Delivery/First Pull and set up

[finally03gt]

We took delivery of our 2015 Jay Flight 26BH yesterday. Tow vehicle is a 2015 Ford Explorer Sport with 3.5 TT EcoBoost and Tow package. We are using a Husky Round Bar WDH with the friction type sway controler, and P3 brake controller. Picked up at Lone Star RV in Houston, and drove about 20 miles north to Conroe.
It loaded nicely, and I was impressed with the power of my TV. About 5 miles in, I felt a few wiggles. I've never used a WDH or Sway controller before, and I've never pulled a TT, so I wasn't completely sure what to expect. Maybe I was just being hyper-sensitive, but I pulled off and tightened the sway bar a bit, and that seemed to help. I actually had to watch my speed to stay under 70mph. Once in town the sway bar popped and creaked a good bit. Oh, and I need some mirror BADLY..haha. All in all, I was pleasantly surprised at the job the little Explorer did with a trailer that size and I averaged about 11.5 mpg.
Questions:
1. Will running the sway bar a little tight damage anything, or just be noisy?
2. When setting up I leveled with the tongue jack fwd/back. But when I put any significant weight on the stabilizers, I lost weight on the tongue jack. Any recommendations?
3. I leveled using the sheet metal seems, and the frame. They were not completely the same and the fridge kinda split the difference. What point of reference do you guys use?

[NVGun40]

Your Sway Bar, most likely, was not the one making much of the creaking noise. That comes from the WD bars and the shifting of the trailer axles in turns. Running with your sway bar a little tight should not be any issue out on the open road. When you start getting into town and taking 90 degree turns, you should loosen it. Also, DO NOT back up with the sway bar on; it could cause damage.
When you put significant weight on the stabilizers it will take weight off the tongue jack. You shouldn't be putting that much weight on the stabilizers. Snug them down to keep the TT from rocking that's it.

I have always leveled my TT's using a traditional level in the middle of the floor close to the front of the refrigerator. Front to back, side to side and diagonals. Once I had it completely level and stabilized, I installed RV level bubbles on the front of the TT where I can view it in my TV's side view mirror for the side to side level reading, and then on the front drivers side corner of the TT for the front to back reading.

[finally03gt]

Ok, that makes sense. I notice grease zerks on the the head, maybe a shot of grease wouldn't hurt. Got the back info, but thanks for the tip.

The stabilizers are the scissor style, and I've used similar jack to lift a car. I was told they were leveling jacks, and they could carry weight, as long as I wasn't lifting the axles off the ground. I was also told I wouldn't need leveling block unless the ground was really off, b/c the jacks could be used to level. SO, is there a difference between leveling jacks and stabilizers?

I like the level idea. Thanks.

[NVGun40]

I do have to be blunt on this. What are the tow specs on your TV? (GVWR, axle loads, etc.) What are the specs on your TT? I bring this up, because it seems like you may be very close to maximum for your TV, even with a tow package. Something else to be careful of is wheel base lengths.
I say this because you may experience sway/wiggle due to a "tail wagging the dog" effect. Just be careful and be patient.
Also note, trailer tires are usually rated for safe travel at 65MPH max. 5 miles per hour may not seem like a big deal but it can be very big deal. Even with my very capable rig towing my TT, I rarely exceed 62 to 63 MPH, and I hold a steady 13 to 14.5 MPG on a 3/4 ton truck.

[Knauby]

Originally Posted by finally03gt

Ok, that makes sense. I notice grease zerks on the the head, maybe a shot of grease wouldn't hurt. Got the back info, but thanks for the tip.

The stabilizers are the scissor style, and I've used similar jack to lift a car. I was told they were leveling jacks, and they could carry weight, as long as I wasn't lifting the axles off the ground. I was also told I wouldn't need leveling block unless the ground was really off, b/c the jacks could be used to level. SO, is there a difference between leveling jacks and stabilizers?

I like the level idea. Thanks.

I wouldn't be too sure that using your stabilizers to level is a great idea. I honestly don't know about your trailer model but my past experiences with TT has been that they are stabilizers, not jacks, and will not take the weight for leveling. I would suggest you double check that before you cause any damage.

[NVGun40]

Leveling jacks versus stabilizers.... not really any difference just wording. Scissor style is good. C style, I am not a fan of. A lot of people use leveling blocks regardless, because fully extended scissor jacks can flex a lot. While they can take the weight, it doesn't mean you have to put the weight on them. leveling and stabilizing in the campground should be a combination of weight and stabilization between the jacks and the tongue jack, and the axles. You will get used to it. Have fun and find what is comfortable for you and your family. Remember it's a trailer, not a house, it has comforts but will never be as solid as a house. It's meant to be portable so there has to be give and take there.

