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03-25-2011, 05:47 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Plymouth, MA
Posts: 44
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Do I need or want stabilizer arms? - JT Strong Arm, etc
Hello,
Just ordered a new Jayco 29BHS. I have a family of 5 and I upgraded from a lightweight travel trailer. My other travel trailer used to bounce a ton when people walked around etc. I added the X Bal Chock on my tires and that helped but if I kept that trailer I was going to add the strong arms.
I would like to minimize movement as much as possible in the new trailer and again I am coming back to the JT Strong arms for my new camper.
1. Would current Jayco 29BHS owners or similiar trailer owners suggest I would want these?
2. One brand over another?
3. I have the enclosed underbelly should I install these myself or have the dealer do it.
Thanks
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03-25-2011, 07:32 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 53
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I have purchased them for my 29BHS, haven't put them on yet. Keep waiting for it to get a little warmer.
__________________
2010 Jayco Jayflight G2 29BHS, Husky HB4500 power jack, Hunter 44260 Digital Thermostat, JT Strongarm stabilizers.
2007 Dodge 2500 5.9L diesel, twin turbos, Edge Juice w/attitude CTS w/backup camera, MBRP full exhaust, 48RE auto tranny (stock for now), Pacbrake exhaust brake, Riderite airbags.
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03-25-2011, 07:53 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Calgary
Posts: 524
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With 5 people walking around your unit, I bet it won't be long before you do something and I can tell you they really work if used as advertised. You might have to adjust them about once a week to get the full benefit. Best money I spent on my unit,
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03-25-2011, 08:18 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 388
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I've been looking for something like this as well, but I think I'm just going to add in another set of jacks near the axles. It's a cheaper option, and should take out most of the bounce.
Also, I have the rear pull out tray on my 32BHDS... does anyone know if the JT system would work with this in place? From the pictures, it looks like the stabilizer arms would need to mount right where my tray is located.
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03-25-2011, 08:52 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia`s Eastern Shore
Posts: 17,093
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Poor man`s stabilizers. I bought a set of these (4) on Ebay for around 15.00 on auction. I only use 2, I put one on each side in front of the axles under the frame. These act as center stabilizers and do a good job of reducing motion because they tighten up solid under the frame. Just a little more setup time then using a 3rd set of stabilizers in the center which I have considered adding like Texas AM. -Lee
__________________
2017 Coachmen Catalina 283RKS
2018 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.2l CCSB
2010 Jayflight 28BHS (sold)
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03-25-2011, 06:30 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Woodstock, Ontario
Posts: 1,029
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Texas A&M I have the jt's on my 5er with the pullout tray. They go on no trouble at all.The arms on the back angle forward and in to the centr trailer.
__________________
Dave & Shelley GMC Ext cab Dually 4x4. Duramax Deisel.Allison trans.2010 Jayco Eagle superlite 31.5 RLDS 5er.
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03-25-2011, 06:33 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Woodstock, Ontario
Posts: 1,029
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bgarv 29bhs As far as i'm concerned you won't find a more effective product at taking the shake out of a trailer than jt's.
__________________
Dave & Shelley GMC Ext cab Dually 4x4. Duramax Deisel.Allison trans.2010 Jayco Eagle superlite 31.5 RLDS 5er.
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03-25-2011, 09:46 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Idaho/Arizona
Posts: 5,446
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I have BAL chocks and jacks on all corners. I plan to do the same thing as Crabman. I think one on each side in front of the tires will do it.
__________________
2011 Eagle 330RLTS with just about every option.
2017 Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3 with tow package. (no, we don't tow the Jayco with it.)
2018 Surveyor 265RLDS well equipped.
Life in the slow lane is still life.
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03-28-2011, 08:59 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 388
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Thanks for the info hammer. I'm thinking of adding either an extra set of stabilizers or the JT solution sometime in the next couple of months. The hard part for me will be the install since it would be tough to do it at the storage lot (would be out of luck if I forgot a specific tool, laying in the gravel, etc) and also at home, since I would be laying in the middle of the street!
