Can't Level the Trailer/Slide

[2015 267bshw]

I bought a 2015 267 bhsw last year and I can seem to get the trailer level from side to side. I have levelled the lot I am parked on. When I park the trailer the trailer has a slight lean towards the slide out (when the slide is still in), roughly off by 3/4 inch from side to side. When I push the slide out the trailer drops slightly towards the slide maybe another 1/4 inch. The worst part is the dinette table is sloped towards the exterior wall and is roughly off level by 2 inches in the same direction as the slide. Is this normal? It has been like this since I bought the trailer new.

[Fire_Instructor]

if it's dropping that much, just from running the slide out, I'd suspect a spring or suspension problem.

[jloco]

In addition to a possible suspension problem and I'm by no means an expert, but the extra weight from the slide may cause the lean. At my seasonal site we put a piece of 2x8 under the tires on the slide side to help level things out. Does the slide itself look ok when out? Does it look square to the trailer and not drooping? Is the tire pressure ok on the slide side?
Just some ideas.

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by 2015 267bshw

I bought a 2015 267 bhsw last year and I can seem to get the trailer level from side to side. I have levelled the lot I am parked on. When I park the trailer the trailer has a slight lean towards the slide out (when the slide is still in), roughly off by 3/4 inch from side to side. When I push the slide out the trailer drops slightly towards the slide maybe another 1/4 inch. The worst part is the dinette table is sloped towards the exterior wall and is roughly off level by 2 inches in the same direction as the slide. Is this normal? It has been like this since I bought the trailer new.

This may be a stupid question, but my manual says not to extend the slideout until the trailer is leveled and the stabilzers have been set; not familiar with your exact model, but have you set your stabilizers? (Assuming you have them on that unit.)

[2015 267bshw]

I will try adding an extra piece of wood under the slide side and will check the air pressure. The interior trim is not flush with the remainder of the interior wall, there is about an inch gap between the trim at the bottom and the wall, the trim at the top is flush, I checked a friend's trailer from a different maker and it had the same gap (the seals are touching though). Jayco told me that there should be some of a tipout so that water runs away from the trailer but the slope on the dinette table seems a little extreme. I put the slide out before I put the stabilizers down put the floor only dropped 1/4 of an inch after pushing out the slide. Thanks for the help.

[ShawnR]

My experience is most TT's are built without the carpenter using a square. Floors, counters, tables, bumpers all give me a slightly different reading with a level.

Even with the stabilizers down my TT will list to port when I put the slide out so I always block those tires half a bubble high and the weight of the slide will bring it back to level.

[Mustang65]

Are you using a long level on the floor in the middle of the of the TT to get your readings? That place will be your best bet for the most accurate reading. The frame will twist a little when you start lifting one end or the front or the back and may throw off your exterior readings. When the level bubble shows level, your doors and cabinet doors should not swing (if they were mounted properly). Level side/side first, then front/back second.

There are a zillion recommendations on how to level a TT, so you get to read one more...mine

The best way I found is to compensate for the street side drop when you extend the slide:

1. The first time level the TT with the slide-out (using the level on the floor of the TT and no jacks or stabilizers). Use wood or plastic blocks under the wheels.
2. Now that you have the TT level with the slide out, pull the slide-out back in (still no jacks or stabilizers).
3. Now mount your visual bubble levels so they read level (this will compensate for the difference when you extend the slideout)

So now when you pull into the CG, you level the TT using the compensated leveling bubble.. then extend the slide out and you TT is level. (With the slide-out out your bubble will not be centered.)

Works great for us.

Don

[2015 267bshw]

Thanks for the advice. I am getting the feeling that the slide can really lean the trailer. I am not surprised, the slide has the dinette and the sofa so lots of weight. This is my first slide.

[olyelr]

Originally Posted by Mustang65

The best way I found is to compensate for the street side drop when you extend the slide:

1. The first time level the TT with the slide-out (using the level on the floor of the TT and no jacks or stabilizers). Use wood or plastic blocks under the wheels.
2. Now that you have the TT level with the slide out, pull the slide-out back in (still no jacks or stabilizers).
3. Now mount your visual bubble levels so they read level (this will compensate for the difference when you extend the slideout)

So now when you pull into the CG, you level the TT using the compensated leveling bubble.. then extend the slide out and you TT is level. (With the slide-out out your bubble will not be centered.)

Works great for us.

Don

Great thought, I never thought about doing it like that. But then again, I never noticed that the side-to-side leveling changed when our slide goes out... now I am going to have to check it next time. If it does, it certainly isnt much.

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by olyelr

Great thought, I never thought about doing it like that. But then again, I never noticed that the side-to-side leveling changed when our slide goes out... now I am going to have to check it next time. If it does, it certainly isnt much.

Probably not every slide-out has the same effect on how much the trailer sags on the street side when it is extended. Ours sags almost 3 degrees, which causes the interior door to slowly swing open, same with the fridge door if you open it a little, and the cabinet doors... now they stay where you open them to

DW is much happier now....