[NVGun40]

You should always attempt to get the TT as level as possible while it is sitting on its wheels. This may mean backing into a space and checking side to side level and then pulling forward and placing boards or leveling blocks under one side. There are threads throughout these forums with great advice and even links to charts and information on ratio's (a 2 inch block under one tire on one side raises the TT 1 inch on that side, etc.).
Then when you unhitch, get the TT front to rear level using the tongue jack, and once set, snug every thing down with the stabilizers to reduce the rocking.

[usmc616]

I only heard of leveling jacks on high end units and they were either electricor hydraulic. When I get to my site,,I level side to side using lynx levelers, I remove the wd system, unhitch from the ball, level front to back using the tongue jack, chock my wheels, remove my chains, extend my slides, hook up electric, water, sewer and cable. Only then do I lower my stabilizer jacks, this way I have given the tires some time to cool down. I also try to never lower the stabilizers more than 5-6" by using lynx levelers under them. After an hour or so I double check the stabilizers to ensure they are not overly extended.

[EricRom]

Not to rain on your setup but you have too much trailer for your explorer. Max tow rating is 5000 lbs and the trailer is 4700 dry and max tongue weight is 500 and the trailer is 475. Not having a solid rear axle for your tow vehicle just aren't made for towing. An F150 would be much more suitable for the job.

Leveling trailer should be done be leveling it side to side with something under the tires and then front to back using the tongue jack. Then when everything is level you drop your jacks on all 4 corners to stabilize the trailer. Use the x chokes between the wheels to minimize movement in the trailer.

[NVGun40]

Originally Posted by EricRom

Not to rain on your setup but you have too much trailer for your explorer. Max tow rating is 5000 lbs and the trailer is 4700 dry and max tongue weight is 500 and the trailer is 475. Not having a solid rear axle for your tow vehicle just aren't made for towing. An F150 would be much more suitable for the job.

x2 - kind of what I was eluding to. I am sure you are thinking everything looked good on paper and the dealership probably told you things would be fine, same with the techs. The thinking is these guy sell these things and set them up for a living, they are professionals. There is the rub, "they sell these things for a living." It is becoming more and more common to see smaller vehicles towing trailers which are to much for the vehicle. Especially with these lightweight and ultra light weight trailers.

On these forums I would venture to say the wealth of knowledge regarding towing capacities, practices and procedures and safety amounts to an equivalent of hundreds of years of experience. Ask the hard questions you probably don't want to hear the answers to. Remember, when your trailer is full of water and camping gear it can weigh another 1000 pounds and your tongue weight can climb another 100 to 200 pounds depending on what you have loaded and where it is loaded.
As you stated, you have already towed it with no problems, but you still asked a question about the sway bar and stated you had some wiggle. You also stated a surprise about your speed. I am saying, be careful. If you're not over your TV's weight limits you are right at them. Being right at the limits is not safe, it looks good on paper but in reality....

[finally03gt]

Thanks for all the feed back and advice. As mentioned, when dry, I am near limits.
Door sticker is 6300# gross. The front is in the 3200#, rear is 3350#, from the FoMoCo door sticker. Yellow tire sticker says 1227# cargo, but doesn't list a GVWR. Owners manual says, as equipped with WDH, up to 5000# trailer, and Combined GVWR of 10,400# GVWR. Guy in the explorer forum recently scaled his Explorer at 4980# with him and 2/3 tank. So, 4980# truck, 4780# for Dry TT is 9760#. This leaves 640# for cargo and 5 passengers (all teenage girls and a wife). So, at the end of the day, I'll probably be over by passenger weight of 650# (ish). Another topic of discussion In our home is having one of the girls drive, with some passenger and cargo weight off the TV. The TT was not even considered when we bought the Explorer 5 months ago. My target speed was 60-65 mph, the only reason I mentions having to monitor was to note that the power of the TV was not struggling at all. Wheel base and mass vs mass was my concern from the beginning. I've pulled serveral trailers, including 10,500# combined GVW on a 1995 F150 with no trailer brakes. I've abused a few trucks, and know what that feels like. I did not feel like I was abusing the Explorer, and the wiggles I felt were very likely tail wagging the dog... lol. But I was probably also hyper sensitive b/c of it being a lot of new variables and knowing I'm at the edge. I'm not even sure a passenger would have noticed it. I do appreciate and respect the advice and experience hear.

Looks like time to find some leveling blocks. Anyone have an estimated torque for the jacks. I'm certain I didn't put 10-15 ft/lbs on the screw before it actually took weight. Maybe hand tight plus XX turns?

