Dexter Electronic Entry Issues

[mwebber78]

We had a unique issue with the keyless lock - the lock froze in the locked position and wouldn't allow us to exit the camper! I removed the screws inside, had to exit thru a window and we removed entire assembly. The thing us a POS and I am not pleased, it's the 4th of July and of course everyone at Dexter and Jayco is on holiday. To override the lock pin I removed no less then two stickers that say "if broken voids warranty" - they've got to be $!@& kidding.... I've reinstalled the assemble without the locking pin until I can reach someone tomorrow. I plan on sharing my thoughts on the warranty warning sticker when I call.

[wwsmith111]

LOL, it just goes to show that crap happens! I once bought a new Porsche on Xmas eve that had computer controlled locks. I couldn't get the car to unlock when I got home so I wound up having to crawl out the window to get out of the car. It turns out that it helps to read the owners manual...

[rog4kneer]

always wondered what was wrong with the simple key lock. Have the electronic lock on our new 308 rets and have not inserted batteries and don't know if I will. Key works fine. What is any are the advantages of keyless lock. One more thing to worry about and batteries to change.

[Whistler]

Our 308 RETS also has the electronic security lock. It uses the house batteries for power with the power transfer on the door hinge side. Ours does not fully engage the deadbolt, so I still use the keys for the handle and the deadbolt.
mwebber, was the deadbolt not able to be unlocked from the inside? The solinoid actuators are usually spring held.

[jdorant]

I bought the battery powered keyless entry from my dealer. Apparently this is a newer product to Dexter and I have had mine changed out a few times. They have been great to deal with and I now how a working unit.

[mwebber78]

Originally Posted by Whistler

Our 308 RETS also has the electronic security lock. It uses the house batteries for power with the power transfer on the door hinge side. Ours does not fully engage the deadbolt, so I still use the keys for the handle and the deadbolt.
mwebber, was the deadbolt not able to be unlocked from the inside? The solinoid actuators are usually spring held.

The unit is battery only, and the bolt is silinoid actuated and directly connected, no springs or "soft" connections - therefore it had to open the unit and break the connection.

[JSumeracki]

Okay, just bought our Jayco used last month. It has the Dexter Keyless lock with keypad. I have already zapped the factory codes (previous owner did not) and set my own.

We have already experienced the deadbolt failing to UNLOCK after locking, fortunately while we are on the outside. Entering the code several times causes the solenoid (actuator) to forcefully clunk, yet the deadbolt remains locked. The key is able to override manually but the problem returns sometimes the same day, but always within a week.

I checked alignment of the striker plate and lubricated everything I could short of opening up the mechanism. I also cleaned the contacts in the door jamb that supply power with contact cleaner and additional polishing. Operation is fine, just the deadbolt mechanism is intermittent. I strongly suspect the actuator is failing, but cannot find the parts manual online (VD0510-00) nor can I find parts through standard search attempts.

Mine has the horizontal keypad and I do have a copy of the installation and programming instructions VD0508-00, ECN 17936 dated 4/20/11. Not being that old, I am sure parts are still available. Any help out there? My next step is to take it apart and inspect and grease everything in there. Appreciate any suggestions.

I love the convenience of using the keyless for short term convenience while camping to avoid needing to carry keys everywhere, but cannot trust this door lock right now.

[JSumeracki]

Took mechanism apart to discover (a) manufacturer uses a relatively thick pink colored lithium grease on the rotating deadbolt latching mechanism, and (b) I am able to easily replicate the failure by applying light pressure on the latch (holding it out) when entering the code to unlatch it.

In other words, it takes VERY little friction to get this solenoid to fail. I suspect the actuator (solenoid) is fine, engineered to be "borderline" strength and the combination of thick grease and cold weather is just enough friction to make my deadbolt intermittent.

Guess I will keep my keys in hand for now until I determine if the thinner spray silicone grease I added tonight reduces or eliminates the problem.

[JSumeracki]

Just a follow-up, cleaning, checking alignment and further (lighter) lubrication did not help. Replacing the actuator is next.