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Old 08-12-2016, 09:55 AM   #21
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It's not just JAYCO, every manuf requires annual inspoections. The owner's manual says inspect and reseal as needed. That is where Eternabond solves all problems, they claim it's good for 15 years once applied.

Sorry for being unclear. I wasn't disputing it needed inspection. We did inspect, 2x per year. I was saying we didn't remember reading anything about having to reseal the entire roof yearly; which is what the dealer said. All we remembered was "reseal as needed" and to our eye, it wasn't needed yet but has some newer cracks (not holes) that would need it soon. That is why we want to review the manual to see if it says to reseal the entire roof yearly.
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:25 AM   #22
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Thumbs down Same thing on my x213

We had the same thing happen except we didn't catch it in time (sitting all winter in Seattle rain). So the exterior and interior are all buckled. Now i have to replace the whole front exterior of the trailer and the internal paneling. Warranty is done. The extended warranty doesn't cover it, insurance doesn't cover it. I also didn't think that I needed to reseal it every year, and taking a closer look... the original seal job is totally ****ty. Not what I would expect from Jayco at all. #notimpressed
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:50 AM   #23
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Well I am glad this thread is here as a reminder to all of us to inspect our roofs more. I am going to get on top of my X213 this weekend.

Is there anything in particular I should be looking for? Can I ever but sealant on top of sealant or do I really need to remove it all first? What is the best way to remove sealant?

And for you X213 owners out there - are you comfortable walking on your roof? Its a little bouncy but otherwise feels like you should be able to walk on it a few times a year with no issues, right?
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:58 AM   #24
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Here's the pics

Hard to tell if it's leaking before some damage is done. In my case, i didn't catch it early. Definitely look for any bubbling / buckling of the interior or exterior (see pics) and get on it as soon as you think you may have a problem.

Also looking for advise on regular resealing tips
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Old 08-12-2016, 12:02 PM   #25
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pics

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20160410_113104_resized.jpg   20160410_113250_resized.jpg   20160410_113008_resized.jpg  
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Old 08-12-2016, 12:12 PM   #26
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pics
What you are seeing in the second picture is pretty much standard in the industry as to how a front cap is joined and sealed from the factories. For EPDM (rubber) roofs, that caulking needs to be cleaned and inspected at least yearly. You can clean it with mineral spirits (try not to get too much on the roof membrane itself) then overlap any bad spots in the caulking with Dicor where needed (no need to remove the old caulking). A small pin-hole can create HUGE problems! On my fiver, I cleaned this area and applied a 6" piece of EternaBond the entire length of the seam, then sealed the edges of the tape with a small amount of Dicor just for good measure.
As for re-sealing the ENTIRE roof on a regular basis...I've never heard of that and I've had two 5ers with no leaks while performing routine maintenance. Gotta do it though cuz it'll get away from you before you know it.
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Old 08-12-2016, 12:15 PM   #27
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What you are seeing in the second picture is pretty much standard in the industry as to how a front cap is joined and sealed from the factories. For EPDM (rubber) roofs, that caulking needs to be cleaned and inspected at least yearly. You can clean it with mineral spirits (try not to get too much on the roof membrane itself) then overlap any bad spots in the caulking with Dicor where needed (no need to remove the old caulking). A small pin-hole can create HUGE problems! On my fiver, I cleaned this area and applied a 6" piece of EternaBond the entire length of the seam, then sealed the edges of the tape with a small amount of Dicor just for good measure.
As for re-sealing the ENTIRE roof on a regular basis...I've never heard of that and I've had two 5ers with no leaks while performing routine maintenance. Gotta do it though cuz it'll get away from you before you know it.
Got it so it sounds like at least most of the time the leak issue is at the front cap seal? I need to educate myself on this EternaBond stuff...
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Old 08-12-2016, 12:45 PM   #28
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I need to educate myself on this EternaBond stuff...
+1

Time to invest in a roll of Eternabond and/or the supercoat F9951 stuff.
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Old 08-12-2016, 01:48 PM   #29
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Another good thing to do is to either take your trailer in, or build, your own leak tester. This is basically a fan that pressurizes the inside of the trailer. You then go around all the seams with soapy water, if you see a bubble you've got a leak.
If you search on this forum (and other major RV forums) you will find examples of how to build one yourself. If you want to, a lot of RV places have commercial leak testers as well.
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Old 08-12-2016, 01:55 PM   #30
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If Eternabond does the job I wonder why the RV industry doesn't adjust to this.
I used Eternabond Tape myself and it does a nicer job. A tick layer of Dicor just creates a dam to pool water.

The same thing for the foam window seals (which are mostly poorly installed) many will leak in the first year, why not go to the automotive seals. I have many windows resealed for other RVers. Damage by water is very costly due the time consuming repairs.
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