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03-28-2011, 10:05 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 414
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Crabman.
I agree with your idea. re: Using adjustable Jack stands instead of under built factory scissor jacks & sideways stablizer bars. Although to me, it isn't a "poor mans" fix. It's actually "the smart man's fix". Especially when elimination of movement is needed.
If wondering, I use many 6-ton (next time, I will use 12 ton for more stability) axle stands under my long TT. They are set approx 6ft apart - down each steel frame rail. They eliminate both up/down bounce and sideways wiggle. For picture, surf: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0696.jpg
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IMO - Have the RV dealer install the enclosed underbelly plastic material sheets. If you install it and encounter future problems, it might void factory warranty. If they install it and accidentally screw into a wire or water line, then they fix it (under their dime). As soon as the base warranty is completed, suggest removing the enclosed under belly material, install Contractor Grade Closed Cell @ 2 lbs approx 3.5-4.0" thick Spray Foam, then re-install the enclosed under belly materail. If wondering, my Jayco TT has spray foam on its underbelly. That Contractor Grade Spray Foam is amazing. If applied properly with sceen screen covering access holes (then spray foaming), it keeps critters out, it keeps heat / cold in (which saved energy while bone docking) and best of all, Spray Foam @ 3.5 - 4.0" thick "tightens up" floor movement. To me, all TTs/RVs must use Spray Foam insulation in their base build (but that's a topic for a different post).
Hope this helps in our research....
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03-28-2011, 10:55 AM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia`s Eastern Shore
Posts: 17,093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spike99
Crabman.
I agree with your idea. re: Using adjustable Jack stands instead of under built factory scissor jacks & sideways stablizer bars. Although to me, it isn't a "poor mans" fix. It's actually "the smart man's fix". Especially when elimination of movement is needed.
If wondering, I use many 6-ton (next time, I will use 12 ton for more stability) axle stands under my long TT. They are set approx 6ft apart - down each steel frame rail. They eliminate both up/down bounce and sideways wiggle. For picture, surf: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0696.jpg
----------------
IMO - Have the RV dealer install the enclosed underbelly plastic material sheets. If you install it and encounter future problems, it might void factory warranty. If they install it and accidentally screw into a wire or water line, then they fix it (under their dime). As soon as the base warranty is completed, suggest removing the enclosed under belly material, install Contractor Grade Closed Cell @ 2 lbs approx 3.5-4.0" thick Spray Foam, then re-install the enclosed under belly materail. If wondering, my Jayco TT has spray foam on its underbelly. That Contractor Grade Spray Foam is amazing. If applied properly with sceen screen covering access holes (then spray foaming), it keeps critters out, it keeps heat / cold in (which saved energy while bone docking) and best of all, Spray Foam @ 3.5 - 4.0" thick "tightens up" floor movement. To me, all TTs/RVs must use Spray Foam insulation in their base build (but that's a topic for a different post).
Hope this helps in our research....
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Yeah they ( Jackstands) do a nice job and I see others using them as well. I guess the poor mans reference was to me, and the fact that they were cheap. I think they are around only 30 to 40 bucks for a set of 4 in the stores such as Walmart. And they are lightweight.
__________________
2017 Coachmen Catalina 283RKS
2018 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.2l CCSB
2010 Jayflight 28BHS (sold)
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03-28-2011, 04:50 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Woodstock, Ontario
Posts: 1,029
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Texas A@M The jt's are very easy to install. I myself am very mechanicly enclined and can tackle just about any project with ease. The jt's took me about 35 minutes to install with minimal tools. You will need a drill and a set of drillbits and a socket set. It should only take about an hour for the non mechanical type to do the job. The instructions are good and if followed the job is easy.
__________________
Dave & Shelley GMC Ext cab Dually 4x4. Duramax Deisel.Allison trans.2010 Jayco Eagle superlite 31.5 RLDS 5er.
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03-29-2011, 08:25 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 388
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Good to know. I'm mechanically inclined as well, but don't have the space to work on it. I may just have to roll out some carpet at the storage lot so that it's easier to crawl underneath (rocky ground, not asphalt).