[NVGun40]

Hand tight plus maybe 2 turns. After a hour check them again and snug them up.
Definitely leveling blocks, you can purchase Lynx levelers or the Camco type. They are both good. I had the Lynx with my old 5er. Then we went a few years without any trailers. I was going to get some more blocks, but somehow ended up with some extra pressure treated 2x6's which I handmade into some nice ramp blocks for the tires and I was given some 10inch x 10inch x 30inch blocks which I was able to make into blocks for the four corner stabilizers. It will be up to you.

With regards to the rest. I will give this to the explorer. That TT 3.5 engine does put out and impressive amount of power. Many people will cry the benefits of CAT scales. I know CAT scales are not available everywhere, however, I will echo the benefits of grabbing the family and the whole works and going to a scale and getting everything weighed. This way you know for sure.

[finally03gt]

After I pulled over to tighten the sway bar, I layed in to get up to speed before merging. I got back up to 60mph in about 150 yrds. I was impressed, and cruising was about 2300 rpm with no struggle to hold 6th.

I'm on the scale idea. I went to a local feed store before I came home, but their scale wasn't long enough.. haha.

[need-a-vacation]

Glad to hear you guys are liking the new rig!!!

If it hasn't been mentioned before (your other thread), when you are able to hit the scales, try to find a CAT Scale as it has three scales to weigh the steer axle (front), drive axle (tv rear), and the trailer axles.

You will want to weigh three times total.
1: Truck and Trailer ready to roll down the road with the wd bars latched up.
2: Truck and trailer with the wd bars unlatched, but in the back of the Explorer.
3: Explorer only, hitch still in the receiver and the wd bars in the back.

We can decipher all the weights from those. Scales will tell if you have the wd bars (hitch head angle) adjusted right to restore the lost weight back to the front axle (depending on what Ford states, 50-100%).

[finally03gt]

I read your other post on that. I fully plan to do it, and I know where a couple are within about 15 miles. My household has accused me of being a little OCD, but they'll have to humor me on this one..haha.

[Murff]

Hmmm...

You may want to go buy a new tow vehicle. I try to stay out of these threads regarding weights but EricRom has it pegged pretty well. Your Explorer is rated to tow 5000 pounds.

Here are the specs from the Jayco website for a 2015 26BHS:

Weights & Measures

Weights Unloaded Vehicle Weight 5,470 Dry
Hitch Weight 675
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating 7,750
Cargo Carrying Capacity 2,280
Measurements Exterior Length29' 11"
Exterior Width96"
Exterior Height with A/C133"



Your Explorer is overloaded by 470 pounds before you put anything in the trailer. Your tongue weight is overloaded by 175 pounds. These figures were obtained here:

2015 Jay Flight 26BHS | Jayco, Inc.

and here:

http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/g...orer_Sep30.pdf

Some folk think I am nuts to pull a 2015 20MRB with a 2008 Explorer Sport Trac. It's rated to pull 7100 lbs but the 20MRB weighs under 6000 loaded for a trip and tows comfortably. Your 26BH would be too much for my TV.

Just putting out the information. I hope your combination doesn't break something at an inopportune time.

Murff

EDIT:

I see you have already been advised on the above in another thread. I don't mean to be harsh but after 32 years of towing an RV with short wheel base vehicles, your combination scares the **** out of me.

[finally03gt]

26BH, not BH S - no slides. Yellow sticker on the TT states 4830 as shipped with propane tanks full. Thanks for looking out for the newbies though. We need it...
Unloaded Vehicle Weight (lbs) 4,365
Dry Hitch Weight (lbs) 485
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (lbs) 7,000
Cargo Carrying Capacity (lbs) 2,635
2015 Jay Flight 26BH | Jayco, Inc.

Definitely on the edge....

[Murff]

Definitely on the edge....

No, way over, IMHO.

Murff

[Jack in Alaska]

NVGUN40..........

You have hit all of my points right on. The two most important is that he is towing it too fast and his TV is way too small with the wrong type rear axle and lack of good mirrors. Who sold him that package. He needs a good *** whipping.
THe owner will find out about too fast when the tread comes off one of those overloaded China tires and tears hell out of his rig.

[bap]

Originally Posted by Jack in Alaska

NVGUN40..........

You have hit all of my points right on. The two most important is that he is towing it too fast and his TV is way too small with the wrong type rear axle and lack of good mirrors. Who sold him that package. He needs a good ass whipping.
THe owner will find out about too fast when the tread comes off one of those overloaded China tires and tears **** out of his rig.

Or worse yet, he loses control and causes an accident that injured or kills somebody else.