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Old 04-23-2017, 12:28 PM   #1
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Door locks

The locks on my Whitehawk are starting to be erratic as to whether they work or not. I am interested in a battery operated keyless system. Anyone used any lately for travel trailers that they particularly liked?
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Old 04-24-2017, 05:50 AM   #2
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Try to lubricate the locks. It will make a huge difference
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Old 04-24-2017, 06:08 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Donedroolin View Post
Try to lubricate the locks. It will make a huge difference
Lubing them will help but don't get out your WD-40 or other oil based lubricants that a lot of time people use on them. You want to use a dry lubricant like graphite. There are spray versions if you don't want to mess with the powder which is a mess. The spray cans of lock lube use alcohol to carry the powder into the lock and then will evaporate out.

If you use oil based lubricant it will gum things up eventually.

As far as the OP.

Personally I am not a huge fan of the electronic ones. The issue is that like with a lot of car doors now, everyone gets used to using the key pad or key fob and never use an actual key on the lock. That is fine as long as a battery never goes dead. If you never exercise your lock, it will start sticking. Look at the one you have now that is sticking and you are using it. What are you going to do when you lock up your camper for the season and come back in the spring to a dead battery. It is one thing if your camper has more than one access door so it doubles that odds that a lock might work but I wouldn't personally trust one. They are not powered from the main battery on the camper. They rely on a couple AA, AAA or 9V battery in the door mechanism and the ones I have seen there is no access from the outside.
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:52 AM   #4
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I have been somewhat frequently using silicone spray on the locks.
Initially I blamed the difficulty on the fact that I had had several copies of the originals made and thought maybe the originals had been shaved a bit or something but now, I've actually bent both originals just a tad trying to open the door. There's no "rhyme or reason" to when they open and don't without working at them so I no longer lock them when I leave the dog inside. So I think I'd just like to replace them and start out with new keys, etc.

I have had combination locks on my vehicles and house several times and have really liked them. (Your comment though made me remember that it's been a long time since I've used my key in my Expedition so I'd better do it!) On the TT, my concern is just that it fits the slot. Below is an example of one I looked at
https://www.amazon.com/Products-013-...+door+lock#Ask
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:37 PM   #5
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The best lock lubricant on the market I've found is Lockeze. Lowe's and Home Depot carry it.

Graphite in a quick evaporating vehicle. A squirt of that stuff and small, close-tolerance parts start moving very nicely for a bunch of months. Repeat at start and end of the season for stuff that lives outdoors.

My firm opinion is that anything dependent on a battery is unreliable. I DO NOT want to be getting soaked in the rain while a hatch's lock won't open because of a low battery.
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:50 PM   #6
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Dielectric grease.
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaneta View Post
I have been somewhat frequently using silicone spray on the locks.
Initially I blamed the difficulty on the fact that I had had several copies of the originals made and thought maybe the originals had been shaved a bit or something but now, I've actually bent both originals just a tad trying to open the door. There's no "rhyme or reason" to when they open and don't without working at them so I no longer lock them when I leave the dog inside. So I think I'd just like to replace them and start out with new keys, etc.

I have had combination locks on my vehicles and house several times and have really liked them. (Your comment though made me remember that it's been a long time since I've used my key in my Expedition so I'd better do it!) On the TT, my concern is just that it fits the slot. Below is an example of one I looked at
https://www.amazon.com/Products-013-...+door+lock#Ask
I have never replaced a latch on an RV but they relatively a uniform size so odds are it would work if you wanted to go that route. The key pad area is a bit bigger than what is there but it likely sits on the outside skin of the door.

RVs typically use a lock cylinder type called a wafer tumbler lock. Most houses use a pin and tumbler style. The tolerances in the wafer style are greater so normally you don't see them getting stuck as often. You said there was no rhyme or reason to when they open and don't. Odds are there is a wafer that is sticking. That is the nice thing about the graphite solution that was mentioned. The alcohol can help flush out any lube that might have been used before. If you have a lock that isn't opening, insert and remove the key a few times. Repeated motion of the wafers might unstick the one that is likely hanging. There isn't much to these lock cylinders but they do get gummed up, springs can get weak where they can't push down all the way on the wafer or keep it in line with the position that the key is calling for and you can't turn it. It was already mentioned but I also use Lock-Ease. A word of caution on this. It will make a mess as you spray it into a lock. It will shoot out and run down the inside.

You could go with a complete latch replacement or just replace the cylinder. Normally to get the wafer locks out there is a replacement blank but I am not 100% certain with the RV style. I just haven't done it.

While I am not a locksmith, I am professionally trained in Lock Forensics. Basically picking locks, disassembling them and analyzing them under a microscope and determine how they were defeated.

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Originally Posted by TWP723 View Post
Dielectric grease.
Locksmiths will love you for that. I use dielectric grease on a lot of stuff. Locks isn't one of them. Any grease or oil based lubricant will pick up dust and dirt which cause them to gum up over time. You want a dry lubricant or one that dries in the case of a graphite in an alcohol or other solution that evaporates out.
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:50 PM   #8
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I've used dielectric grease for years and have never had a problem with it gumming. As a matter of fact, FoMoCo recommends it for their latches and cylinders.
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Old 04-24-2017, 04:34 PM   #9
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Remove it & clean it out. They have 4 screws on the inner face & the 2 on the lock bolt side. I wouldn't waste my $$ on an expensive lock system. They are only as secure as the door that holds them in. I realized this when I removed mine for a problem. The lock sandwiches the door which (in my unit) is a thin fiberglass veneer over a Styrofoam core. You could probably punch your way in if you wanted IMO. Just don't keep valuables inside & carry insurance.
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Old 04-24-2017, 04:44 PM   #10
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I use a product called Houdini. Used by professional locksmiths to free up and lube lock cylinders. I had a fuel access door look that was frozen. Shooting Houdini into the lock, letting it sit for a minute or so, and then using the key. Lock freed up. And I use it every time any lock seems to be getting stiff.

Might want to check it out.
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Old 04-24-2017, 06:16 PM   #11
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Another one for Lockeze, used it on the padlocks on my outside shed and it really freed them up.
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Old 04-25-2017, 04:50 PM   #12
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Wow, some knowledgeable folks here. Thanks all! Just because I happened to be in a hardware store today, I picked up what they had....a "powdered graphite lubricant". He said it would "squirt" into the lock so I'll try that.
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