I still can't decide if I want to add them or another set of jacks near the axles. I may start with the jacks since they would be cheaper.
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03-29-2011, 09:55 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 388
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Was just looking for more info on the JT Strongarm system, and I found the Steadyfast... Anyone have any experience with this setup? Looks to be a simpler design than JT, and easier to install as well.
http://www.steadyfast.com/index.html
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04-12-2011, 02:07 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Plymouth, MA
Posts: 44
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Great thank you for all the feedback. I tried other solutions before like Wayne's Stabilizer Bars etc http://www.waynesrvstabilizer.com/ After crawling around and messing with all these gadgets when I got to the campground I grew tired of it and they did not work all that well. Also I had to store them in transit from point A to B. I told myself when I got a new camper I was going to get every option I wanted and all the accessories on day one so I can just camp and enjoy. I think ability to put down the jacks and turn a nut of each JT will be the way to go for me. The only other option that I will get on day one is the MaxxAir cover.
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04-12-2011, 06:27 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 388
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I installed a third set of stabilizers right in front of the axle last weekend. Will be trying it out the next two weekends. If they don't sufficiently take the sway out, I'll be going with the Steadyfast system... I like the idea of everything being attached already and the ease of setup and tear down. I don't want to have to carry jack stands everywhere I go. I pack enough toys as it is!
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04-13-2011, 12:00 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Plymouth, MA
Posts: 44
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Do you have the Bal X chock on the tires or something similiar?
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04-13-2011, 01:04 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 388
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Yep, got those first. They helped, but didn't take enough out. I probably could have just started out with the SteadyFast or JT system, but I went the other way... I like to tinker and experiment, and have never minded overkill, so it will eventually work itself out. I'll let you know how the third set of stabilizers work... I do expect them to take the flex out of the middle of the trailer, but they may not remove all of the wiggle (most noticeable when laying in the front bed while other people are moving around).
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04-24-2011, 02:39 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: AZ, SSA (Squabbling States of America)
Posts: 1,432
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Since I will be leaving any TT I buy to live in fulltime set up for extended periods (4-8 months at a time), I don't want to keep any weight on the tires nor have them contacting the ground. I'm considering getting four automotive scissors jacks to raise the tires an inch or two off the ground (more, if needed, to level from side to side). I can fasten them to a flat pad with tapered sides (to make scootching them across the ground easier) and use a long crank to both position them under the axles (as close to the springs as possible to avoid bending the axles) and to crank them up without crawling under the trailer (at my age, I don't crawl so well anymore) Since each one will be at an angle to the others, they should also help with reducing rock. I also plan on getting the optional electric stabilizer jacks on the TT. Based on how they are made, they look like they will have less sway than the standard scissor stabilizers. Of course, being operable by pushbutton will be really nice. Just lower a pair of them until one leg just touches a pad on the ground, then add shims and blocks under the other one until the gap is filled, then finish lowering them. I'm also thinking of having the dealer add another pair in front of the axles just to make sure the unit won't sway.
The Bal X chocks are great for short term but any loss of air pressure (quite possible over even a short term) will render the chocks nonfunctional.
__________________
Jeannie
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04-28-2011, 07:01 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabman
Poor man`s stabilizers. I bought a set of these (4) on Ebay for around 15.00 on auction. I only use 2, I put one on each side in front of the axles under the frame. These act as center stabilizers and do a good job of reducing motion because they tighten up solid under the frame. Just a little more setup time then using a 3rd set of stabilizers in the center which I have considered adding like Texas AM. -Lee
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I really like this idea, and I have a few of these just laying around from when they moved this place in! Gonna head out to the garage and clean them up, powder coat, and put in the back of the Suburban! My wife and I are both on the hefty side, and this should give the TT that little extra stability that I need...Thanks!
__________________
George
2001 Suburban 1500 4x4
2006 Jayco Jayflight 31 BHS
Fair winds and happy trails...
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