This (so far) has done the trick.

Don

[Fire_Instructor]

If you level wheel to wheel, then front to rear, and then set all four stabilizers, the trailer shouldn't sag on the suspension when you move the slides out. The stabilizers are supposed to keep the suspension from moving when you move around inside the trailer....

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor

If you level wheel to wheel, then front to rear, and then set all four stabilizers, the trailer shouldn't sag on the suspension when you move the slides out. The stabilizers are supposed to keep the suspension from moving when you move around inside the trailer....

The stabilizers on our TT are useless. When you walk inside the TT or walk up the stairs, you can feel and see things vibrate I went out and purchased 4 jacks and they work perfect. Neighbor bought the same Harbor Freight jacks and is happy now. When I purchased the TT, the service guy said after having jacks on your last TT, you will probably not be happy with stabilizers... boy was he right

Don

[Rustysocket]

Originally Posted by 2015 267bshw

Thanks for the advice. I am getting the feeling that the slide can really lean the trailer. I am not surprised, the slide has the dinette and the sofa so lots of weight. This is my first slide.

Yes that's normal and to be expected. In the unit in my signature, If the site is level I will still pull my slide side up on a 1/2" blocks prior to deploying my slide. Once deployed it is then level. This technique was developed over many years of learning which way the crayons roll when my daughter is coloring.

[oldmanAZ]

Just a quick note: After the slide is run out, recheck stabilizer jacks on the opposite side. They may need to be tightened a bit to help reduce trailer shaking.

[namusmc65]

I must have eliminated that slide out problem of unleveling the unit. I have opposing slides so if one unlevels, the other must level it back. I have never noticed any drooping with the slides out.

[TWP723]

Originally Posted by namusmc65

I must have eliminated that slide out problem of unleveling the unit. I have opposing slides so if one unlevels, the other must level it back. I have never noticed any drooping with the slides out.

Same here. Having two same size slides on either side of the trailer seem to cancel one another out. Kinda like a tight rope walker with a balance bar..the center of my trailer becomes the fulcrum, making it easier to level.

[olyelr]

Originally Posted by Rustysocket

Yes that's normal and to be expected. In the unit in my signature, If the site is level I will still pull my slide side up on a 1/2" blocks prior to deploying my slide. Once deployed it is then level. This technique was developed over many years of learning which way the crayons roll when my daughter is coloring.

Are you setting your stabilizers down at all four corners prior to pushing the slide out?

It would seem to me if all stabilizers are down prior to moving the slide out, then there would be no way the trailer could lean. No? If the the trailer leaned that would mean the stabilizers on the opposite side of the slide would be off the ground.

[Buffalonian]

Originally Posted by Mustang65

There are a zillion recommendations on how to level a TT, so you get to read one more...mine

The best way I found is to compensate for the street side drop when you extend the slide:

1. The first time level the TT with the slide-out (using the level on the floor of the TT and no jacks or stabilizers). Use wood or plastic blocks under the wheels.
2. Now that you have the TT level with the slide out, pull the slide-out back in (still no jacks or stabilizers).
3. Now mount your visual bubble levels so they read level (this will compensate for the difference when you extend the slideout)

So now when you pull into the CG, you level the TT using the compensated leveling bubble.. then extend the slide out and you TT is level. (With the slide-out out your bubble will not be centered.)

Works great for us.

Don

If someone didn't already think of this trick themselves there must be something wrong with them.

That said, thanks for the tip... the way you explain it makes perfect sense. And yes, there must be something wrong with me, because I never would have thought of this myself :-)

[oldmanAZ]

Originally Posted by olyelr

Are you setting your stabilizers down at all four corners prior to pushing the slide out?

It would seem to me if all stabilizers are down prior to moving the slide out, then there would be no way the trailer could lean. No? If the the trailer leaned that would mean the stabilizers on the opposite side of the slide would be off the ground.

My experience:
I snug (3/8" drill stalls) all 4 stabilizers on mine before running out the slide. But after running out the slide, the two stabilizers opposite the slide are not as tight as the slide side stabilizers. I then snug those two again.

My reasoning why this happens:
There is some flexibility in the frame etc., plus the slide hangs 'outside' of the tires and the stabilizers on the slide side; the slide-side tires and stabilizers become the fulcrum. The weight of the slide then pivots on the fulcrum to raise the non-slide side. In addition, as the slide extends, it is removing the slide's weight from nearer the center of the trailer and moving it all to the slide side so the tires, springs, and stabilizers on the non-slide side are carrying less weight.

[Vaquero]

Originally Posted by Mustang65

The stabilizers on our TT are useless. When you walk inside the TT or walk up the stairs, you can feel and see things vibrate I went out and purchased 4 jacks and they work perfect. Neighbor bought the same Harbor Freight jacks and is happy now. When I purchased the TT, the service guy said after having jacks on your last TT, you will probably not be happy with stabilizers... boy was he right

Don

Which jacks?
I'd love to ditch the stbilizers.