Did you pay for EZ Lube axle and not get it?

[Wireman]

Originally Posted by jjvirginia

Yes, new pads on 3 of 4 drums plus 2 cans of brake fluid.

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Brake fluid? I'm missing something in my old age.

[Bassdogs]

I have had EZ lubes on my current and previous TT's and have never used them. Due to take my 2014 in for a repack before fall. Have to ask, how does an EZ lub hub get grease on the breaks unless the seal leaks?

[Sundancer330]

The rear seal is the weak link in the system, to much pressure blows the seal and allows grease into the drum area.

[reeses]

Originally Posted by Sundancer330

Dexter recommendations are 12 months or 12,000 miles. I like to take everything apart at the end of the season and inspect the bearings and cups, also look over the brakes and spray out all the brake dust and wipe them down. Only takes me maybe an hour to do all this and when spring comes I am ready to go.

Sundancer thank you for the reply.

After watching youtube videos, I've been searching amazon for the proper seals to replace when repacking the bearings. Can you suggest or share a link of what I should replace? Dust covers and grease seals?

Also, do you spray out the brake dust with compressed air or brake cleaner? I see some people say not to use brake cleaner inside the drum.

Thanks again!

[Sundancer330]

Originally Posted by reeses

Sundancer thank you for the reply.

After watching youtube videos, I've been searching amazon for the proper seals to replace when repacking the bearings. Can you suggest or share a link of what I should replace? Dust covers and grease seals?

Also, do you spray out the brake dust with compressed air or brake cleaner? I see some people say not to use brake cleaner inside the drum.

Thanks again!

What you need to replace is the inner and outer bearings with the cups/races and the rear seal. To find the bearing and seal part numbers crawl under your trailer and look for the model/weight info tag on the axle. Then go to Dexters web site and looks under parts to find the correct part numbers, then you can cross ref Dexter numbers to Timken. I found Amazon to have the best pricing, they also have sets which will be the bearing and cup/race, its a bit cheaper than buying separate. I also bought the seal/race driver, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1, and grease packer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1, makes the job much easier with both tools. I just spray everything down with brake clean and wipe off with lint free towels.

[jjvirginia]

Originally Posted by Sundancer330

What you need to replace is the inner and outer bearings with the cups/races and the rear seal..

I don't replace bearings or races unless upon inspection there is pitting or evidence of over heating. If you properly clean, repack with maufacturers recommended grease, your bearings / races will last a long time.

Each year, on my repack, all I buy is the rear seals, grease, brake cleaner and maybe a cotter pin because everything else is in great shape.

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[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by Sundancer330

Dexter recommendations are 12 months or 12,000 miles. I like to take everything apart at the end of the season and inspect the bearings and cups, also look over the brakes and spray out all the brake dust and wipe them down. Only takes me maybe an hour to do all this and when spring comes I am ready to go.

I Agree!!!

I've owned a few boat trailers, and a few camping trailers over the many years... I have seen a lot of trailers with bearing grease all over the brake assembly (including my own) after blowing out a rear seal with too much grease. Travel Trailers don't get the axles immersed in the water like Boat Trailers do... but the inner and outer bearings are virtually identical and they NEED grease.

Boat trailers get immersed in cold water, usually when they are very hot from a long drive to the marina - that is why they deserve a shot of grease to prevent ingestion of water into the wheel bearings. displacement of water with Grease is a good thing, prevents corrosion of the bearings, race and spindles.

Now... Nothing can substitute for a good "old fashioned visual inspection" every year... and it does not take that much time if you are doing it every year. If you have happened to blow out the rear seal with too much grease, you can catch and clean up the issue and put new seals in (you should always replace the seals... do it anyways)

[ctbailey]

If folks are blowing their rear seals when using the Zerk fitting on their EZ Lube hubs.... they are simply using too much grease.

EZ Lube is NOT equivalent to a "Bearing Buddy." the "Bearing Buddy" system is what most of you are mistakenly comparing to the EZ Lube system. "Bearing Buddy" is what boat trailer builders use, because the Buddy provides positive grease pressure on the front race, to prevent water ingestion.

The EZ Lube routes grease to the rear race, with an outflow around the edges and back to the front grease cap.

about 10 pumps from a 14oz. manual grease gun every other year is all you need in an EZ Lube system. Guys that break down and hand repack every 12 months are wasting time and money.

That being said... folks that go 4 years between ANY hub services are asking for trouble.

Everything in moderation. Yes they need to be serviced. But do we need to be scaring the bejesus out of new folks about every single system on an RV?