SURGE PROTECTOR INFO.pdf